I need to repair a U36B auto-train with the older 8 wheel drive chassis - the heavy one.  I'm finding a lot of U36B and GP40 (same chassis) locomotives on e-bay but rarely does the seller show the engine with the shell off or even the bottom of the locomotive so I'm not able to identify the chassis I need to salvage parts.  Is there a way to identify the type of motor/chassis from the box number, if it's the original box, or engine number on the side of the cab or some other way?

Did I miss something.  You knew what was coming??

Does any one know if the U-Boat shell from the Bachmann Auto Train will fit on the chassis of an Athearn U-Boat

Had to read it twice before I got it.  Nice touch.  Lynbrook L.I. to Cincy OH.  FYI.  I have a GS4, DCC & Sound.  Backing trouble due to wires between loco and tender so I now use the PLUS version.  Thanks.

Yes-but the seller identified it as a cab forward so I'm a bit suspicious. I'm going to pass on this but I was hoping to figure out a way of identifying.  Thanks for your help.

Try hoseeker.com.  You just might find a manual.

Thanks all.  No wires so it's either an original standard line or a Bachman Plus.  Since I'm looking at a picture can it be determined if its a standard or a plus?

I'm looking at a Bachmann SP Daylight GS4.  How can I tell if it's the original standard version, the PLUS version, the Spectrum version or the DCC version?  The listing just says it's a Bachmann GS4 Daylight and there is no box.

Never thought of it.  I've got a B23-7 so I'll try.  Thanks.

If you try glue, try Gorilla Glue.  Because Gorilla Glue expands it will make a very tight bond because of the enclosed connector.  Don't use too much and cut off any glue that expands out of the connector when it's dry. Don't use too much.  It worked great on a geared Rivarossi driver.  One very important point.  Make sure the wheels are "quartered".  It's not that hard, just be sure all the counterweights on the drivers are in the same position.  Good luck.

Will a Bachmann U36 shell fit on an Athearn U-Boat chassis?  Anyone tried it?

The folks at Bachmann just sent me this locomotive to replace a locomotive that could not be repaired or replaced.  While I was disappointed that I could not get a matching replacement, this is a good running, nice looking locomotive.  It came with a Vanderbilt tender that is a little light.  I would like to add some weight to the tender.  Paper work shows how the trucks come off the body but not how the bottom of the tender shell comes off, if at all, to add weight.  Any help.  The tender looks really fragile.

Here's a wild thought for "trains2brown".  When I bought a used roundhouse it was missing several doors and windows.  I color copied an existing door and window pasted the copies (on both sides for open doors) on card stock (index cards worked great) cut them out and glued them in place.  Even up close, doors and windows looked surprisingly good.  If you have an original Independence Hall in "O" scale try copying the walls at 50% for HO scale then do a little kit bashing for the roof and roof railings using Plastruct parts.  It's gonna be a lot more difficult than doors and windows, but what the heck, it may be fun to try.

By coincidence I was looking on e-Bay yesterday (3/5/12) and found two "Independence Halls". One was yellow brick and the other was red brick but otherwise identical.  When I zoomed in on the pictures there was the yellow one with "Plasticville Town Hall" on the front wall while the red one said "Independence Hall".  I hadn't realized Bachmann made two "different/identical" kits.  Both were 'O' scale.  Too bad for me.

Does anyone know if a hobby shop or on-line dealer acquired the left over stock when Champ went out of business.  Caboose Hobbies has a lot of Champ decals but not the ones I'm looking for.

Private Road Names OHIO & VALLEY in HO & O plus LIRR HN320, Long Island white lettering in HO