I bought my E-Z Command Control second-hand, & it didn't have the DC/DCC connecting wire or the DVD.  I searched Bachmann's website it vain for these items.

 Ken S, my IHC smooth passenger GN cars look the right color (dark green roofs, orange sides) to me & match the colors of my EMD SD-45 GN locomotive.  I chose IHC, because of the price & because their ad said that the cars work on 18"r, which was all I had.  However, I just got some 22"r & built a second oval outside the one with 18"r, & plant to run my passenger train on the outside oval with its wider curves.
  Gene, I'll check other sources for the wheels.  I'll look for birdshot.  It certainly would adapt well to the available floor space.

 Thanks Len, for the warning about McHenry 52s & for telling me exactly where to find the right wheels.  I placed them in my Walthers Wishlist.  I'd need 48 wheels, which gets expensive.  I am interested in getting insert furnishings for my IHC coach & dining car, but IHC's order page has a security problem with its certification, & my e-mail to IHC's e-mail address was returned as undeliverable.  The one at a hobby store who ordered my IHC passenger cars said it seemed as if he were operating out of his garage.  He has a nice ad in Model Railroader, though.

 Thanks, Yampa Bob.  I wish my Spectrum SD-45 with DCC had sound, but it fits my budget, the era & the railroad I want.  My F7 for my passenger train came with a Walters train set, & I plan to replace it one day with a DCC passenger locomotive with sound.  Sound adds a lot to the cost of a DCC locomotive, though.  Then there is the question of investing in a "B", unpowered or powered.  I saw a DC locomotive with sound; I wonder how it works.
  I found that E-Z Command will not plug into my Power-Loc re-railer, so I'm glad that I ordered an E-Z-Loc straight re-railer & adapters.  Wrapping the universal wires around the Power-Loc terminals is a tenuous connection at best.

 After he saw my photo, the person at Walthers said I was right that it is B that connects to my power pack & A is for connecting another remote!  If I had the right connections, I wonder why the switch didn't work. 
  I just replaced my power pack with EZ Command Control.  I hope I can still use the AC on my power pack to operate the switches.

 Gene, I'll look for #5 couplers.  I don't have any insert furnishing, but I see that I could get them from IHC at $5 each for the coach & dining car.  I hope they will fit on top of 2 thicknesses of pennies.  When I try to order from IHC online, I receive a warning from Internet Explorer that there is something amiss with the site's certification.  Have you ordered online from IHC without problems?

  I just got Bachmann's EZ Command Control.  My DCC locomotive on Address 3 remembers its last speed when I switch to Address 10 to operate my DC locomotive, so I can control its speed to avoid collisions.
  Can I still operate my remote control switches from the AC terminals on my DC Power Pack?

 Yampa Bob,
  That sounds like the kind of book for me.  I have been e-mailing Walthers about whether to connect the A or B on the remote control to my power pack.   The reply said A is supposed to connect to my power pack, B enables two switch track controls to be connected to each other & use one connection to the power pack.  The problem is that they have different connectors, & the wires' plug fits B but not A.  I just photographed the control & e-mailed him a picture.  The wire connected to the switch plugs into C on the control.  The rest should be that easy.

 I've already glued pennies onto the floors of 3 of my 6 IHC passenger cars
I weighed a car at 3 oz.  The car is 11 1/4" long; using the rule for weight, I calculated the optimum weight at 7.5 oz.  15 pennies will fit the length of the floor & weigh about 1 oz.  I glued 15 more on top of them.  I don't know how much a tire weight weighs or how they might fit to distribute their weight, but you who recommend them must have used them successfully.
  The hardest part for me was getting the tops of the cars off.  On the third car, I found an easier way than wedging all 6 tabs at once.  I pushed 2 on an end with a small screwdriver & began prying the top up.
  Conrail Quality, I searched for McHenry 52 couplers to replace the horn & hook ones on my IHC cars.  modeltrainstuff is out of stock & so is Horizon Hobby.  On eBay, I bid last night for some included with a lot of others but find myself far outbid today.  So I'll keep looking.

 Thanks, Jhanecker2.  I didn't think I'd need a book on wiring just to connect Power-Loc switch track.  I e-mailed Walthers Customer Service, & the person replied expressing surprise that there were no directions included!

 Thanks again Guilford Guy!  At least, your tip of using pennies will save me dollars on special train car weights.

 I just got my first Electric Remote Control Power-Loc Switch Track.  I expected to find directions on the back or inside the package, but I found only an ad for Power-Loc track.  The automatic switch track for my old Marx trains was easy in comparison.  Power-Loc's control has A, B & C connections but only two cables.  I connected C to the switch track, leaving one cable for the A & B terminals.  I tried B to the AC teriminals on my power pack, but the switch did not work.  At least, I can turn them manually.
  Even my beginner's book doesn't explain.  Why don't model train companies provide more information about their products & instructions how to operate them?

 Thanks Guilford Guy for the benefit of your experience with IHC passenger cars, & Timothy for your information!  Your advice should help me a lot.  An ad for inserts to furnish the cars was included in each car box, so maybe that's why IHC left the cars light.  I don't suppose IHC would tell how to get the tops of the cars off.  They seem to be metal, perhaps aluminum.

I just received an order of 6 IHC Great Northern smooth passenger cars, discovered that the won't stay coupled to my Athern passenger cars or my Walters locomotive.  I looked up couplers in HO Scale Model Railroading & the pictures indicate that the IHC cars have horn & hook couplers!  I had a difficult time finding inexpensive GN passenger cars, so I'd keep them, if it is not difficult for a novice to replace them.  I can see how to remove them (they look like a crab's claw gripping a T-shaped post), but I don't know what could snap in to replace them.   Walthers' July flyer, page 21, shows "Passenger Truck Conversion Bolsters w/Couplers for 4-wheel IHC Passenger Trucks, & these passenger cars have 4-wheel trucks, but I don't see how they would fit.
  I tried to attach a photo of the IHC coupler.  First, I was told the uploader was full & to try a small file.  Then I was told I'd already submitted this post!

  I just ordered Power-Loc nickel silver track to surround my steel layout.  I will connect them with two steel switches.  I will use 22" curves on the outside & mainly run my passenger train on it with its 72' cars, although they run on 18" curves now.  My freight will run mostly on the 18" curves.  I will have 8 smooth-side GN passenger cars (inadvertently, 2 diners; the Vista Dome was out-of-stock).  In a '40s film, someone mentioned club car, but I haven't seen any such HO model.
  I can't find our dog electric clippers since we moved last year (getting a finished basement).  I think can find Wahl clipper oil locally.
  Jim Banner, my first locomotive was a 2-4-2 die-cast steam number 999, & it still runs!
  We have a dehumidifier in our basement, where our library has become also a train room.  Rodents on the tracks is too much realism!