James, I finally see what you are getting at.  Obviously I didn't note the position, mine was at 9-3.  The switch moved throughout its range, but I've now got them at the 1-6:30 positions.  I won't be able to test it until later tomorrow, but now that I know what I'm looking for, I'll simply keep moving it a tooth or so at a time until I get it working right.  thanks for sticking with me on this.

James, no problem with the public response at all, just wanted to make things easy for you.  I'll take a look at it later today and see what I can do.  This does happen to be one of my non-powered turnouts and I'm in the process of getting power to it.  It was also a turnout that didn't throw all the way when I got it, so I managed to get that working, but possibly didn't adjust things quite right, basically just put them back together, the lever had fallen off.  I'll try adding power first to see if I really need to do any adjusting.  Thanks for the help.

Edit: Guess I need to do some closer checking, powering the unit didn't help.  I took it out and ran through the checks. but still have the same problem.  I'll go through it again when I have more time.  It's really pretty straightforward and not really much there to adjust.  If push comes to shove, I'll just move the location closer to me where I can keep an eye on it.  Might have to temporarily glue it in place, all the track is just laying loose for now.

Can I make my own with standard terminals and wire from Radio Shack or are the 10' wires Bachmann sellls the better option?  I'd need more than one of each, preferrably in different lengths.  I get the feeling I should simply cut the wires and revert to standard wiring techniques splicing the connectors back on where I need to.

So many of these questions seem stupid to me, but I want to know how to do things right with E-Z Track before I start snipping connectors off wires.  The wire for the terminal/rerailer that came with the Empire Builder Set has 2 connectors, one flat to fit the track slot and one earphone-type to fit the controller slot.  However, the wire that came with the straight terminal/rerailer I purchased separately came with the same flat connector, but no earphone-type connector.  In its place are 2 standard electrical connectors, the same that come with the red red wire for the turnout remotes.

My questions are:

- how do I connect these type of connectors to the controller?
- do I splice it to the other wire with the earphone-type connector?  The instructions for using 2 turnouts for a crossover seem to suggest this approach, but the diagram leaves a lot to be desired.
- do I cut enough wire off the earphone-type connector leaving enough to run to a splicing board of some sort where I can add more terminal tracks?
- or do I need a separate power pack with standard screw terminals on it?
- will the standard controller even support multiple terminal tracks?  If so, how many?

James, I sent you a PM about one of your posts that seems to have solved the same problem for someone else.

Quote from: Albert in N on January 06, 2011, 09:39:35 PMBefore getting more track or building your layout, decide desired performance............... On the other hand, if you want to run trains on a simple layout without involved operation, EZ track is great.  Be warned that while EZ track turnouts come with controllers, Kato has these at extra cost.

Thanks for the comments.  I'm using XTrakCAD with the E-Z Track parameter to design my layouts, so I'm fairly confident they will connect using E-Z Track.  However, that doesn't mean I don't have some concerns about long term operation.

I'm not big on switching operations, so even though I plan some sidings, yard, etc., they are more for scenery than operation.  I see them only as a place to stop or run through without actually doing anything there.  I back into a siding, pretend to drop off/pick up, and move out again.  I go through the yard and simply change to a different train coming out or swap locos to make it look like I reconfigured the consist.

But, I also think that might change in the future and that's why I'm concerned about putting too much faith in E-Z Track.  If I decide I want to operate more realistically, I don't want E-Z Track to be a show-stopper or end up requiring a lot more expense.  The goal is to design a layout that will satisfy both the short-term running operation and potential long-term switching operations.

Quote from: ACY on January 06, 2011, 08:23:50 PM
Bachmann turnouts are power routing, so only one route gets power, depending on your layout and what you want to do, you may need to supply power to one or both of the routes.

I undestand that and also what power blocks are.  I'm new to E-Z Track though and just didn't know why it didn't work at first.  But it works fine now, so that part is okay.  I guess I'll take the offending switch apart tomorrow and see why it's not holding the setting like the others do.  I'm still trying to decide if I want to stay with E-Z Track or move on the something else before I get too much money tied up.

Quote from: ACY on January 06, 2011, 08:16:39 PM
Be aware it may take longer than usual, because everyone else is sending their locos in too, I sent a loco in last December and did not get it back until late February.

That's okay, not concerned about time.

I bought 2 left and 2 right switches hoping to set up a test layout with 2 through sidings.  Got it all put together and as soon as I flip the left switch on one of the sidings, the train stops.  Tried the other siding, same thing.  I asked a question in another forum, but I must have phrased it wrong because they told me a needed gaps and a 2nd power connection.  I then happened to see a set with a siding and asked the guy at the hobby shop if there was any special wiring needed,  He said "No", so I started fiddling.

I finally found I need to flip the other switch first and it all works, sort of, it only works intermittently.  So I took the back off and saw a bunch of wires that looked like strays coming off the electromagnet.  They were all attached, so that wasn't the problem.  Tried it again, no luck.  Took another switch apart and they looked pretty much the same.  I did see a red wire that looked like a problem, so I changed its position a bit.  Got it all back together and it all works, except for one that doesn't seem to want to stay set.  As the train passes over, it moves about 1/16th of an inch or less each pass and eventually moves enough to cause a derailment.  Is there anything simple I can do to make it stay in place?  I haven't looked at it yet, so i might be able to figure something out, but I wanted to ask first.

BTW, I know I can wired the switch remotes together to flip both switcheds at the same time, but just haven't gotten that far.

Loco is on its way to Philly via USPS Priority mail.  We'll see what they say and how long it takes.  Everyone has nothing but good things to say about Bachmann service, so I'm hopeful the results will be positive and in my favor.

Quote from: ACY on January 04, 2011, 07:14:03 PM
Good to hear you got through quickly!

Thanks, I just took a chance that the holiday phone traffic might be heavy this week and maybe I'd luck out with email.  My guess is the response would have been the same on the phone, "send it in", so I just avoided wait time and phone tag.

Quote from: ACY on January 04, 2011, 01:01:47 AMThat often takes longer than if you were to call.

Had an email in my inbox this morning from Laura saying to just send it in and they'll take care of it.  I guess I'll do that tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks.  I decided to submit a service request form instead of fighting the phones after the holidays.

I don't know if this translated link will work or not.  If not, just run the original link through Google Translate.

http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://www.1zu160.net/digital/einbaubsp/bachmann-gp50.php&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&twu=1&usg=ALkJrhh69GAEu5Xn4HO8Np8EDRCi08__4w

Quote from: ACY on January 02, 2011, 02:06:38 PMThis was not the best choice for a set for a 4 year old, furthermore turning the dial up all the way before a locomotive is properly broken in, can cause issues down the road. To break in a loco properly, run it at a medium speed in both directions, switching directions every 15 or 20 minutes. After I properly broke in the loco in the set, it ran great. The key to a good running loco is keeping everything clean, well lubed and have it broken in before any running. Once you over-lube a loco, which is very easy to do, then it is 10 times worse than doing nothing at all. Without seeing your loco in person and what is going on exactly I cannot give any specific advice.

Jeez, not so much for her to run on her own, or even very often, mostly just to watch.    

The main point is it's BRAND NEW and I did break it in according to instructions before any other running.  I'm not new to N-scale, though it has been 30+ years.  FWIW, I calculated the cost and at best I'm out $25, at worst less than $50 (it sells for $58 on Amazon).  From what others have said it would cost about $20 to send it to Bachmann, just not worth the hassle.