I am currently using the Bachmann Block Signals (Part #42101) and removing the green/red plastic lenses and replacing them with green and red LEDs. I first strip down the signals, removing the lenses and ladder.
I carefully ream out the lens openings to accept the LEDs. I common together the longer of the two leads from both the LEDs and solder a short
piece of thin white wire to the common lead. (Radio Shack sells small spools
of blue, white and red circuit board wre that works very well) I then solder
a piece of blue wire to the Green LED and a piece of Red wire to the Red LED. Once the wires are all soldered to the LEDS, I cut off the excess LED leads and paint the backs of the LEDs with black paint. (this hides the LED light from glowing out the back of the signal. When the paint is dry, I drill a small hole in the signal's base, between the signal shaft and the ladder support holes, and cut a small piece of heat shrink tubing to fit between
the base and the signal head. This tubing will help hide the signal wires.
Once you reinstall the ladder, you won't see the wires inside the heat shrink. Connect a 1000 ohm resistor (1k ohm) to the end of the white wire.
This will limit the current to both LEDs. With a C or D sized battery, connect
the white lead and the green lead to the battery terminals to test the LED.
(If the LED does not light, swap the wires to the battery and the green LED
should light.) I am using a 5 vdc regulated power supply to power all my signals that are controlled by Block Relays. (Yes, I am running DC not DCC)

Seanu

1. Yes, the 2-10-0 will run on 18" radius, but it would look and run better
      on 22" radius or greater.

2. Shorting problem involves the wheel pick-up wiper rails located under
      the plastic box that secures the driver wheels. The "rails" tend to
      spring up and make contact with the loco's frame, causing a short
      circuit.

3. Don't Know


4. Follow the Bachmann Break-in instructions included with locomotive, or
     run the locomotive (without load-no cars) at various speeds in both
     directions for about a half hour before adding any cars behind the loco.

     

Hold the locomotive upright over workbench and carefully pull outward at the center of the loco sidesand the frame should drop down and out.

                                                                                           Ducky01

This is from a previous thread concerning the shorting problem with the
Bachmann 2-10-0 Decapod. I have two of them, both undecorated.
The first unit has run flawlessly since it's purchase. The second one
developed the shorting problem only after a few hours of operation.
I isolated the "short" to the locomotive by unpluging the two connector
plug (red and black wires) that connects the loco and the tender. This
is the rail pick-up from both sides of the wheels. It is also the same
feed from the wheel "wipers", or track pick-up via the wheels. There
are two pick-up rails that are attached to the bottom cover. Inside this
cover, the red and black wires attach to the pick-up rails via solder. These
solder joints are what are causing your loco to short out. As an Electronic
Technician, I was able to resolder the connections, with less solder, as well
as file down the connection so it would not short out against the loco's
frame. Add a small, thin piece of electrical tape over the solder connections
and carefully reinstall the cover plate (aligning the wiper "fingers" as you go) and you should be able to run the loco without it "shorting out"

I have three trolley loops on my layout. The two outside loops (18" and 15"
Radius) are powered by live overhead wire. (Bowser Overhead Wire Kit)
The inside loop follows the roadway and turns around via an eight inch
loop in the street. Most of my Bachmann HO PCC Trolleys's have been
remotored using Bowser's new can motor and underframe kit that has
been further modified so it will traverse the 8" loop without problems. The
Christmas Trolley I just purchased runs fine over the 18" & 15" radius but
derails on the 8" Loop, do to the fact that the truck sides hit the body shell
as it turns sharply. This car will most likely be remotored and it's original
geared truck used to repower one of my kitbash projects.

Just purchased a Bachmann Brill Trolley at the Timonium, MD Train Show
to find that it has a newer can motor powered underframe. It runs very
well, and quiet. Is this can motored truck also available is the newest release of Bachmann's PCC Trolley??

                                                                                            Ducky01