I would appreciate the diagram of the light sensors wired in parallel with the throws.

The turnouts are driven by tortoises, and controlled by DPDT's. Spring loaded won't work with the tortoises.

The expense is not particularly important, but simplicity of installation and then operation is.

I observe that the change in direction must go either way. If the train enters the through route, the turnout must switch to the diverging route before the loco returns. If the train enters the diverging route, the turnout must switch to the through route before the locomotive returns.

Thank you all for your thoughts. I am not able to see how to wire the light sensors in parallel for both through and diverging ways; there are only two wires between DPDT and the tortoise motors. I am not sure that this can be done?

You are great guys for helping me with this. Wonder what Jim Banner thinks. Jim, are you there?

Chris

The set I am building has reverse loops with AR-1 auto reversers. The reverse loops are part of the mainline. You can't let the train just run, you have to throw the turnout every time the train enters the loop. Is there a way to have the turnout automatically switch after the train enters the loop?

Otherwise, you really have to keep active throwing turnouts. Sometimes its nice to be able to watch the train go round and round without having to do anything.

I have considered alternatives to the reverse loop such as a connecting track; not possible because of elevation and grade changes.

Chris

Gentlemen, thank you

Fortunately, the estate locos came with their original manuals and are dcc/sound on the important locos. Probably can ID the decoder type from the manuals. The locos are spectrums and proto 2000's, and appear to have been originally purchased since 2005. All steam.

I've printed out the replies and cross references and will try to use them within the next few weeks.

I'll monitor this post for a few weeks just in case anyone else weighs in with thoughts. Again, thank you. No one to ask or demonstrate/ Oregon South Coast. This will all have to be book learnin'.

I'll try existing loco numbers before going the reprogram route

Chris

Hello All
I'm setting up a service programming track w/ a PBT-100, per Alan Gartner site. Problem is, he doesn't show whether the DPDT has crossed kitty corner wires, only the input and output wiring. Can someone tell me whether that DPDT should have the kitty corner wiring?

Also, I have bought some estate locos, most w/ MRC decoders, some are Bachmann spectrum w/ sound and DCC, and I don't know their addresses. I just acquired the Digitrax Super Empire Builder, but I'm darned if I can figure out the steps to reprogram lost addresses from the manual. Can anybody walk me through it in plain English?  Especially crossing digitrax w/ MRC?

Chris

Just bought a Bachmann Shay. Does anyone know why the Bachmann has a post offering replacement gears? Is there something wrong with the way it comes. out of the box?

Chris

Jim B

What kind of oil do you use? I would think that oil would make traction difficult for HO locos.

If that works for HO, it will sure save me a lot of time cleaning track in tunnels.

Chris

Thank you all. There are so many permutations of twists that I would at least level the trestle bridges and leave the curves and grade for the l girders were I ever to do it again. I'll keep working at it; doesn't look like I have a choice.

You've all been most helpful.

Chris

Thanks Jim Banner.

I think you have touched on the problem. The trestle bridge components are made from a well known kit provider When put together, I noticed the bridge crossties are not level. Instead of laying the track directly on the crossties, therefore, I caulked flextrack onto the bridge ties. I had hoped the caulking and flexties would even out any declivities.

I put on guardrails, inside curve. They have helped a good deal. Toothpicks under the inside tie edges also seem to help. Raising the inside of the curve with a finger seems to help. I think what is happening is a declevity is miniscule, but combined with the twist it raises the first driver off the rail. Because of the turn, it does not come back down in the right place, and the loco derails.

There is VERY little side to side play in the drivers. They are not following the diverging route on two of the Walthers DCC friendly turnouts, either. I do not know if the lack of driver play is unique to my loco, or whether it is typical of the Bachmann GS4.

Being a newbie, I do not know what you are referring to re: spring drivers?

I thought if there was an incline to the inside, the loco would be inclined to fall into the set. Outside is a loooooong drop to the concrete in what would probably be the longest (scale) locomotive fall in history. So originally there was a slight elevation to the outside rail. The problem seems to lessen when I try to level the rails. I suspect each rail has very hard to see bumps, but I do not know how to eliminate them. When you raise one place, it causes the rail to change shape further along the rail.

