I have a DCC ready Vandy tender and a few of the ten wires that go to the engine have broken off the board. Where can I find a diagram that will identify where these wires are soldered to the board? Thanks.
Richard

Has anyone tried this product? It is supposed to add traction like rubber tires do on drive wheels. I'm leary about it. How would you go about applying an even coat on the wheels? I haven't been able to find out much about it. Thanks for any info or experiences you can share, as I have several steamers that could use something like this.
Richard in VT

Wow, that was my problem too!. Thanks for the tip. If I hadn't read your post, I wouldn't have thought to check this out. My engine ran fine on DC but when I installed a DCC decoder it promptly burned "them" out. I was all set to buy a new set of drivers because I was getting a short indication between the chassis and one of the drivers.

When I removed the bottom cover plate that holds the drive wheels in place, I discovered that the little brass electrical strips were bowed out to where they were touching the axle of the middle driver, thereby causing the short. What I did to correct this was to super glue them back to the plate. If that doesn't hold then I will figure out something else. For now, it has fixed the problem. Many thanks for your post. I suspect that there may be many more engines out there with this problem.
Richard

Yes, this would be a DC loco. Since it is new, call the factory and see about sending it back. If sending it back is not an option, take it apart. It may be something simple. This can be a learning experience for you. 

Sounds to me as though this engine is not getting power to the motor. You can more than likely confirm this by whether or not the headlight shines or not.

Since you didn't mention whether this is a new or old loco, my advise would be to send it back to the factory if it is new or remove the shell if it is old and have a look around. If you know how to use an ohm/volt meter, start with the wheels and work back to the motor, checking continuity as you go.
If everything checks OK, try putting some power on the motor and see if it runs. Here's a WARNING: If this is a DCC loco and you don't know your way around, then you better get help from someone knowledgeable or you will most likely damage it worse than it is now. Hope this helps.
Richard

To the Bach-Man:
I've owned this engine for a couple of years and have had a lot of trouble with it. The first problem was a bad motor and it worked good after putting in a replacement motor. The second go-round was much more involved when I decided to install a Tsunami decoder.

The first decoder burned out so I put in a second one, thinking it was just a bad decoder. Wrong! The second one burned out also. This time I got out my ohm meter and found that I had continuity between the motor and track which should not happen with DCC.

The next step was to dis-assembly the engine and find the short. What I found was an intermittent short between the chassis and the left center drive wheel tire. The short only happens when I wiggle the driver.

Is it possible for a drive wheel to short out? and is it possible to get only this part? I do not want to send this engine back to the factory because I have detailed it and lettered it special and don't want to take any chances of not getting it back. Your comments will be appreciated. Many thanks.
Richard