Ray:

Take your GB Pounds to that bank as quickly as possible. They are really paying a significant premium on the exchange!!  

The current exchange rate is 1 GB Pound = $2.04. That makes 99.95 GB Pounds worth ~$203.98.

The 79 Euros mentioned by 'pdlethbridge' converts to ~$108.84. Looks better to price it and buy it in Eruos than in GB Pounds.  

Those rates changes continually, but (usually) only by small amounts.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I don't know what your current power supply connections look like, and how far it is from the PS to the track, but here are some suggestions:

In the original responses, I recommended adding one or two extra feeders. From Paul W's input, it sounds like you only need to add one new feeder.

I would not do anything that permanently changes the PS nor would I open the PS. Even a foot or so of smaller wire isn't at all critical. I would make the existing wire from the PS to track larger if it is something like the 20 or 22ga. that is typical of set stuff, or if it is very long. The fact that you need a high setting on the PS to get the train going points to the possibility of significant voltage drop between the PS and the track. Larger wire would fix that possibility.

If the PS uses screw terminals, use the largest wire that will comfortably fit under the screw. A few inches of that wire will provide a place to strip and solder the extra wires for the split. The wire from the PS can go directly to one track hookup point with the extra connection to the new point. Get some shrink tubing or electrical tape for insulating the junction points.

Another possibility is to use a small multi-point terminal strip, with the distribution accomplished on it. Again, near the PS. Terminal strips are available at home supply (Home Depot, Lowes) and electronics stores (Radio Shack) as well as on-line.

Soldering the new wires to the existing track clip would be my last choice, but even that should be better than what you now have.

I'm certain others will make suggestions, but the main thing is to keep it simple!!

Let us know how this work out.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Texas:

The closer to the power pack you make the multiple feeder wire connections, the less voltage drop you will see. In other words, try to connect the two or three sets of wires directly to your power pack rather than to the track.

Brian's suggestion to use 16 ga. wire is fine, but the bigger the wire, the less the voltage drop. I would definitely use the stranded wire he recommended. Zip cord or speaker wire will work fine.

Do consider a larger power pack. I'm certain you are working at the limit for the set power pack.

And I agree that replacing the rail should only be considered if increased feeder wires and / or a new power pack do not provide the desired results.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Texas:

DO NOT hook another power supply to the same track with out some type of electrical isolation. There are a number of problems that can result, with most of them having the potential to destroy at least one of your power supplies.

Your problem is simple and can be solved. When the train operates as you have described, it's probably the result of voltage drop through the rails or connectors. The track is simply not conducting the available power to the furthest points on the loop. Some questions and suggestions:

What brand and / or type of track you are using? If it's Bachmann's, it's made from pressed steel. That material is  not highly conductive as compared to solid brass or other metals. Additionally, it tends to corrode (rust) at every joint. The rust produced is a very good insulator, thus further limiting the conductivity. Replacing the steel track with brass track is a good solution to consider.

Is the power supply the one that came with the set? Set power supplies are usually the absolute minimum required to get the train around the circle of set track supplied. The required power supply rating is generally not connected to the length of track, but if you are starting with a power supply with marginal output (your 65% power when close to the feeders), every foot of track or track joint really works against you. For your single loop, you most probably need to upgrade the power supply to something around 5 amps. These are readily available.

A final suggestion is to provide power feeders to one or two more places around the loop. Use 10 gauge or 12 gauge wire hooked directly between the existing power supply and the rail at points about 1/2 or 1/3 way around your track. Make certain you maintain correct polarity for the additional feeders. Many of us would consider that a simple 12 foot 'round the room' loop wouldn't need additional feeders, but when you add the steel track, small power supply and the additional track (~45') as compared to the circle of track (~13') that comes with most sets, it will probably be your most immediate and cheapest solution.

Hope this helps & Happy RRing,

Jerry

new G:

I'm confused by your notice of abandonment. What does it have to do with this thread "Large Scale Locomotive Suggestions"? Neither you nor irparks have posted to this thread.

I would politely suggest that you're pretty sensitive if you're somehow offended by a thread that you haven't participated in nor that has even mentioned your name. Take a few deep breaths or you're liable to hurt yourself!!

BTW, real geniuses usually hang in, just to show all the nay-sayers what can really be done!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

new G:

Since you probably have a degree in RF and remote control engineering and design, I would suggest you review the use of resistors in power dropping circuits. They are not very desirable solutions for modern circuitry, as they consume large amounts of power, produce heat and (most important) do not provide a 'fixed' voltage for varying input voltages. Perhaps modern voltage regulators were not available when you got your training, but they are much more desirable for providing the fixed voltage from a variable or higher voltage source that an R/C receiver would require.

Your profile doesn't say, but I assume you are in the U.S.A. What frequency band do you intend to use? I think that will not only be of legal concern, but will also relate to power and range. Will you be seeking FCC approval? Will you also design a new electronic speed controller for this application? Just few minor points to consider.

