Hi Gene: It does not matter what rail you make the common rail as long as your consistent. For a circle layout it can be the inner rail or for a linear layout it can be the north rail.

Dave

Do not use your backsaw. All model shops sell Razer saws which are best for using on plastic models. It will cut through the track and plastic roadbed cleaner than a backsaw. If you are going to do alot of track cutting I suggest you get a pair of Xurion rail nippers for cutting the track and use the razer saw on the roadbed.

Dave

Hi Zanthian:

2) Industries to service with this layout?
Answer- what ever you want.
3) What years do these two diesel engines represent
Answer- the EMD FT-A 1939 to present but only on secondary lines and tourist railroads after the 70s,
- the EMD GP 40; 1965 to the present
4) General recommendations
Answer- its your railroad, have fun with it

Dave

This is a common problem with the Consul and here are the ways to fix it. Ream out the holes on the draw bar a little with a dill bit to give it a little play. Just hold the bit in your hand, don't use the drill. I have done this with my Consols and it helps. I also add weight  in the tender over the front truck, as I do with all my tenders, 2 ounces will do and pull in the wire harness into the tender. Make sure the wires are distributed evenly on each side of the drawbar and are not crossing. Make sure the Cab apron isnt binding and forcing the tender up. I had to file mine a bit to get around 18" curves.

Dave

Hi Arthur: Bachman offers 4-4-0 in 3 scales, HO, ON30 and G, if you tell us what scale you have it will help in identifying your problem.

Dave

It does not matter what lead is negative, It changes when you reverse the controller. When setting up block control divide your rails into either- outside rail or inside rail or alternativly- north or south rail and make sure the one connection from the controller is only connected to that specific rail.

Dave

Another good product is NEOLUBE. It blackens metal, is conductive and is a lubicant.

Dave

First see if there is a problem, then try using additional power feeders. Make sure your track connections are tight and the rail is clean.

Dave

Neville; ream out the holes on the draw bar a little with a dill bit to give it a little play. Just hold the bit in your hand, don't use the drill. I have done this with my Consols and it helps. I also added weight in the tender over the front truck. I always add weight to my Tenders as it helps them to track better. In the real world Tenders were prone to derail, especially backing up. Also manipulate the wires a a little to soften them up and make sure they are evenly spaced on both sides of the draw bar.

Dave

A power feeder is just the wires that transfer the power to the rails and in the case of DCC, the signal also. You can solder directly to the rails or rail joiners or buy Atlas terminal rail joiners and simply pigtail onto the ends of the wires if they are too short. Atlas sells layout wire and if you just by wire at a electical supply store I suggest 18 guage wire.

Dave

To pull more cars use a engine with traction tires, AHM  engines are very low quality and Marklin locomotives are AC and will not operate on your DC set.

Dave

With a small layout like yours with one engine its unlikely you will need a 5 amp boaster and just adding more power feeders spaced along the rails will deal with any power drop.

Dave

I have always thought that the engine of a steam locomotive consisted of the Valve chamber, piston cylender, connecting rods and drivers.

Dave

Hi Samantha: click the product search button on the Home page and look up that item and it will tell you everything about this Set.

Dave

He means that it no longer functions as track that can be easily taken apart and repositioned which is the "raison d'etre" for EZ track.

Dave