Railroad, builder, model, and.......previous owner. That should make it a little more interesting.

Kevin

I'm going to take a wild guess and say that the RR is the ET&WNC

kevin

how far apart are you putting the piers?

check this site out

http://ncespee.railfan.net/Foothill/frmain.html

did you know......

the CA state route 49 grade crossing on the Mountain Quarries RR neare Auburn, CA was the only crossing in the US where trians had to stop for cars.....

or is this spot in a sharp turn?

It depends on how old the cars are. The older Bachmann cars came with horn hook couplers, and the newer ones come with knuckle couplers. Atlas uses knuckle couplers. If you're buying everything new, you won't have a problem.

I soak mine in paint thinner overnight then spray them out with compressed air.

which set is it? Also, what are some of the problems you're having with it?

Kevin

Are you trying to run more than one train at a time? If you are, a starter set's power pack will probably not be enough. You can find a suitable one from many companies, I prefer MRC for DC controllers. The Spectrum Magnum or something similar should work.

decelleration sickness

Those are extra rail joiners in case something happens. Be careful and try not to step on the track. The rails are hollow and WILL bend. That's one of those wonderful things I learned so you don't have to.

Kevin

sounds like you need to clean the track and wheels. An easy way to do this is to use a rag and rubbing alcohol. Wipe the rails clean, then place the rag on the tracks and spin the loco's wheels on the cloth. Follow the wet rag with a clean, dry rag.


Kevin

we'll all be OK as long as you don't eat the fish. Otherwise it would be like a tractor full of screaming children.

it might be best not to ask on this one...

I've got an AHM 0-4-0 that does a lap around the 4x8 in about 2.5 seconds......if it stays on the track that is.

My IHC 2-8-2 looks reasonable on 18" curves, so the smaller SY should look better


Kevin