Ironically my  HO Connie is down due to torn wires. But I have a very sharp curved Shinohara switch to engine terminal which may be even smaller than 18". She just barely screeches through it.. Ouch ! ... 

HI, I powered up NCE. Ran 2-6-0 short distance. Blew whistle once. After that sound quit ! Headlight OK. No 'trouble code' after recycling power CV 30 to 2 or CV 8 to 8. CV 128 (volume) is at 235 not '0'. CV 29 is value 38/tried going to value 50. No dice/worse, wouldn't roll to boot. Other loco RS 3 is normal ( so, likely not NCE problem). Cognizant that loco address was possibly back to 3 or remained at #1908. Either way loco should have an idling sound while stopped. No idle, nothing.. Tried other CVs related. If CV 128 was accidentally changed on function mapping or such there STILL would be an idle... No visible decoder wires torn. If you think it IS physical( speaker blown, wire torn inside tender ) what is tender shell removal sequence ? I see tabs at rear under-frame. Are these pushed first ? Or merely lift shell's front ? Any suggestions I might try which I may have skipped ?  Much thanks,  Mark Harris

A long shot....but I happen to know that the Pasadena Central Library in Pas. Ca. has far back issues of MRRer in binders (not the binders Mitt Romney spoke of !). Maybe there's some obtuse way of getting that issue or maybe they'd copy it for you and email or snail mail it for you !!  Phone or email them....Mark (in L.A.)

Firstly: Jack, thanks for the insight on it. Yeah, makes sense. I don't know if I'm brave enough to remove the gear box plate. I did that a lot as a youngster with a couple brass ones and was never much of a problem returning drivetrain to frame. Today with the very delicate wipers against drivers worries me...One other question, related: Are the pins into the side rods (except main eccentric rod bolt)  threaded ? Or do they pull straight out under friction ? Because one test would be to run her without rods/see if waddle is gone....(could leave rods there, taped/suspended somehow).
Jerry, appreciated, but I don't yet follow. You mean go to 'search box' and enter subject ? Seems when I do that lots of related posts come up but still gotta scroll through them, and they vary greatly, No ?

Hi, I may have brought this up in past but can't find it. I am not sure if this is a common behavior of the HO mogul in that she lifts up and down whilst under way an extremely teensy amount at one per wheel Rev. I'd like to try quartering the driver myself as it might be off,  before Possibly sending her in to repair. My concern is that someone somewhere implied that the axles have splines on ends to keep drivers from changing position. I.E longitudal slots, and that I'll destroy the wheel hub if I turn it on the axle. Was this ever true ? Or, is axle smooth end to end as I'd think it is ?
Thanks, Mark

Hi, a week or two back I naively began a thread in 'Ask The Bach Man' which was counterproductive and against forum conduct. I, at the time, was not even aware I was submitting a no-no . I WAS cheating and am sorry for that. I greatly appreciate the Admin. for apparently letting me off the hook this time, as I was not able to log in for a while and became worried I had been permanently barred from Ask the Bach Man forum. I am now logged in.
This sort of post will never occur in future.
Mark

I screwed up last night and opened a can of worms merely adding weight in tender to my HO 2-8-0/sound. I'll save boring you as to how. I did and it's done ! Bachmann's repair will add up to about $60 (repair fee + shipping). Not sure if it's fair here to ask , but if you are in or near Los Angeles would you know who can do this to save costs and down time ? If so, would this then void any future repair by Bachmann on same loco?
Thanks, Mark

Jonathan, I was just gazing  again at your post here for the halibut. Noticed your air pump piston rods are not chrome colored. Mine had one but not both...If it's important to you, hit them with chrome enamel paint .  Nice little detail that's easy to overlook..

Dave, funny you caught that ! I saw the slit in the sand dome months ago but passed it up thinking it's just the way they put whole dome on...Well 2 days ago I decided to get deep into and figure this problem out already ! It is NOT rocket science !
Messed around again here and there and decided I've seen EVERY removal item as before and was about to give up after tugging on the boiler and even sliding an xacto blade between frame and shell where I could as someone suggested glue sometimes gets there at factory ! ...Then...the sand dome hits me again ! This time I popped it off and....There it was ! THE secret last screw !! Took it out and shell lifted off like butter !!!!
FINALLY !! I was not able to locate both screws of heavy weight surrounding motor but 1 screw enabled them to separate enough to get grease on the worm using a toothpick. I  then oiled behind fly wheel (also difficult not having weights off) and oiled end of motor shaft at back-head in middle of circuit board..
I put shell back on and lubed all the action and axles.....Seems to be somewhat smoother running. But CV values play a bigger part in this I believe. ...One thing is to put CV 25 to 11 or other value after its having to be at 16 to adjust CVs 67-94....   Mark

Please refer to my Jan. 14 post "  HO mogul shell removal Quest ". Thanks, Mark

Thanks. I understand now. Actually then, I was right in believing ATB was originally meant to have 1 person answer the posted questions. But it got so large it became a community, an open forum.

The first time I'd logged into AtB I was expecting to be asking Bmann representitives my questions, not the rest of the forum members. No problem. But I was always curious if this was the original intention of AtB. You know, ask the (a) Bachmann (Rep). due to the title suggesting this. Also, there are all sorts of other posts not necessarily related to Bachmann items; subjects such as, say, ' Building a wood tressle '. Or, 'What year did  Pennsy change from.....?' ...No complaint here. Again, just curious as to the original intention as meaning to be this from the get go...

IowaE, don't know if I'm jumping in too late or even positive this is your problem: In my first few months in DCC I was unaware that when an engine refused to budge, it's long or short address I'd programed into system (such as #1908. [Number on side of cab]) had been deleted somehow due to futzing around with other CV values. So, I'd go nuts as to why it was running 10 minutes ago and not now ! Turns out loco was accidentally reprogramed back to factory default address 3.  I know now to immediately go to 'Address loco' and re-address it 1908, or just hit 'select loco' and enter '3'. It will continue to run as 3 until I do give  it a different  number. 
Mark

Hi Tim and others. Tim, if you mean you purchased them from Bachmann on line purchases, not a private person, and you have a legitimate beef with item(s) they are extremely obliging and am sure they'll exchange it free of change, especially if you've mailed in the warranty card. I believe you will have to pay shipping one way though.
They have been very good over these things for me for decades. Maybe phone them first, too.   .....Mark

Quote from: richg on January 06, 2014, 09:30:38 PM
There is a HO forum here also. Some seem to miss the proper forum.
Download the loco diagram also.

2-8-0

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,13232.0.html

I use a small straight jewellers screwdriver to carefully extract a plug. Just like Jonathan in the below link. Scroll down a little.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,16616.0.html

Rich
Rich, thanks much for directing me to Jonathan's expose'.....Mark