Good Afternoon All,

      I just looked at the Sierra link,  and after seeing some of the prices,  the sawmill may have to be put on ice for a while.

Tim,   I will do my best to post pictures,  and Dave,  thanks for the Sierra link.

"If you can set CV's, CV 8 will reset the decoder to the Bachmann defaults"  I believe should read set CV8 to a value of 8.

Good Evening All,

       Well,  the possibility of Bachmann doing the sawmill as a kit might not be far fetched.   Everytime I hope for something,  and not being patient enough to wait,  I go ahead and scratch or kitbash something and shortly after,  a manufacturer offers up the building,  etc.    Since I have the Plasticville covered bridges,  I will soon be starting on the shed.   Now all I have to find is the interior tools,  saws,  conveyors etc.   Any hints where to look?

Good evening all,

     Let me add to what Doneldon said earlier.   I got in the wonderful hobby of model railroading back around 1957.   At that time,  the Mantua hoop type coupler was being fazed out by the "NMRA" coupler.   It wasn't until late in the 1960s or the early 1970s that I ever heard the term hook/horn which,  now I understand it,  should be horn/hook.  I do not know when I ever heard the term X2f.  I didn't even know what NMRA refered to,  it was just a term.   I was like almost every other model railroader in my area and that was the term that was used.  It was not meant,  as far as I know,  as a slur to the National Model Railroad Association.  Going back to X2f,  where did that term come from and other than a name for a coupler,  no longer to be called an NMRA coupler,  does the term have any specific meaning?

Rich,

      Here in the Philadelphia area,  the B&M RS3s have already come and gone,  arriving either the last week of December or the first week of January.
     Thinking back to Roger being upset about paint color,  what you will find "wrong" with these locos  will be incorrect horns,  lack of grab irons,  but in general,  these are all very correctable "flaws".   These engines run well and sound great,  at least to me, and are a welcome addition to my loco roster.
     And just off topic a bit,  I was trying to unload my car barge the other day an my Proto 2000 0-6-0 could not handle the load.   Now in fairness, the load was a Bachmann 2-8-0 and a Bachmann 4-8-2,  part of my new "boneyard train."   I found that my Bachmann WM S-4 was a near perfect match in speed!   What a unigue sight of an S-4 and 0-6-0 moving thru my industrial shifting area on the way to the main yard.

Tim,

       Thankyou VERY much for the link.   If gave me exactly what I was looking for.

Further info:  I believe this sawmill was used on one of the Bachmann traveling layouts.

Good Morning All,

      I just checked out the photo albums and unless I missed them,  I could not find any pix of the On30 sawmil that was kitbashed using the O scale Plasticville covered bridge.   Is there anyway I can get pix of that structure including the interior?

Good Morning All,

     I am confused.   If you plan on removing the track from the plastic roadbed,  then why not just purchase Atlas snap track to begin with?

Good Morning All,

       As I understand it,  the decoder that Bachmann uses is a variation of the traditional Tsunami decoder.   It has fewer horn/whistle selections and there are other characteristics not there that are installed in the traditional Tsunami.   Hunt might chime in here as he as discussed this before.
       Now....I am not sure what you mean by braking,  but I have three Bachmann sound value added diesels.   Using my Digitrx system I can adjust the braking on my engines via CV 4.   I also can adust my momentum via CV 3 and my horn selection via CV 115.

I have used Elmer's carpenter's glue,  the yellow glue,  with great results.

Doneldon,

     I slightly,  but politely disagree.   As a kid,   I ran on a 4x8 platform and would see my engine slow down on the opposite side of the board from where my power pack was located.   The engine would slow down,  then speed up again at the same two places,  even with clean track.   However,  dirty track would be the easiest to check out.

Fla Guy,

     Your explaination of an engine slowing down and then picking back up or stopping sounds like a voltage drop in you track.   As the power in your rails gets further from the power source,  due to resistance in the rail,  the amount volts available to your engine decreases.   There is a very easy remedy.   Put more than one set of wire drops from you rails.   You will not be putting more power in the rails,  but will simply be putting the power into the rails at more than one spot,  thus defeating the voltage drop.

Folks,

      I agree that shouting is inappropriate  but,  maybe the "offending" person does not realize that typing in all upper case letters is akin to shouting.