Seeing your "new G", make certain you aren't working on solving a non-existent problem. Many frustrations folks experience with track power come from the inability to get consistent power through the rails (due to rail joint connections and distance), through the moving power pickups (rail sliders are non-prototypical visual items and catch on stuff like crossing and switches, while sliding wheel contacts are relatively fragile and unreliable). Add the fact that the rails frequently need cleaning. In order to supply consistent power to the on-board Rx and the locomotive motors, you will still need to overcome these problems.

A solution that many LS outdoor RRers have found is to completely replace track power with batteries. The batteries in my engines power the motor(s), R/C receiver, electronic speed control, sound system and lighting. They easily last through a long operating session.

As to transmitter batteries, my RCS hand pieces use a single 9V battery that typically lasts more than a year in actual service. Hard to beat just changing it for new in ~30 seconds. Why use an expensive and difficult battery technology to replace something as mundane as a 9V transmitter battery?

I'm not trying to dampen your enthusiasm, but IMHO, the system you are working on has several serious negatives that are already solved by the R/C controls many of us have installed. Do keep us informed as something new is always interesting.

BTW, your blast at RCS is totally unwarranted. Tony Walsham is the owner of RCS. He is in Australia and does the R&D as well as a goodly amount of the manufacturing himself. He does employ outside consultants and manufacturers for some of the specialized stuff, but he is both the designer and manufacturer of his RCS products.

lrparks:

The RCS charging jack can be used to alternately accept input power from the locomotive internal batteries and a battery equipped trail car. In operation, the batteries internal to the locomotive are the source of power when there is nothing in the plug, but if you discharge them, a trail car with batteries can be plugged in and operations can continue. TOC has batteries inside the logs on a log car and uses it if the guys are still on their feet after several hours of running his logging branch. Ask him, or look on the RCS site for the schematic of this setup.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: ryeguyisme on July 18, 2007, 07:32:49 PM
I'd like to see some standard gauge steam

ME TOO!

A standard gauge 2-6-0, 2-6-2 or small 2-8-0 in 1:20.3 (F) scale running on 70.6mm (2.78") gauge track would be great!! Take a look at Sierra RR #28. For anyone not familiar, it's the 2-8-0 shown on the turntable (behind Christian Spencer) in the lead-in to the PBS program "Tracks Ahead". SRR #28 is a great example of Western U.S. SG shortline steam power. In case measuring (or recording the sound) is necessary, it's still available (and in operation) at the California State Railroad Museum's Railtown 1897 in Jamestown, CA.

Not being selfish, an F scale standard gauge logging Prairie (2-6-2) would also work just fine.

BTW, plastic tie strips for 70.6mm gauge track (using code 250 rail) are available from Iron Creek Shops. He also has dual (45mm & 70.6mm) gauge strips available. Great way to show the contrast between SG & NG.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: japasha on July 17, 2007, 02:54:17 PM
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass.  While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.

Aluminum metal is an excellent conductor. The aluminum oxide (Al2O3 or "alumina") that forms on the surface of aluminum is one of the best insulators available, as well as being a very hard material. Not a very good choice for track power.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I fully agree with using timers, motion sensors, or other means to limit train operation to the times guests are present. That will really cut down on the wear, problems, and both scheduled and unscheduled maintenance. For long trains and heavy duty service, the sudden application or removal of power by a switch contact is also hard on the equipment, including power supplies, motors, gear trains and couplers.

You need to use a voltage ramping device or circuit to make a 'soft start' when the detector contacts close. It would also be good to use a voltage decreasing device to 'cushion' the stops. There are some on the market, or one of your associates or volunteers can build one. There are several techniques that are simple, inexpensive and reliable. Since some of the finest engineering minds in the free world reside in Tennessee (I'm thinking Oak Ridge National Laboratories), you should be able to get some good local help on power control.

I'm also certain the advice here can help improve your RRs reliability and hopefully some experienced person will live in the neighborhood. Is this a permanent installation, or is it a temporary display?

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: Karl Reichenbach on July 09, 2007, 04:03:18 PM
That same photo has been in TW add since the 36 ton Shay was introduced almost 2 years ago.

Karl

Karl:

You are correct that the picture and ad have been running for a long time, but the 36 ton Shay was released almost 10 years ago. That incorrect ad was first cut for the 38 ton (steel cab) Shay.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Frolin:

Trainworld has been running that exact same ad with the ". . . 35 TON . . ." (should read ". . . 38 TON . . .") typo and the non-existant part number since the 38 ton two truck Shay was first announced well more than a year ago. When that ad was originally cut, there wasn't a "38 ton Shay" to take a picture of, so an incorrect picture was used. TW ignored the fact that it would be hard to tell the difference between the 'original' 36 ton two truck Shay and the 'new' 38 ton two truck Shay in the small low resolution pictures that accompany their ads, and used a picture of the On30 T-Boiler Shay instead. I can imagine some (non-modeler) advertising person's viewpoint that ". . . a Shay is a Shay . . ." They are Trainworld's errors, having absolutely nothing to do with the possiblity of a small Shay based on Bachmann's On30 machine. TW, being the thrifty discounter they are, are very unlikely to fix the ad.

