I'm trying to change the CV's and Loco's ID on a Bachmann 1 Amp. Decoder to a four digit ID  with the Digitrax system, I downloaded the manual for the decoder, but still have some problems with getting it to take.  What type of  programing mode works best on this style decoder and if there are any special steps that may need to be taken.

Thanks 
Les

That's all right will let the (MINE) side, but I'm sure the little engineer is willing to share .     And it looks like the painting is from the little Rembrandt. 

I think I recall him saying something about it, If that's the case then what I have planed on running will work just fine.  I'm actually working on an addition to the original layout design, and will be posting it when it's done.

Les

full Maxx:

So would it be safe to assume that all your curves are ether 22" or 18", and if so how dose your bigger stuff run on them any derailing problems, I'm not real concerned if they   over hang a little bit most of the cars will be 40' or 50'.

Joe323:

No it doesn't need to say Las Vegas, and as for the scheme it will probably be a Southwest Desert, running the Union Pacific, Santa Fe, and maybe others that are in this area.

Les

full maxx:

What is the radius your using on the lower half of the picture, I have been trying to do something like that but haven't been able to get the correct radius.  With the new size of your layout, how are you laying out your track connections so you can get a reliable track conductivity for the DCC.  I went out and bought spare rail joint's and I'm attempting to try and solder wire to them.  I bought a couple of the Atlas rail joint with wires but the wire size is a little small for the DCC system I'm using.

Nigel:, Joe323: 

I originally started researching the background of the rail systems here around where I live (Las Vegas, Nevada), and found out that the Amtrak station, Union Pacific rail yard have pulled out. So there is not much here anymore, there are a few side spurs that service a cement plant ( I think) up north of here and haven't been able to find out where the hopper cars are going/coming, there is also some type of industrial complex that has a bunch of tank and hopper cars that's down south of here.  But I have not had a chance to go find out what type materials that are being carried, I keep forgetting to get the name of the company's to try a research them.  I've been using Google Earth to locate most of the side spurs around here but it doesn't give much information on the company's.

Les

full maxx:

It looks like your doing the same thing I'm doing. JUMPPING IN WITH BOTH FEET...     I just ordered more track from The Favorite spot, to add on to my temporary layout, the next step is build the bench work. I'm using a welding table for the layout now.  What is the size of your total layout now with the addition, I'm trying to get a idea for the size of mine.  Also your track looks a little close to that one edge, are you planning on putting any edging around it?

Les

Thanks, will see what I can come up with.

Les

Oops, what I was talking about is to shorten the inside straightaway, so it openens the gap between the too.

Les

All your comments and suggestions are most appreciated and brings up good points.

I received my Digitrax system today, when I opened the boxes and pulled out the DCS 200, I started laughing at the size of it, I know from being in electronics that technology is getting small but seeing the pictures on the web sites, (I thought it would be bigger.) O.K "bad joke"....  but can't wait to try it out this weekend.

Ebtnut: I was looking at the 2-8-0 or or a little bigger, and my thinking was between the  engine and tinder would be over 12", unfortunately there are no spec.'s in the descriptions so it's hard to tell.  Thanks for the heads up on the curves.

Hotrainlover: that sure sound's like personal experience to me..

Santa Fe buff: Thanks, I plan on it.   

Joe Satnik: I appreciate the information, and have a question for you and ebtnut,  if I shorten the straightaways that should give me the separation needed between them without changing the design to much.

Keep'em come'en. 

Thanks
Les

Thanks for your comments,

ebtnut: the turn table is the Walters 130', was going to go with the 90' but then started looking at maybe getting in to some Steamer's. 

Also the actual layout size is going to be 10x6, but the XtrkCAD show's it at 10x5, the layout is a little to close to the edge for my liking, even when I have planed to put some sides around the edges, the track looks like it would be to close to the siding.

The building are just sitting close to where I want them, when I actually see the building and see how they are set-up, they will most likely be move to where the track mate up.

Les

ABC: Thanks for the tip, but I'm not planning on running any thing over 50'.

Full Maxx: The outer curves are 28" and 26".

Here is my first layout design,  it's more of a yard and maintenance theme with the out side track for running.  I've been looking it over and haven't seen any possible problem areas, but being new at this I'm probably overlooking them, so letting everyone taking a look at it will find what I've missed.

This is also my first time trying to post an image, so will see what happens.

Thanks
Les   

I understand it's good to break in a new motor for 30 minutes, but is it ran at a slow, medium, or fast speed for the 30 minutes.

Thanks
Les

Update:

Went out a bought a package of each 4 1/2 & 2 ¼ track sections, so I could add-on to the siding (works nice now when backing up to hook up the cars), also picked up two packages of the Atlas rail joiners with wires and hooked one pair to the far side of the test track (the oval that came with the set), the train was slowing down on the far side of the oval, what a difference it made on the performance.  I now know that a power connection every three feet will defiantly improve performance on the bigger layout I'm doing.

Did have a few minor problems: I broke a few of the plastic clips that hold the rail in place, luckily they were close to the edge and the rail joint and other track keeps it in place.  The train handles it all right forward and backwards.  I did figure a good way to remove them without destroying it. 

What is a good glue or procedure to use to repair the broken hold downs for the rails, I was thinking of using a drop of epoxy to secure it back down.

Has anyone tried to solder there own wire to a rail joint, I would prefer to solder on the  joints then to the rails them selves, I'm worried about the heat damaging the plastic.  I think the wire on the Atlas ones seem to small of a gauge, especially when I'm going to be using an 8 Amp booster.  I understand that it wont be drawing the full 8 Amps but what it could draw may put an overload on the small gauge wirer when a short happens, this is just speculation on my part. 

Thanks 
Les

Thanks, I kinda figured it was going to be overkill, but I rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.  Will also be taking some precautions, I'll be adding a PM-42 to break down the power distribution and programing it for a lower short cut-off.

Just so I understand the Bus wire system, that's using two wires running the length of the layout and taping off to the PM-42 and then too the DS-64's.  For the size of the layout 10X5, already looking on adding a L- Shape to it.