More diesel info: The main reservoir for the cooling is usually on the front of the prime mover (the actual diesel engine), very near the radiators. We often warm our meals by placing them on the flat shelf formed by the air flow plates and the tank. Hot pizza anyone?!! An interesting bit of info... most engines, at least on larger lines, us no antifreeze... just rust inhibitor. That's why you  often see unoccupied engines idling in winter. With CSX, we were instructed to leave the engines running if the temperature was 40 degrees or below, or if it was forecast to drop below 40. Some engines actually have valves that open and drain the engine at low temperature rather than risk freezing the block (expensive with a capital E!!). The justification I was given for no antifreeze was protection of the environment.- Mike S.

Sanding is just as necessary for a diesel as for a steamer. If you look at the top of the hood on most diesels, you will see a short 6" diameter pipe with cover near the end. Sand  is added there regularly. Sand is applied by pushing a button on the control stand. It flows onto the rail through pipes that end just in front of/behind the wheels. Modern diesels have automatic sanding, applied whenever wheel slip is detected. Typically, when you pull up to a string of cars where you suspect you might have a little trouble getting a good start, you "lay down a little sand" as you pull up to the cars. It really makes a difference in the available traction.- Mike S.

Domdad- A few further thoughts... You might want to purchase a power controller that has a momentum feature that makes for gentle acceleration and deceleration. Also, the multiple track connections is a good idea. For most three year olds, the idea of setting a maximum speed on the controller and then placing the controller in an access-restricted box with a simple on-off switch would substitute well for a remote control. However, with my kids, when they were young, I just placed a small strutcure near the track and/or placed a small semi-stable container on one of the cars. We then made a game out of stopping and starting smoothly enough to prevent spillage... and stopping and starting right at the structure. I can honestly say that we never had problems with high speed derailments. In fact, when any of their friends tried to run the trains in a rough manner, my children chose to not invite them back to play with the trains. Happy railroading- Mike S.

One more thing... the windows don't necessarily have to be below the track. One unit I put up had bridges across the upper part of the windows. The trains looked great passing by in front of the windows, both from inside and out!- Mike S.

The elevated train is a great idea. I have built and installed systems for a couple of families. Large scale works well, and so does O scale. The Bachmann large scale track works fine indoors. Something I would recommend you look into is remote control. Others on the forum can probably recommend manufacturers. The O scale unit I put up was an MTH with remote control throttle built in. It worked well, but a throttle speed limiter would have been nice. With the Bachmann large scale, I doubt that the speed limiter would be an issue. One thing you might want to look into is wider radius track. The 4' diameter (2' radius) Bachmann track might limit your future equipment options (but it is fine for the set trains). Also, I built a guard rail all of the way around the inside of the overhead loop using 1/4" pegs with HO scale rail threaded through the top ends of the pegs. The pegs were pressed into holes on the wooden sub road bed. That way, any derailment didn't have to end in catastrophe for either train or operator! If you'd like more info, feel free to contact me off line. ENjoy the trains!- Mike S.

What can anyone tell me about the value/ resale value of the decoder and/or the sound units that will come in the HO engines? I have no need for, and therefore no intention of spending extra money for, un-needed extras. However, if I could recoupe some of my "extra" money, I might be willing to buy a couple of the new offerings. Thanks in advance for any guidance you might offer. - Mike S.

A  little "for what it is worth" information- In the 1:1 railroading world, with many covered hoppers, there is a restriction on running the cars at a sustained speed of something like 13 to 21 mph (I don't remember the exact speed). it seems that in that speed range, a harmonic is set up which can cause rocking to the point of derailment. ... talk about "art imitating life"!- MikeS.

Are you asking number of trains, or number of individual units (cars, engines, ...)?- Mike

Congrats, Gene! Hope that's the first step to many more. I can hardly wait to see similar action around here.- Mike S.

Just a quick point of clarification... possibly a little off subject. In engine school, we were taught that the braking action decreases as the speed of the locomotive drops below a certain speed. In fact, I have never had a loco "reverse" on me while in dynamics. As the train slows, you can really feel the braking ... but as you come to a stop, you need to apply more air to hold it. However, if you leave it in dynamics as you continue to roll (perhaps as you approach a slight increase in grade) then the dynamic braking force will again increase as the train begins to increase speed. Sometime a little "this is how it works in practice" info helps in understanding theory.- Mike S.

Gene- At the Virginia university I attended, we used to say, "Welcome to xxxxx, one hundred years of tradition unmarred by progress."- MS

The Bachmann dummies that I have seen came in Bachmann sets which had an F7A powered with an F7B unpowered and cars, track and transformer. To power one of the B units, it would be cheaper to buy an A unit off eBay and change the covers. They have been selling for only $10-$15 each. That would be hard to beat, pricewise.- Mike

Sheldon- I received the information. Thank you very much. It looks interesting!- Mike S.

Gene- just sent you and email regarding the locomotive drawings- Mike

Why not make a 12"  or so shelf layout with a piano hindge along the front edge. When you are finished running trains, just park them on the track on the shelf, and then you can fold the layout up. The only limitation is that the layout portion adjacent to the hindge has to be free of structures and anything higher than a low rail. When you open the shelf down, place a leg under each edge of the layout board (or the leg can be hindged to the bottom of the board). -Mike