Gee. Now I can say I've talked with Jim Banner.
Thank you. I appreciate any more thoughts.

Chris

Gentlemen

Thank you all so much for your feedback. I think I know how to do it now.

Because this is a 4 year project (I have a professional life and twin 8 year old boys) I took on the most interesting set I could find. I only want to do this once. Combine long, curved, 2% grade to make a trestle bridges  together with DCC wiring and you have more than a challenge for a newbie.

I'm in Southern Oregon, 4.5 hours away from the nearest competent LHS. Nearest club is 3.5 hours away. Without you guys, this trainset would never be finished.

What a helpful group of real gentlemen.

(Be sure I'll bother you again).

Chris

JWard

Thank you so much for the description. Think I'd like the guardrail along the entire bridge (about 2 feet long) so it will surely cover the trouble spots.


Answer me this please. Can I use a standard code 83 rail from a section of flextrack, or do I need to find a "flange-less" rail? Or does it matter?

Chris

Thanks, narrowminded

I shimmed one tie with the smallest piece of flat styrene I had, and it fixed the dip sufficiently for the F7, but not the GS 4.

The GS-4 484 is having problems all over w/ 22" radius. What I see happening is that the second driver raises the first driver off the track. It is happening on the trestle bridges, all on the uphill. All the trestles are curved; if there are declevities, they are not big enough to see w/ naked eye.

Son (honestly) has asked Santa for a Spectrum J Class, and Santa ordered it from his elves to the great grief of Santa's pocketbook. Since it is the same sized loco (again, that's Spanish) I dread Christmas morning unless I can fix the track.

Will guardrails alleviate the problem?

Is guardrail configuration different than track?

Where do you get it?

How can you bend it to parallel the trestle bridge without using a machine?

I appreciate everyone's input. This is a tough one for me because it is more art than science.

Chris

Thanks mabloodhound. I have done that with cork roadbed for several false starts, but it doesn't work with a softwood trestle bridge. On roadbed, you can trash the track and smooth the roadbed, re-lay new track. On softwood trestle bridge, the wood rips out instead of the track.

I think I like the suggestions of adding a guardrail, because it would look good as well.

However, my internet research does not disclose whether you can use the same gauge for the guardrail (nearest LHS is 3.5 hours away to get a smaller gauge)

Also, I do not know how to bend the rail without buying an expensive rail bender from Flexx, and having to wait three weeks to get it.

Anyone have suggestions?

Chris

I used Oldtimer's method on two reverse loops recently. By the way, oldtimer, they work perfectly with the AR-1 reversing module, so thank you.

Now I have a new problem. Take a look at the general discussion board. I got the set up and running yesterday after nine months of labor, but have hit a brick wall in one respect.

Chris

Thanks Jward

It occurs to me that I might cut the trestle crossbeam supporting the track away from the uprights, and shim a tiny shim under the crossbeam on the outside. If the loco is stepping off the track to the outside of the curve consistently, what do you think of shimming the outside to creat a slight raise on the outside?

Can you direct me to a site that talks about creating a guardrail? I think you are talking about an inner parallel rail to confine the wheels to where they belong? This is curved flextrack, and I do not know how to bend a rail smoothly to exactly parallel the existing rail curve. You old-timers can probably do that in your sleep.

I'll check for a twist, but I can see nothing untoward in the rail appearance.

This 6 X  10 set lifts to the garage ceiling with an electric hoist when not in use, gets a lot of movement. Has to be sturdier than most, hence caulking and also soldering all rail joints.

Please let me know thoughts on shimming, guardrail construction.

Chris

F7 steps off track to the outside. Its a curved wooden trestle bridge with a 2% grade. Nothing I can see is lifting the truck off the rail, even when you watch the rest of the loco instead of the truck.

Cant shim the trestle, will just elevate the problem. Cant really shim under the tie, the ties are caulked to the wood and the wood will separate before the caulk does. There is no railjoint on the trestle bridge. The grade continues past the bridge.

When you push the loco by hand from behind, it stays on track. I thought the derail in only one direction should be a clue?

Chris