Thanks to everyone for your inputs.

It sounds like buying something site unseen, in this case a Bachmann 2-8-0, means you don't know what you're going to get until you actually receive it.  Many product descriptions these days, including the Bachmann 2-8-0, are pretty generic and vague and leave out a lot of the details that we model railroader consumers would normally use to base our purchasing decisions.  In the case of the 2-8-0,  the unknown production changes, the numerous versions that may be on store shelves, and the lack of a full detailed description of the current advertised product leaves me doubtful if I'll make a purchase of this product any time soon.

Thanks again for your help,
Rod   

Thanks for the inputs so far.

Rich, I checked HO Seeker and all of the 2-8-0 diagrams are for Spectrum and earlier models.  The 2-8-0 I'm referring to are the new DCC Equipped models first introduced in Bachmann's 2012 catalog item #51307 thru #51313.  I'm not looking at any particular one because I'll have to change the road name and number to match my branch line.

Joe, is your 2-8-0 one of the above item numbers?  If so, you pretty much answered my questions about converting it to sound, and all I'll have to do is determine which one will be easier to rename and renumber.

Thanks again,
Rod

Hello to all,
Does anybody out there have any experience or know anything about Bachmann's new DCC equipped  2-8-0 Consolidation (not the Spectrum version)?  I've searched the Bachmann site for a parts diagram and found nothing.  I've searched the web for any reviews of this locomotive and again found nothing.
I would like to add a 2-8-0 to my roster of Bachmann steam and diesel locos which are now all DCC and sound equipped.  I'm trying to determine if this 2-8-0 can be readily converted to DCC with sound?  For example, does the tender have a molded in speaker mount, does the light board support a plug-and-play type NMRA socket, is there enough room in the tender for the addition of the sound electronics, and so on?
Also, any info on the performance or running characteristics of this loco would be helpfull.  This engine seems to be pretty well detailed from the on-line pictures I've seen of it. 
For Mr. Bachmann, is there any chance that the new DCC Equipped 2-8-0 parts diagram is the same as the DCC Ready Spectrum 2-8-0?
Thanks to all in advance for any info and help.
Rod in PA   

Also, place a heat sink on each side of the solder joint.  This will help prevent the plastic ties from melting.
Rod in PA

Try converting to "3GP" format for both Kindles; worked for me.  Can't type to well, just had back surgery, sorry.  Rod in PA.

Hi UP 844,
Check out this SoundTraxx web page, it's very informative.

www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/soldering%20guide.pdf

Good Luck,
Rod in PA

Concur.  A painted, undecorated, 2-8-0 would be great.  Many were used by small branch lines, such as the Bellefonte Central RR, which is part of my HO layout.  I've been looking for an undecorated DCC/Sound version of this loco for some time.  I would purchase a Bachmann Spectrum version of this loco in a heart beat, as my entire roster is currently Bachmann.
Happy holidays to all,
Rod in PA

Hi Bob,
After I made the initial post, I checked Bachmann's on-line parts catalog again.  It appears they recently added allot of new parts for the 4-6-2.  One of the parts was the tender PCB which included the connector set I was looking for.  Basically, I had to order the next higher assembly but it's in the mail; problem solved.  I kept the service managers phone number (thanks to the Bach-mann) just in case I need it in the future.
Rod in PA

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Hi to all, including the Bach-Man.
I'm looking for a source to purchase a "connector set", Bachmann part #H84011.  It's the connector between the HO steam loco and tender of the Pennsy K4 (4-6-2) item #84011.  One of the wires that goes to the motor broke off inside of the female portion of the sealed connector.  I've called Bachmann customer service and left messages and sent emails but no one has responded to my request for assistance.
If anyone out there knows of a source for this part, I would forever be in your debt if you would share it with me.  Until then my Pennsy K4 will be out of service due to lack of parts.
Thanks to all and have a great day,
Rod in PA.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
The next time I get long winded explaining how I installed a sound decoder, I'll give them a try.
Have a good day.
Rod

Mr Bach-Man,

I noticed a problem when typing a long post.  Once the initial page is filled with text, the scroll button will appear to the right.  After typing about two more lines, the screen continually jumps back several lines as you type and you can't see what you are typing.

