Quote from: Chris350 on February 17, 2010, 01:53:44 AM
This is aimed toward the tinkerers in the group.  What are the most common nuts used in the assembly of HO?  Are they metric or standard?  I want a set of precision nutdrivers and never thought about which to buy, till now.  Of course I was in my local shop (two actually) today and forgot to grab a set.  Micro-Mark has a couple of sets, as do a number of other sources.  Anyone find one brand to be better quality than another?
Thanks!
Chris

Depends on what you are tinkering with - Mantua (before Model Power purchase), Bowser, MDC/Roundhouse (before Athearn purchase), and others, you need inch.  If your working Bachmann, BLI, PCM, Roco, P2K, and many others, you need metric.

This is a great source of information on sizes:
http://www.newmantools.com/taps/micro.htm

If you are doing tinkering, you'll also want a tap set.

Some sources for small hardware and tools:
http://www.smallparts.com/
http://www.nwsl.com/
http://www.microfasteners.com/
http://www.drillbitcity.com/catalogue/25_piece.asp?Pt=2&St=&Sc=
http://www.toolsgs.com/
http://www.widgetsupply.com/
and there are undoubtedly others.

Quote from: jonathan on February 17, 2010, 05:05:17 PM
Quryous,

If you don't have a caliper or fine scale ruler, a good rule of thumb is freight uses 33" and passenger uses 36".  There are exceptions, but this is a good 'go-by'.

Regards,

Jonathan

Except for modern 100ton frieght cars, which are almost always 36"; and the newest 125ton coal cars which have 38" wheels.  Autoflats often have 28" wheels, and intermodal double stacks are often a mixture with 70ton trucks at the ends (33" wheels) and 125 ton trucks in the middle (38" wheels).

Quote from: just427 on February 17, 2010, 08:47:29 PM
thx was not shure if it would burn out decoder on dc tryed it it works great even with direction lighting it a a gp35 desiel

It will not hurt the decoder to run on DC.  The locomotive will operate better on DC if follow the advice about removing the decoder, and installing the jumpers - if this is an option on your particular model.

In DCC On Board locomotives, Bachmann provides a very basic decoder, basically for free compared with same locomotive without a decoder.  You usually get pretty close to what you pay for.....

It is kinda like tires on a new vehicle, if you want rugged tires, you replace the OEM equipment. 

Hi Les;

One thing that many articles recommend is not having the track parallel to the edges of the layout.

You may also want to consider a scenic divider.

Also, like a real railroad, what is the purpose of the railroad?  Define some economic reason for its existence.

The above will keep the layout interesting over a longer term.

Have fun.

Back in the old days (before DCC, GE mainline diesels, etc), many people used automotive choke cables (visit an auto parts store) which are very similar to the cables on push style lawn mowers.  Look at some older Model Railroader or Railroad Model Craftsman magazines, many hobby stores have older magazines for sale.

For an example:
http://www.model-railroad-infoguy.com/manual-turnout-control.html

If you are patient, the model can be made to run, but in addition to many hours of your time, it is going to cost you over $100-

You can get another locomotive for about the same price, but the UP Overland is no longer available. It was not an accurate model of a Union Pacific locomotive. So unless there is a great deal of sentimental attachment, I would recommend junking. If there is sentimental reasons, consider using epoxy to put if back together, and using at as a static display piece, like in a park on your layout.

I believe that you have something like this (possibly a different color):
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-U-P-4-8-4-Northerns-for-parts-both-union-pacific_W0QQitemZ160403144772QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item2558c5c044

One option is a Bowser chassis - the NYC Niagara version, Northern version or GS4 version can be adapted to your model.  Telephone Bowser for availability.
http://bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/mechanisms/mechanisms.htm

If it were me, I would purchase this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-Bowser-Cast-Brass-Locomotive-Chassis-w-Motor_W0QQitemZ130365967738QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item1e5a6acd7a
which is NOT a Bowser chassis, and adapt it.  A new motor, flywheel, some NWSL part, and it should work out.

There really is not a fix, just replacement.

