I'd recommend a Large Steam Tsunami.

http://www.soundtraxx.com/products/dcc/tsunamisound.htm

Bachmann actually uses a specialized tsunami in their DCC & Sound on board locos. No modifications need to be made to the Tsunami to put it in your 2-10-2, the Bachmann one is only different in the amount of sounds on the decoder--the stock Tsunami has more.

The measurement refers to the diameter of the wheel. And I'm not exactly sure about them being appropriate for all cars. (I know they aren't, but I'm not sure which they are appropriate for and which they aren't)

They're really the same thing. The only difference is what keeps the knuckle closed. The mark I's use a small plastic whisker while the Mark II's use a small metal spring to apply pressure to the knuckle and keep it closed.

Hey all. I was just wondering, I've been looking for an N scale ATSF 5000 class 2-10-4, and I got to wondering if I found one, maybe I could add sound to it. Obviously, I would have to put the decoder in the tender, but I was wondering if it would even fit in there. Now, since I don't have an HO scale 2-10-4 to rip measurements from, (or even blueprints on the internet) I don't know if it would fit. But I figured that a 4-8-4 tender would be good for a comparison. But again, no HO (Or N for that matter...) scale model to get measurements from. So if someone with a Bachmann ATSF northern could give me the measurements for the tender, a few pictures with measurements photoshopped on, or even a simple yes or no  as to whether a mini Tsunami will fit in the tender. (Not including any frame that or weight would have to be milled.)

Please and thank you!

Quote from: Yampa Bob on February 28, 2008, 06:50:13 PM
Ho
The angle of divergence of the #5 turnout is 12 degrees.  There are 12 degree sections that will return to parallel.  (33.25" radius)

I have a listing somewhere of the #6 angle, will try to find it.

I suggest getting a copy of the new EZ track layout book.

Bob

A #6 turnout has a diverging angle of 9.46 degrees.

I'm sorry its taken so long to get back to you Jonathan, I got busy and the topic just kind of sank out of existence! I use it for a few things, mainly track planning. Like when I'm making a passing siding, and need a curve that fits the diverging route of a turnout and the track parallel to the main, instead of using XtrkCAD's horrid easement function for it, I can just create a piece of curved track with the desired radius and look up the correct angle for the piece so it fits just right. And as said by earlier, people that handlay their track often use CAD programs to create a template off of which they lay their track.

Quote from: Trainguy95 on February 10, 2008, 09:24:01 PM
Hey,
I am replying about running multiple trains on one set of track. I do it all the time with no help from complecated systems or anything like that. I just set two locomotives and some cars in two different areas, plug in the controller and boom two trains at once!Hope this helps.

    -Trainguy

I think he means controlling two or more trains independently on the same track.

And, again, I second Alex with the Zephyr.

Quote from: Guilford Guy on February 21, 2008, 04:40:59 PM
TRAITOR... going to the darkside... All they have are cookies and oversized couplers...

But the cookies are damn good Ill tell you that!

Hey all. I have been thinking about this for a while now, since my space is a bit small (9'3"x16'9") for what I would like to model (something similar to Cajon, Donner or Tehachapi Pass--Though in the Lush Pacific Northwest Rockies instead of the barren So Cal Sierra Nevada mountains) I have decided I'm going to switch to N-Scale for now (Or, heck, I may get attached to the scale and use it forever!) so I can get what I want into the space I have. But, since I am normally an HO scaler, I'm not very well versed in N scale standards (Not NMRA per say, just regular Do's n' Dont's) I do know a few things, like not to use (C)Rapidos, try to keep my curves above 16" radius (Though 19"+ is the best, which I can certainly do!) ect. But I would like you guys to just point a new N scaler in the right direction! But what I am thinking of doing, is something modern (So I can run Double Stacks, Auto Racks, Bethgon Unit trains, use GEVOs and SD70MAC's, ect) and have SP#4449 on like excursion service (Gotta have an excuse for the Kato GS-4!) and possibly even a UP Challenger. But anyway, have any tips for me?

Two words (tags) [IMG] and [/img]


Put those around the Imageshack URLs so that we dont have to deal with all the **** from Imageshack.


Either that, or use Photobucket!!!!

I have one! All seems well with the synchronization, when you open up the locomotive, you can see the shaft sticks out both sides of the motor, one side to the gearbox, the other to the flywheel. The flywheel side has a disk with a bunch of holes around the perimeter, in front of a photoresistor, this produces the synchronized chuff.

^Well, I must say, that IS creative!

I'll testify for the Zephyr. I have one also and I too love it!

If worse comes to worse, hand lay 'em!

Quote from: WoundedBear on January 31, 2008, 09:05:41 PM
Gene....

Get yourself a mini tri-pod and put the camera onto manual and set to the largest f stop value you have. Also try and look for the "macro" symbol on your camera. It usually looks like a flower icon......when used in conjunction with the manual f stop, your depth of field and overall focus will improve on the close range shots.

Sid

Just giving my input on that...

http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/cameras/82db/

It is a mini tripod with flexible legs, so it can cling to just about anything. (Great for benchwork!!) I have one and I love it!