There was a style of modeling some 30 years ago that centered around little prototype engines that had been greatly customized by their fantasy railroad owners. The new 4-4-0 is one of those nice little engines that  fits the starting point for one of those models.

While Lee and the staff are saying there is not a prototype for this little guy, it is close to the size of the initial 4-4-0s used in the great narrow gauge expansion of the 1870s. The Texas and St Louis had a number of 4-4-0s this size. when the line was standard gauged, many went to small carriers second hand. The ywere good for 5,000 pounds of tractive force, about seven loaded cars in most cases. That makes them perfect for small On30 layouts. You might even want to make a four wheel tender for the locomotive.

Many more similar locomotives went to South America, one is still sitting in the jumgle in Brazil. This little gem is an opportunity for any of us in On30 to be creative.  I think Lee and the staff should have a contest at each place the Bachmann will appear to have the customers show off their versions.

I have two 2-10-4s with the correct tenders and converted to a PMD drive. i have one waiting for another drive. The PMD repower units are very nice, precision pieces and the units walk away with long consists. The only rub is that you have to make your own weights or bug Bowser for a set of 4-8-4 weights. Painted and weathered (slightly, many people have been fooled by the inexpensive plastic shell and thought these were Tenshodo or other brass imports.. Incindentally, I converted the tender for pickup and it works very well. Use Intermountain wheelsets.

Bowser also makes remotoring kits for the Bachmann Northerns and a few other models. All work very well and add to the pulling power of the locomotives.

On the Pacific, buy the superdetailing kit at the same time as the kit. This will greatly enhance the appearence over the cast zamac pieces normally supplied. I have a USRA 2-10-2 and while the detailing isn't as good as the Bachmann, it will easily outpull it. I have one with a Helix Humper conversion and it is smooth.

I had catenary on my outdoor line in California. I made the wire myself from 1/16 brass wire on a home made jig. I used 1/4 inch dowel to make the supports. Very easy and not too expensive as I modeled the catenary after the Milwaukee Road in Montana. Simple yet very reliable I still have the jigand some unused pieces.

For the Atlas 9" turntable, the Bachman 4-4-0, 4-6-0 (low driver) Consolidation, and the non-spectrum 4-4-0, 2-6-2, 060 will fit as well as most diesels. Mantua 2-6-6-2 T, 0-6-0, 2-6-2 and 0-4-0 fit easily. Most smaller steam locomotives will fit.  Medium sized and larger do not.

I have a shelf layout in my train room so I can operate during bad weather. I use LGB #16000 curved track for my single track line.

I built the shelf from shelving planks from Home Depot mounted on wooden shelf supports attached to each stud in the wall. You could easily go every other stud but you will need a stringer to prevent sagging. The shelf material I used was eight incehs. You will need to use the twelve inch planks. For the corner I used plywood sections made to mate with the plankes . You cpuld curve these if you like but you will need a central support. I did a 14' x 24' room for just under $200.

I would space my track on the stright on a six inch center.

If you have a larger locomotive (K-27, K-28, etc) use the Freswater Models Sellers. Prototypes like it were used by the Colorado and Southern at Como and Leadville. At 15 inches in length, the bigger locomoptives are a cinch.

If you are using an HO turntable, the best deal going is the Walthers 120' HO turntable but the deck must be modified for the width of the )n30 locomotioves. The smaller 90' will also work. Note that these are built-up and have built in motors and indexing, not the same as the Cornerstone which can be made to work well as an armstrong type.

The Freshwater may be motorized, call them for details.

Try Freshwater models for their Sellers Iron turntable. Almost fifteen inches long and quite a few went to Australia and are still in use or exist. It is also a kit and is $95US. A little more expensive but very nice. Contact me and I can send pictures.

Even though I am an SP fan, I would like to see another Boston and Maine Pacific similar to the one Athearn put out in 1960 or so. That is one very good looking locomotive. I have a pair of those oldies and they run well but are not made  in a conventional manner. Those were Lima built in the late 30s. A nice generic mechanisim with some specialized superstructures could be very viable, much like the 4-8-4s Bachmann offers.

Just my $0.02 this evening.

J. Pasha

Kevin, I have to agree with you. An EBT Mike would be nice. Then again, a slight variation to match a White Pass and Yukon Mike would be nice as well. Everyone else, these are big locomotives for 1:20.3.  Let's see, I need at least 20 hoppers for one of those plus one of those cabooses. Almost 1/3 of my loop outside.

The EBT ran like a small eastern mainline. Most narrow gauge fans are unaware of that. Now a nice version of M-3 would be nice to go with it.

While the Mt. Gretna locomotive was significant in a way, that probably will not be the prototype. The Baldwin catalog had a locomotive very similar to the Brazilian locomotive Hamish referenced. Excepting the outsized headlamp, the Brazilian locomotive is quite close in actual looks to the 1:20.3 4-4-0.

The Mt. Gretna locomotive was built in seven days by Samuel Valclain himself with a hand picked crew to meet the deadline to open the Mt. Gretna Railway on July Fourth. The master himself did the design from on hand parts and other pieces. The locomotive was exceptionally poweful for its size.

Lightening rods would depend on the railroad and if there was electrical equipment handy. If the tank was metal, probably in areas that had a chance for thunderstorms.

Most turn of the century tanks did not as they were wood. Look at pictures of the D&RGW narrow gauge tanks and you will get a good idea of what they had.

Depending on the tank, you could have a conical, Hex or octagon shaped roof, gabled or flat.  The conical roofs were actually segments if you look closely.

I have used some Plasticville tanks for parts and built my own tanks. Not very difficult if you examine the pieces. The only rub is that you need a downspout which Grandt offers in their catalog.

Jim Pasha

Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass.  While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.

EZ track isn't just for 4x8 layouts. Look in the on line catalog and you will find 33.24 inch radius and 36 inch radius track along with 3 foot sections. No flex, however but the iomplications are that you can use this sectional track on large layouts. I have some 36 inch radius on my test layout and it is dynamite stuff.

as for the turntable and such, there are many good products around.. A siuxe closer to 90 feet in diameter is more normal for the usual steam era locomotive.  The Union Pacific had problems with the Big Boy and had a special jack at the last axle on the tender so they could use a shorter turntable. At some locations they just used a wye. Them big locomotives were restricted to the mainilines.

EZ-track works very well, probably the best of the modular track, equal to Kato in most regards.  The on line catalog has everything listed.

As for those guys wanting 2" SECTIONS, FOR NOW, USE A dREMEL TO CUT DOWN A 3 INCH SECTION. nOT AS HARD AS YOU THINK.

I have about five years on my present layout using Woodland Scenics risers and all. Do not use foam roadbed. The stuff does not really work in holding the track in place. Use cork roadbed under the track and nail it. If you glue the track down, any maintenance will be a disaster.

If you use Bachmann track sections, the need for anchoring is less but still required. The normal heat/cooling cycles will cause displacement of the risers.  Whatevver you make the layout on should be stiff and pretty rigid to resist this tendency.

I have found a combination of plywood base with Woodland Scenics risers to be good with minimal problems once you have surfaced the top and then use cork for the roadbed. This is almost a necessity if you handlay track.

The best is to use plywood base with cork or homosote if you can find it.