Am I not doing something correct when typing a lengthy post?  Or is there a software problem within the program?

Please help,
Rod in PA

I recently installed a SoundTraxx decoder in an HO Bachmann RS3 #64205.  It wasn't all that difficult, just took some patience.  The Soundtraxx decoder I used was a TSU AT-1000 (Alco 244) #828043 with an oval speaker #810112.  I also replaced the original yellow LEDs with 3mm bright whites.

I removed the Bachmann decoder and light board, disassembled the frame to where I could remove the motor, removed the two capacitors and replaced the motor wires following the NMRA color code scheme.  I covered the motor and leads with a piece of electrical tape to hold things in place and to prevent any shorts.  I then reassembled the frame, positioned the sound decoder over the motor between the two weights and attached it with double sided tape.  I then hard wired the decoder by first connecting the pickup and motor leads, and  then took it for a test run.  I taped the capacitor to the rear weight between the decoder and the rear LED.

Next, I installed the white LEDs using the factory mounts and a 680 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor in series with each LED.  I used black electrical tape to shield the front LED from reflecting back into the cab.  Once the LEDs were in place I took it for another test run.

Next, where to install the speaker?  First, I was going to use the molded area in the fuel tank which is big enough for a 1/2" speaker.  Then, I remembered seeing a speaker installation for an Atlas RS3 on the SoundTraxx website.  It involved removing the cab and cutting away part of the shell, but would allow the use of a larger speaker.  The roof of the cab actually becomes the baffle for the speaker and works great.

I am extremely pleased with the outcome of this project and the quality of SoundTraxx's products.  If you have any further questions, don't heistate to ask.

Good luck,
Rod in PA   

 Hi,
I recently installed a Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder in my HO DCC equipped Pennsy K4 and it really sounds great.  This was my first sound installation job.  I was a little overwhelmed at first but with a bit of planning everything turned out fine.  Do a search for this thread, "Sound for 84102 4-6-2", it has the step by step procedures I used to complete the installation.  If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Good Luck,
Rod

Here is how I installed the Soundtraxx decoder in my DCC ready HO Bachmann K4:

These are the Soundtraxx parts I used: TSU-1000 decoder #826102, 1" speaker #810054, Baffle kit #810110, 1" speaker gasket #810119, and 8 pin connector #810123.

Remove the tender from the loco and then remove the shell from the tender.

Do a continuity check on the 8 pin socket of the PCB as suggested in the Installation Guide.

Remove the front weight, file 1/16" off of the top, left side to make room for the decoder.

Shorten all the black wires in the bottom of the tender.  Unsolder one wire at a time, cut off about 1 1/2", tin the end and resolder.  FYI:  Untangle the wires as you go and be careful not to create any connections between the solder pads, such as fared wires or excess solder.

Solder an 8 pin connector to the decoder, being sure to match the color code of the wires as instructed in the guide.  I removed about half the length of these wires to save a little room.

Next, install the speaker:  thread the speaker wires through the baffle top and only one section of the baffle enclosure, and solder the wires to the speaker.  Place a gasket in the bottom of the speaker mounting area, install the speaker, attach the baffle enclosure to the speaker using clear RTV and the cover to the top of the baffle using RTV.  Allow the RTV to set up over night.

Plug the decoder into the light board socket, replace the front weight and file down the screw post flush with the weight if needed (do not replace the screw), you're ready to stuff everything inside the tender.

I placed the decoder above the filed portion of the weight resting against the coal load and the screw post at an angle.  The capacitor will fit in the same area above the speaker.  Route the decoder wires to the rear of the tender above the light board and replace the tender shell.  Be careful not to pinch any of the wires between the screw posts.  Reconnect the tender and the loco and you're ready for the test track.

With my initial test, the volume was extremely loud.  I've adjusted numerous CVs to get things to my satisfaction, it's not hard to do, just follow the Technical Reference Manual.

Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Rod