how do the shell come off the modern 4-4-0? I need to get to the motor & its wiring to check and see if there's a motor problem.

I'm converting the dcc to a straight DC locomotive, as my new shelf layout is not going to be DCC at all. I'm in a bind where if I want a layout at all, it has to be a shelf style one around the room, as opposed to a "takes up the entire room" layout. Most of the smaller engines I have are straight DC & I like the block system with toggles then the DCC style of all on.

Thanks,
Vermont Bob

Does this apply to the DCC 3 truck version as well, or just the 2 truck?

VTBob

I used to be into the whole sound thing, but I find that it becomes irritating after a while. I like them quiet for the most part. Plus, money's tight right now, trying to fix what I have without spending a whole lot. I have a couple NCE decoders on the shelf, but I'm not sure that they'll fit in the tender.

Robert

Been away for a long while, been working on getting a CDL A for a new job.

Anyway, I have a DCC on board 4-4-0 Southern locomotive. It was running fine until I had a brownout of power at my house. Since then (last summer) it deosn't move an inch. I can get it to respond via the headlight only, as in I can type in loco address 03, & then turn the headlight on & off via the handset, but other then that, I cannot get it to move in either direction. Also strange is that when placed on the programming track, it can't find the decoder make or version at all. Just reads "CANNOT FIND CV". I have an NCE Power cab set up. On straight DC power, I get a headlight, but still no movement.

I've run countless google searches as to the solution, but I can't seem to find a working solution. I've tried the CV 8 = 8 , or CV 30 = 2 resets, but alas, nothing. I've tried clearing every consist I ever had for my new layout, still no luck. I've even taken the loco apart to see if I had a burned out circuit, or broken wire, but all is in tact, including no wire shorts or pinching.

It's a beautiful little locomotive, but it'd be sure nice to get it running again.

Thanks,
Robert

I saw that post, but that was 5 years ago.

I've heard that they now have metal gearing, & my question was more of a "Can I take the drivelines & gearboxes from the product pages & will the new parts fit? I really don't want to use the same old plastic gearing that was prone to failure. My 3 truck Climax has all of literally 9.5inches of travel/running distance before the gearing let go. I spent full retail for both of these locomotives, & would kind of like to see them actually go more then a foot of actual distance

Thanks,
Vermont Bob

I have a question pertaining to the original Climax releases,

I have a 2 truck, & a 3 truck(DCC - No Sound) Climax. Both refuse to move at all, due to the gearbox failures (plastic gearing). Can I buy just the gear box &/or the trucks separately without having to mail the locomotive all the way back into the shops? I'd like to get these gems back on the tracks again.

Thanks,
Vermont Bob

This is not meant as an argument starter, or flame war. Just a few questions that I don't know the answer to.

1. Why was the high-drivered 4-6-0 discontinued?

2. Did something happen to the back box Spectrum line?

3. I heard someone at a train show talk about both Plus & Spectrum lines being discontinued in favor of a DCC/Sound value line only. What is the story on that?

In other news, I am moving again & this time I actually have a place to build an actual layout. Photos when I get everything sorted.

Thanks for your time,

Vermont Bob

just an question from someone that has quite a fleet of the old school climaxes?

The gearbox is locked up on my original run ones. The "new" gearbox with the metal gears.....can the gearboxes be bought seperately & if so, will they work in the old run ones as sort of a direct replacement? I have about 4 of the old ones, (a 2 trk model & 3 three-truck ones) I don't really want to have to buy all new models for a fix

Rob

It wouldn't happen to be the "exploding combine" from a gold rush set (mid-70's - mid-80's) would it? I seem to recall having one that was spring loaded as a youngster.

link here: http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/bachmannhoscaletrainsets/id37.html

Vermont Bob

plastic kits are jacked high as well, assuming you can find them among all the "ready-to-run" stuff. Just saw a tag for a flatcar around $25 bucks, RTR as well.

I ran the cost of restoring my old 1965 Buick Electra 225 back to factory default, or even just new paint & a cleaning, & it was only around 12 grand. Jags are a special breed of car, they're up there in the Bentley, BMW, Audi area of the shows. I was talking domestic hotrod era, Fords, Chevys, Oldsmobiles, Buicks, Hudsons, NAsh, AMC, etc era. A Jag is a rich man's car.

It's getting to be a rich man's hobby only. Can't exactly bring in new folks to the hobby when all this stuff is priced so high. Already had some folks look at the prices, & say that restoring a classic car is cheaper in the long run.

Vermont Bob

Excellent! Is there any way to request larger images so those of us with wonky vision can see the tiny parts a little more clearer? I have a 2 trk climax that I'd love to fix & get running again. My universals were ok, it was something in the gearbox that went on me.

Thank you,
Vermont Bob

TOny's carries a T1 Decoder (TCS) that will do both DCC & DC. I've been installing them into all of my Bachmann locomotives without any hassle. Never had one short out yet either, altho I run my DC locomotives with a Tech 2500 power pack. The bigger & huskier power packs with the pulse switch might fry the T1 tho, so be careful on how much juice you give them.

Vermont Bob

Upon dis-assembly of the 2 trk model, it appears that the front gear cracked, as well as the front universal joints. That back truck & gearing still function, although there's a hairline crack in that gear as well.

If NWSL makes all the gearbox & universal joints, then I'll buy those & install them. But I haven't been able to locate any of them in the nwsl catalog.

Thanks,
Vermont Bob

I did that with the 2 trk version. Was all gentle on it & halfway around the layout, the gearbox breaks down.

Unless I can find a gearbox, It's a very expensive static display. Don't want the same thing to happen to the 3 trk version

Vermont Bob