bozz

Do you have a 1 amp "power supply"? A basic power supply consists of a transformer to reduce the voltage, a rectifier to convert the AC (alternating current (reversing)) from the transformer output to DC (direct current) and a rheostat to adjust the locomotive speed (by limiting the available current).

A 1amp power supply will adequately operate most single small scale locomotives.

The amount of track in a layout is not in itself the limiting factor. Track with friction connections is resistive causing voltage drops that limit available current. Supplemental parallel wire routes to carry power throughout the layout are recommended to eliminate voltage drop.

I am assuming you are using DC so all (trains) locomotives within a commonly wired area will operate together. For separate operation check out DCC (Digital Command Control).

This does not answer all your questions but it's a start.

djp
As far as I know a transformer changes voltage and is used primarily with alternating current. More current available at lower voltage or less current at higher voltage (same power). A DCC booster increases available (power) current at the same track voltage using a seperate power source. I have heard of using a high quality audio amplifier but starting from scratch a booster is probably your best solution. Depending on your input (wall) voltage the US @ 120 volts or the British @240 volts could best suit your needs. Sorry I dont have one to weigh.

I hope to meet you and see the "test shots" of the 18 ton Heisler in On30 
at the NG Convention in Portland Maine.

Please don't disapoint me, oh well there is always next year!

Roger,

I have found that since I moved to O scale working in prototype linear dimensions ensures accuracy.

A helpful conversion is that 1 inch is equivalent to 0.020 (20 thousandths) in O scale.

O Scale : 1foot = ¼ Inch or 12inches = 0.25 inches or 1inch = .25 / 12 = 0.0208333…inches.

Code 55 rail = 0.55” high or 55 / 20 = 2 ¾” (scale)

Code 70 rail = 0.70” high or 70 / 20 = 3 1/2” (scale)

Code 83 rail = 0.83” high or .83 / 20 = 4 1/8” (scale)

Code 100 rail = 5” scale (You can do the math in your head)

For example: Grab irons, 0.015 brass wire is ¾” in O scale.

Converting prototype rail sizes in pounds per yard requires a conversion table I don’t have.


I hope this helps.

Taint no more broke!!

Monday morning (16th) my browser timed out and showed this site was not available.

With persistence I was able to get in and found navigation within the site slow.

Logging onto the site is still slow but navigation within the site has improved.

I’m across the continent and this is my experience and not a complaint.

E k

Your reply pointed out a serious error in my quoting Ohms law.

It should have been I=E/R

sorry for the confusion.

E k

The voltage drop should be the same for both systems with the same load up to the 1 amp capacity.

It is only the NCE system that could experience a larger voltage drop only when more than 1 amp is moved through a faulty connection.

Is the mud getting any clearer? or?

Tim & Ek

Expanding on and adding to Tim's analogy.

Using the water analogy a resistance is the equivalent to a constriction in the line. The pressure after the constriction will be proportional to the flow.

With no flow the pressure on both sides of the constriction will be equal.

This is why you can not find unwanted resistance within electrical distribution using a voltmeter without having current flow involved.

Is everyone more confused or hopefully it's “I THINK I'VE GOT IT"

E K

A "poorly" connected rail joiner can create a resistance between the adjacent rails.

The basic electrical rule (Ohms law) is I=E/R.(Changed)
E=Voltage (pressure pushing the electricity)
I=Current (amount of electricity in amperes)
R= Resistance (amount of obstruction to electrical flow in Ohms)

This explains why a poor connection causes a voltage drop that can slow or even stop a locomotive.

Adequate power distribution through the layout is paramount to trouble free operation as there will be minimal voltage changes as locomotives move through the rail system.

Hope this helps or ask for more information.

There are 8 in the photo so the loco is probably a red herring. Spouts for filling oil tank cars?

Nelson

Gene

Tank car filling stand pipes??

Nelson

Clarification and additional information

Mechanical connectors can work well only when they are designed for
the specific wire sizes and types used. (Stranded, solid and insulation)
Tapping a #22ga feeder into a #12ga buss would not work reliably with
a connector designed for #12ga wire only.

Another major factor in the successful soldering procedure is the
soldering iron. First of all the tip must be clean and tinned. A plated tip
can be cleaned on a wet sponge and coated sparingly with solder and
the excess cleaned off on the sponge leaving a shiny surface. This will
ensure good heat transfer during the soldering process.

An added benefit for those of us with Scottish heritage is the lower cost
of soldering.

Mechanical connections are prone to corrosion and
inadequate physical contact. Either of these can create
trouble shooting nightmares.

Soldering, if done correctly, provides a permanent
trouble free mechanical and electrical connection.

The following tips should help.

The wires to be soldered should be as clean as
practical for the solder to flow.

The wires should be joined together to provide a
good mechanical connection. Do not rely on a
blob of solder to hold things together.

Hold the soldering iron against the connection
and test the temperature by applying rosin core
(not acid) solder sparingly to the junction between
the iron and splice. When the solder starts to flow
add only enough extra solder to completely fill the
contact areas between the wires.

Important â€" Do not move the connection while the
solder is cooling. Movement can crystallize the solder
and compromise the conductivity.

All that remains is to insulate the connection to
prevent unwanted shorts. Tape, shrink tubing (plan
ahead) or brush on thick liquid all work.

I hope this helps.


                                          

ppowell

International hobbies at

http://www.interhobmodels.com/

have 14ft cabooses kits with or without cupola.