Most aftermarket smoke units draw more mA's than a decoder function output can provide in continuous use.  Generally, function outputs are rated at 100 to 120 mAs.  While some decoder brands say their function output can support up to 200 mA or more, I see them fail eventually when used directly with smoke generator units.  A better approach is to install a micro relay switch between the decoder and the smoke unit.  ESU makes a good small/compact one.  Using a switch allows you to feed full track power to the smoke unit while using a decoder's low mA function to control the on/off function of the switch.  I've done this dozens of times for my DCC installation clients who request installation of smoke units.  One last caution about smoke units, you need to use an insulated type to prevent it from melting the plastic boiler shell and smoke stack.  Seuthe makes insulated types.  Even their uninsulated ones come with an insulating ring you can use to insulate the unit from the smoke stack.

Regards,

Tom

One of the problems with the current lighting is that it is not even throughout the car. There are bright spots and then dim areas.  Another issue is the lights tend to flicker with momentary losses of power as the car rolls down the track.  If you are OK with these items, you could insert a current limiting resistor to drop the DCC track voltage to the bulbs and prolong their life.  I'd suggest something in the 220 range.

If you want to go with a more even and non-flickering light, you can replace the current lighting with LEDs.  A couple manufacturers sell self adhesive LED lighting tape with a capacitor built into the circuitry.  This provides even light and eliminates the flicker.  One brand I've used is sold by Berrett Hill Trains.

For ultimate control, you can also add in a function only decoder to turn the lights on/off.  Both TCS and Digitrax offer function only decoders.

Tom

What are you attempting to accomplish?  That may help us determine what you need to do and how to go about doing it.

Bachmann is notorious for not following the NRMA DCC wire color code system with their wiring harnesses.  However, their circuit boards are usually very well marked at the wire attachment points using coding similar to that in your e-mail.  Using a multi-meter and their circuit board markings, I havesuccessfully developed wiring diagrams to help me with my projects.  For example, adding a DCC decoder to a loco that is not DCC ready or adding an extra function only decoder to control additional lighting functions.

Regards,

Tom

Mark,

Yes, you are stuck with the trial and error method unless you use DecoderPro and have if interfaced with your layout.

The only way to get the chuff rate in perfect synch with the wheel revolutions throughout the entire speed range is to install either a mechanical cam or an optical cam.  Grizzly Mountain Engineering offers mechanical axle cam kits.  SoundTraxx offers mechanical cams that mount to the back side of a drive wheel.

If you don't use a cam system, the best you can hope for is an approximate timing.  You will need to make a decision about how you plan to run the loco.  For example, will it run most of the time in low speed service or will it be run in high speed service.  Once that is determined, you will want to set the chuff rate to best match it.  For the most part, my locos run in low speed freight service, so I set the chuff rate to best match that.

Regards,

Tom

Did you check the eight of the tender coupler's trip pin?  If it is hanging down too low, it may be lifting the rear truck off the rails just as it crosses over the rail of the intersecting track.

Tom

From the condition you describe, I suspect you may have cracked axle gears on those wheelsets that are bouncing.  This can also cause excessive noise.  You don't say, but do you have one of the newer single motor units or one of the older models with a motor in each truck?  I've had cracked gears in both types.  The most recent replacements being sold by Bachmann finally appear to have corrected the problem.

Tom

I installed a Micro Tsunami with the Cummins Diesel sound set that was originally intended for use in a GE 44-tonner.  So, my Doodlebug represents one that had its gasoline motor replaced and upgraded with a Cummins diesel.  The decoder itself was mounted on the plastic "shelf" above the motor.  I placed a mini-oval speaker and enclosure in the passenger compartment near the bulkhead to the baggage area.  I had to trim the floor/seat insert slightly to make room for the speaker/enclosure.  I trimmed the first 3 rows of seats but retained the outer portion of them nearest the windows.  I disguised the speaker by placing seated passengers in the seats adjacent to it.  I also changed the headlight to use a brighter 0602 surface mount LED and added a working rear headlight.

Good luck,

Tom

In DCC, most smoke units draw more amps than decoder functions are rated for.  As such, I use an available DCC function to control a micro switch.  The micro switch then controls feeding track power to the smoke unit.  ESU has a very good and affordable micro switch.

I have mostly used Seuthe smoke units in customer locos when they've requested smoke.  In HO, most are rated at 12-16 volts.  A typical DCC system set to HO mode has 12-14 volts on the rails.  At that rating, they will not burn out unless you allow them to go dry.  The heating element burns out quickly if it runs out of oil.  That's why it is best to control it off an independent function.

If the decoder does not have a spare unused function available, it is usually not too difficult to install an auxiliary function only decoder.  TCS offers both two and 4 function decoders.  Good luck.

Tom

I have installed Tsunami TSU-1000 Medium Steam decoders in several of these locos.  If your model has a "sound ready" tender, you simply need to install a 1" round speaker in the existing floor opening.  If the loco is also DCC-equipped/or DCC ready, you can swap the Tsunami's existing wiring harness for a 8-pin to 9-pin JST replacement harness, or cut the wires from the existing Backmann decoder harness and rewire it to the Tsunami (matching wire color for color).

Tom

On the doodlebug and the coach the roof and windows are a single casting.  Turn the models over.  On the bottom, you will find 6 plastic tabs along the outer edges of the shells.  You need to disengage these tabs from the floor and then pull the roof/window casting up and off the floor and side casting.  I generally use a small screwdriver to disengage the tabs.  I do this one at a time and insert a small flat-sided tooth pick to keep it from locking back in place.  Once all the tabs are released, I begin to rock and wiggle the roof casting until it releases from the body.

I used a Micro Tsunami Cummins Diesel sound decoder in my unit.  It represents a doodlebug that was upgraded/re-motored by the railroad.  I also know of some folks who used a Micro Tsunami Galloping Goose sound decoder to add sound to their units.  ESU LOKsound is supposed to have a sound unit that usable for this purpose as well.

Regards,

Tom

Depending on how exacting you want to get, most 50 to 70 ton capacity freight cars used 33" wheels.  Freight cars with tonnage capacities above this used 36" wheels.  Most modern tank cars use 36" wheels.  Most piggyback flats use 28" wheels to provide a few extra inches of height clearance (note, this does not apply to modern double stack cars).  I believe some modern cars with tonnage ratings of 125 tons use 38" wheels.  These are, of course, simply general guidelines.  You will need to do more exact research on each specific car type if you want to get it correct for each car on your layout.

Good luck,

Tom

You can always purchase similar detail parts from other sources.  If you have a well stocked model railroad hobby shop near you, start there.  If not, go on-line to one of the major vendors or distributors.  Search for "HO toolboxes", HO logging tools, etc.

Tom

I'm just starting to work on one of these myself.  I'm using a .750 speaker.  The micro Tsunami will just fit (width wise in the water tank tender).  I've spliced the the decoder wires to a TCS 8-pin wiring harness allowing me to plug it into the socket in the Bachmann board.

Tom

First, you have to carefully pry the plastic fuel tank off the locomotive frame.  Once you do so, you will see 4 screws that hold the shell to the frame.  Remove the screws and "wiggle" the shell up off the frame.

Tom

Jim,

I don't use any jumpers to the point rails.  Parts of my layout have been operational since 2001 and all trackage was operational in 2008.  I'm still in the process of completing the installation of all the switch machines.  I have about 50 left to do and on a couple of turnouts still controlled by ground throws I will get an occasional stall.  However, on those that are thrown with PFM/Fugurex slow motion switch machines I don't have any issues.  The throw provides adequate tension on the points and I also use the auxiliary electrical contacts to power the frogs.

Tom