Cyanopoxy http://www.mrhobby.com/Cyantips.html might work, if you can line everything up perfectly - the downside is that a whole new locomotive of improved construction would not cost a whole lot more.

You did not state which 4-8-4 you had, which means my answer is not precise.  There may be different answers for different models.  If the model is in warranty, telephone the service department and talk to them about your options.

Quote from: chaynes on February 11, 2010, 03:39:37 PM
If you were going to use true track or ez track and wanted to cover the plastic roadbed with a ballast gravel, what type of glue would work best?

I'd just paint the road bed with latex paint, then sprinkle on the ballast.

Heavy USRA 4-8-2s built by Alco's Brooks works in 1919 (K-2, 116-125) and Baldwin (K-2a, 126-137) in 1923. from:
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/mountain/?page=nw

and rebuilt in 1946 with streamlining added.

The N&W had so much trouble with the J1's availability compared to the standard J's due to it's heavy rod, that the War Production Board allowed them to be rebuilt during WWII to J standards with light weight Timken side rods - and even allowed the streamlining.

A very nice model of the streamlined K2/K2a locomotive can be made from the original Bachmann J shell (also used on the Plus model), on a USRA Mountain chassis (Light or Heavy).  A while back there were some photos here of an example, not sure if they still are.

Quote from: lexon on February 07, 2010, 08:27:14 PM
....
Some people use a full wave bridge rectifier, super capacitor and voltage regulator to convert the DCC to straight DC to prevent flickering.
.......

Make sure you add a resistor to the above so that there is not too much load on the DCC booster after a shut down.

From the wheels, it should be current limiting resistor, bridge rectifier, small capacitor, voltage regulator, super capacitor, lights (LEDs or low voltage bulbs).

On another matter - Kato had some lighted passenger cars a few years back that would melt due to light bulb heat on DCC, the bulbs did not burn out.......

Hi Rocky;

I am guessing that you mean this one:
http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/bachmannhoscalelocomotives/id56.html

ABC is partially correct - they are not good runners.  They are actually a fairly accurate model of a Reading I10 2-8-0 (and very similar to L&HR's 90 class).

http://www.ho-scaletrains.net/bachmannhoscalelocomotives/id49.html

The 2-8-2, just had the trailing truck crammed in there.

Also see:
http://lhr.railfan.net/roster.htm

http://www.eddystonelocomotives.com/overhauls.htm
as noted in the above link, Bowser offered a conversion chassis, and may have some left in stock.
http://bowser-trains.com/hoemrrs/mechanisms/351%20old.pdf

http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/article.php?article=2605

Quote from: Blink_182_Fan on February 06, 2010, 10:27:05 PM
Ok, this is kind of a product review, but its kind of not. I just recieved this for my birthday party today, and at first, I thought it was good. You have to put the weights in yourself, which I was fine with. So, I took off the coil part, knowing that that's where they go. The parts don't stay on as well now, ever since I have took it off. Also, the top handrails, or whatever they are, already broke. They randomly broke by my finger lightly running over it on accident. So, this is not the best car, but it is alright. Details are good, but it does'nt hold together well.

You sound too young for a finely detailed model like Red Caboose (and InterMountain, Kadee, etc).

A digital caliper, like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257
I have had mine for more than a decade, and use it more than I ever dreamed I would.  I have another on my desk at work for easy access there too.

Assorted pliers and tweezers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95426
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93598

And Xuron rail cutters
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR2175B

And if you build kits, sprue cutters
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR410A

Please note that the above sources are ones of many, and were chosen because they had pictures and some information.

Quote from: jettrainfan on February 02, 2010, 09:34:32 PM
Must have. I have 2 favorites, B&O & ATSF. #1 problem, Who has seen a B&O with a ATSF?! strange isn't?

St Louis Union Station

My focus is N&W, 1950 to 1955.  I do have a couple of later diesels, and do accept demonstrators that were used during that time period.  In recent years I have cut my locomotive collection to about a quarter of its maximum count, and will probably add a few more in the future - some 4-8-0s especially.