Bachmann is the any plans to do HOn30 like what you did with On30?

thanks RGW

I have build some HOn30 locomotives one of these is a 2-8-0 using the mech from a N scale bachmann 2-8-0 and tender.The boiler is from a n scale Atlas 0-8-0 the tender shell and cab are from a old time Riv HO scale 2-4-0.I glued the HO tender shell over the Bachmann spectrum shell so I can disassemble it.Since Bachmann's sucess with On30 is there any plan at Bachmann for producing HOn30 because it runs on N scale track?

My wire had broke and some frayed I had disasemble the engine for some painting and it is necesary to pull the wires.I replace all 6 wire with some very flexable and thin hobby wires.

    The Bachmann   is there a replacment wire harness the connects 6 wires between the engine and tender for the 4-8-4 J maybe from some of the newer DCC engines,the varnish coated wire on the Js are very fragile and I need to replace them but would like a better wire to use. It is a lot of work solder new wires in those tiny and close connections. 

Thanks RGW

The new J is a major inprovment over the old J. I believe you would be happy with it.Keep checking  Feebay,I got a new one for $ 57.00 including shipping,it did take work there was a group for sale I missed the 1st two but got the third also paid less than the 1st two also. 

thanks for the info,next time I will try wet towel methed with My decals

RGW

I have always thought that decals would not sick to dull surfaces,however your model looks good.Will this work with bare plastic also or is a coating need in this case? 

I just tryed the same with the bachmann J, the problem was that it needed a gloss coat for the decals to draw into.My decals feel off with little pressure.After a gloss coat they adhere great.

I have the same problem.I have replaced the trucks on many older cars with MT trucks they roll better than many older ones.You can also replace rapidos with dummy Knuckle couplers.I used some Bachmann 's,but I filed down the sides so they did not look so big.Another possibility is the old Intermountion trucks they are dummys also,but couple and uncouple nice,however they seemed to derail often so I replaced the wheels with Mts they seem to roll well. Only some ideas

RGW   

I have had success using powered Ajax ,comet .I mix up some with water then rub the
lettering with a blunt toothpick or chopstick.It worked on a Walthers Y3 but left a slight haze,not too bad. I also removed the N&W from the Bachmann J,it worked good and left the red stripe under it in good shape.

Only my 2 cents  RGW

I think I will try just removing the lettering.I plan on covering N&W orange with Milw
orange and adding some milw passenger gray striping down the sides.I need to think
a little longer on the exact colors.I sorta like the SP G4s color design but with Milw
colors and a Hiawatha on the tender  side and Milwaukee road streamliner emblem on the front,However I do not know if it will fit the J's nose.   

I make a paste with commet then scrub the lettering with soft stick.
I have only used this on letter now that I think of it.Does leave a mark however.
If I can remove only the lettering this would be fine.I am only painting
stripping on the engine,I am making a Hiawatha J .Milw bought one cheap in
1959 and used it on special events ( at least thats my story). As for being careful
with details,well a streamlined metal shell that should not be a probleam.

I am going to custom paint the N&W J,But I would like to remove
the orange stripe on the side of the engine and tender but not remove the
black. Any ideas I have used commet and a toothpick,however i have never removed bachmann paint.

By the way a great locomtive

Thanks RGW      

They are a little bigger that other knuckle couplers but they seem to work well
and couple fine with Mts. I don't use magnetic uncoupling so I can't coment
on that.

The problem is many trucks and body mounted couplers(Example caboose)
need a T shank coupler and this is not offered by Bachmann yet. I hope in the
future this will change.