We can still hope for a 1:20.3 T-Boiler, Two Truck Shay. Best is to post your interest here or write directly to Lee Riley at Bachmann. Quite a few of us have done that, but no annoucement yet.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Nevin:

Welcome to the world of 1:20.3 scale trains!!

1. 4' radius is the minimum I would / do use. All of Bachmann's current 1:20.3 engines will negotiate that radius, but larger engines such as the announced K-27 and others probably won't work on 4' radius. If you plan to use geared and 4 wheel locomotives with small rolling stock, you will be OK. As in any model train operating environment, larger radius is better.

2. My RGS based clearance gauge measures ~7 1/8" wide (12' in 1:20.3), but I usually use ~8" (~13' 6" in 1:20.3) on center.

3. Of course a shelf layout is doable. Not many that I've seen, but any track plan can be scaled and modified to work. Your available 45' length is a little over 900' in 1:20.3 scale, so short trains and rolling stock will be in order, but that was typical of narrow gauge RRs anyway.

4. Most folks use code 332 track, as that was first produced and popularised by LGB. 0.332" is equal to 6 3/4" in 1:20.3, so it would represent very heavy class 1 railroad trackage. Not very attractive for 3' narrow gauge scale modeling. Many scale oriented modelers use code 250 or code 215 rail. Both are available from several sources in various materials including aluminum, brass and nickel silver. My favorite is Llagas Creek, available from Dave Goodson (aka "TOC") at Northwest RCS and 'Stretch' Manly at California & Oregon Coast Railway. Find them at http://dnkgoods.home.mindspring.com/index.html and http://www.cocry.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT respectively. Both of these gents are very knowledgeable and will spend the time helping a LS beginner. Handlaying is certainly an option, but it is a lot of work. C&OCRwy has lots of supplies and tools for handlaying as well as TO kits.

5. LGB turnouts are radius based to match their track curvatures. Their radii range from 2' to ~10'. The other code 332 manufacturers (primarily Aristocraft and U.S.A. Trains) followed suit in the early days, but now have some numbered TOs available. LGB is currently in bankruptcy and out of production with virtually no stock available in the U.S. Aristocraft just announced a 100% price increase on all track products, thus making the code 250 option look better financially as well as being more attractive from a modeler's viewpoint. Code 250 TOs are available in sizes ranging from #4 to #10 and larger as well as being available in kits. Bare frogs and points are also available in either resin or metal. Check with either of the suppliers above.

6. Most LS structure kits are labeled something along the line of ". . . suitable for large scale . . .", meaning they are somewhere between 1:32 and 1:20. I really don't have much appreciation for a building with 5' tall pedestrian doors! Garden Texture is a premier supplier of both wood kits and plan sets for structures, including 1:20.3 scale. See them at http://web.mac.com/gardentexture/iWeb/Site/Home.html. Lots of mining, bridges, railroad, and other general use structures there.

6. If I were starting again, I would go with Llagas Creek code 250 track and TOs. I already use 100% radio control, so I would use aluminum rail, thus saving some $$. This stuff should have a long life and work well in your environment.

For more LS possibilities and information, pick up an issue of Garden Railways. Lots of information there.

Hope this helps & Happy RRing,

Jerry Bowers

drhone:

Krylon is a brand nme, but it doesn't usually come from hobby shops. It's one of the best known spray paints around and is found in the paint department at hardware stores and home supply stores like Lowes and Home Depot.

Hope this helps.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

EK:

Very nice capture and selective compression of a unique prototype manufacturing facility. And very nice model work. Looking forward to seeing it completed. Looks like you already have a spur ready to service it. Notice that the prototype's RR spur seems to have been removed. In fact, it looks like the prototype facility is abandoned.

Note that the sagging roof follows the curve of the partial wall that is holding it up. If you wanted to make it look like the prototype, you might consider putting a curve in your beam. If plastic, try warm bending it. If wood, you can either curve it or cut a slightly curved one from wider stock.

I doubt that the roof sagged when built. Since you appear to be modeling the building in an earlier time when it was 'in operation', it might be that it is well maintained and / or earlier in its life when the roof didn't sag. In fact, that roof might be a later addition and the space on your model might be something more important: Parking for a a couple of foreground period model cars belonging to the cannery boss and rich farmers / customers? Loading dock for truck deliveries from farms?

Hope this helps,

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: charon on May 26, 2007, 10:20:27 AM
There is no "model making" forum section at mylargescale.com.
Chuck

Chuck:

Yes there is.

See http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=11

Happy RRing,

Jerry