Correction .......CV 3 and 4 have a default value of 1 and the range is 1 - 255 .

When I had the stock decoders in my 2-8-0 , 4-6-0, 2-6-0 , 2-10-2 , and 2-6-6-2 , I found that just a little went a long way for those CV's . Don't think I ever used more than a value of 10 . But with Digitrax decoders I needed to use much more delay to get the same effect . Before I started going to sound , I think I replaced all of the stock Bachmann decoders with Digitrax , and I got much better motor control . I think that maybe the stock decoders might only accept values between 0 and 15 , but I'm not sure ?

Absolutely correct Hunt , I didn't consider the Sound Value decoders .   The 2 Berks and 1 K4 I have are very good runners with the back EMF .  I probably will change out the decoders with different ones though eventually to get better sound functions . Not that there is anything wrong with the Sound Value decoders , just a personal preference .

Quote from: Maletrain on January 27, 2016, 08:25:41 PM


As for me, time to select a new decoder with quality sound and good back-EMF control features.  Already have one suggestion from the "another run" request thread on another forum.  Any other suggestions?

Steve

I just had an Econami installed in my 2-6-6-2 . The sound is very nice !  Comparing it to the TSU 750 that I installed in a 2-10-2 , I prefer the Econami over the TSU 750 .  I still have 2 more sound installs that I want done , one of them being my 2-8-0 . I will definitely be putting the Econami in both of them . Just cant beat the price , and the sound and motor control is excellent ! Also , be sure to use some kind of capacitor with the decoder to prevent short power dropouts .

 It probably does not have BEMF . I haven't seen any Bachmann N scale locos with it yet .  You may be able to fit a different decoder into the loco , but it's not something I have done on this particular loco . I have done a few of the steam locos , and it isn't too hard .

You don't really need to "see" the cv settings , I usually just program on the main track using ops mode .Put the loco on the main track ,  When you hit program the first time it says program on main , hit enter then .  then it will say program loco # 705 , hit enter again . Then the next screen gives you 3 options . Hit 2=CV . Then the next screen will ask you which CV , enter the number 8 , then enter 8 again . this should reset everything back to factory .  As Kewatan has said , I don't use the momemtim button either , I always set CV 3 & 4 to set accel and decell .

No , it should run fine on DC power . As they come from the factory , the decoder should sense either DC or DCC .  Do other locos run on the same track ?  If so it's probably a pick - up that got knocked loose during shipping . You could try taking the shell off to se if anything looks out of place .

Leave all of the rods connected , and only take them out as far as you have to . It's a split frame ?  Usually you can remove the cylinders and wheels as a unit .

There is an AnyRail forum out there , maybe they would be able to walk you through it ?  I've used anyrail , and like it , but I've used a different track library in my designs .

 Also I have 2 of them one does run a bit better than the other and I did have to change the back EMF CV's on both of them .

 Some of these locos have a slight binding problem from the factory . If it's not too bad changing the BEMF CV's will smooth it out . Change CV209 to 230 , cv210 to 30 , cv212 to 150 , cv213 to 2 and cv214 to 3 . This should smooth out the slow speed running , if not you may want to send it in to the repair dept .
As far as sound goes , this is a stripped down version of a Soundtraxx decoder and does not have dynamo rod clank or coupler clank . The air pump should work though , it's vol is on cv132. The grainy sound could be that you have the sound turned up too loud , mine sound good , but I run the sound at a low volume .

Have you tried a decoder reset ?  Setting CV 8 to 8 resets the decoder to factory original . It will run on address 3 after the reset . 

I really have no idea, I'm just guessing . I would think there would be an electronic switch at either end that would reverse the train . But , I read that there is a wire between each end , so that is where I would guess that you would just have to extend the wire if you use regular track . Either way it should be fairly easy to figure out , it shouldn't be Rocket Science ....LOL . If it's something you want , I'd say go for it , and someone here will help you figure it out . BTW there are other Model railroad related boards that are a lot more active if you do a google search . I , and a few others here , post at different places .

I think there is just a wire that would run from one end of the track to the other . I don't see why you couldn't use regular track and just use some wire to connect the ends where you need it .

 If you put them both on the track , but do not connect them together , do they both still stall ?  If so it may be a short circuit somewhere in the F7 .  If the other loco keeps running I would look for a bad contact point again in the F7 .