Okay. Anyone following this site knows I'm a newbie. I finally powered up my 9 month track and wiring project and test ran DCC locos on the track.

One exact spot on a trestle derails the F7 every time going in one direction. Coming the opposite direction, the loco does just fine. Its Code 83 flextrack.

I have:

1) felt along and cleared inside of rails.
2) checked rail spacing w/ track gauge
3) bent hose on front coupler so it doesn't drag.
4) watched closely to insure fuel tank clears track
5) put a level along the rail on each rail.
6) Run a 4 8 4 over the same spot with the same result as the F7 experienced.

The level shows a tiny sliver (paper thickness) of air  between level and track surface on one rail near the spot, but it looks too small to make any difference.  It would be the dickens to correct. It is always the front truck of the diesel that derails.

Why would it derail going right to left, but not left to right? I am out of ideas, and I don't want to build the trestle bridge all over again. It is a 2% grade, derailing going up hill.

To forestall the ineveitable question, locos are a Bachmann standard DCC F7, and Bachmann GS-4 Daylight

Anyone have the same experience? What to do?

I begin to understand why they are called "locos". It's Spanish.

Chris

Nope. Didn't melt anything. Also, dismantled one after soldering to see if that had happened. Also, tried two toggles in case one was defective. Neither worked even though wired as Len suggested.

A plague on all their houses! I am sticking with Radioshack on these puppies. Thank you all.

Chris

Thanks all. I tried the 3pdt wiring suggested by several of you, but it still didn't work. I broke down and bought some Radio Shack DPDTs, and they work fine. Just had to do all that mini wiring again. Don't know why your suggestions did not succeed, but maybe there is more than one design of 3 pole.

Anyway, things work beautifully with the dpdts, and I thank you all for replying.

Chris

PS

The toggle stays in one place, and does not flip into an intermediate position.

Chris

Gents

The turnouts are Walthers "DCC Friendly", so that there is no tension applied to the rails except through the tortoise.

The manufacturer is a chinese establishment, their website is no help, the website does not appear to recognize American email addresses, and I do not speak Mandarin.

The toggle has no numbers, just T80-T.

I have also read recently that the internal tension of the tortoise is sufficient to keep turnout rails in position even without power,

I will check Len's wiring suggestions tonight or this weekend. Please keep an eye out for me, and I will let you know the results.

Does anyone have recommendations for a brand and part number for mini DPDT that will work best with tortoise if Len's wiring does not work and I need to buy new toggles? Do I need to worry about momentary pulse v continuous current with this apparently 3Pdt toggle?


Thanks for your help and attention. This stuff is beyond my capabilities.

Chris

Good Morning Oldtimer. good to hear from you again

I figured that one out already, because in my frustration I dismantled one of the darn things. The toggle pushed two internal rocker arms down on the opposite side of the toggle. However, they parallel, but do not cross, the outside center poles. I can see how the juice goes into the unit, but do not see how it leaves for the tortoise

Gee, Ken. I just wired them per your suggestion, still didn't work. Bypassed the switch, and tortoise still works as it should. Double checked all the solder connections on the toggle, no shorts, everything solid. Can anybody help?

Does anyone have suggestions as to a source, brand, and part number for appropriate dpdt for tortoise? The part listed on Alan Gartner's DCC site is out of stock. Prefer mini=toggles.
Chris

Thanks, Ken
Don't know how I got 3pdt when I ordered dpdt's. There are two "on" indicators, so I suspect there are two on positions.

Will using the 3pdt wired as described affect the tortoise motor or performance, do you know?

Alright Folks
Here I am, wiring DPDT toggles to tortoise. Problem is, I bought Salecom T80-T toggles. They have 9 posts on the underside for wiring. I wire corner posts diagonally, power in through outer posts on one end, wires to Tortoise from center posts. It doesn't work. Tested tortoise, which works fine. Most articles refer to a DPDT with six posts on the bottom. I gotta think a 9 post is wired differently.

Suggestions? Very frustrating after soldering all those diagonals.

Whoops! I meant Narrowminded, not Doneldson's reply. My bad. Chris

Thanks to everyone for replying. I have a followup to Donelson and anyone else who can advise. My LHS (200 miles away) instructed that I power my eleven turnouts using my old MRC power pack set at 12 volts. Donelson's reply that he likes 3 volts for performance and aesthetics makes me worry that twelve volts will somehow fry the tortoise motors? I had intended to wire the dpdts to a common busswire to the MRC, with turnouts on sidings and crossovers wired from both tortoises to the center prong of the dpdt.

I am a newbie, do know the references to "stall". Chris

Dear Folks
I am installing siding and crossover turnouts. Tortoise motors, dpdt control. If I want two turnouts to switch simultaneously, is there anything wrong with wiring both turnouts to the same toggle? Seems to me this would apply to both crossovers and sidings. Don't want one turnout to change without the mirror image doing the same.
Turnouts have a separate power source, not powered by the tracks.

OldTimer

Thanks for helping me. I have Walthers DCC friendly turnouts (#6) which appear to have insulated frogs.

I don't have technical skill to email the track plan. Can you give me a fax #?

My email is Keusink@charterinternet.com if you want to email a fax #.

Thank you so much.

Chris

Oh my aching head.

Allan Gartner's
DCC site says do not attach the reverse loop to the main buss; only to the AR unit. He doesn't mention additional feeders or a sub-buss coming off a terminal strip. I am soldering the flextrack (Atlas code 83) because it will be under a mountain. Also, I have a power hoist to raise and lower the set from the garage ceiling, which stops somewhat abruptly so the set must be solidly built.

So, even though not mentioned, I can power the reverse loop with a sub-buss and feeders soldered to every section of flextrack? (using 12 g busswire, if it matters, with suitcase joiners to feeders).

Also, a british model railroad site says use SIX insulators for a single crossover and reverse loop (newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Forums on Wednesday Jan 14 2009), one set of insulators on the throughway, one set where the diverging ways join, and one set on the throughway of the parallel track.

I had the impression that I only needed FOUR, one set on crossover diverging track, and one set on the throughway at the end of the loop.


Sure wish an old linguist or an old techy initialed "JB" would set me straight.

Chris

Dear Narrow

It isn't a dogbone. A dogbone is the closest thing to it. Its parallel tracks about 4 inches apart which create a loop, with a single crossover between the two tracks. I guess you could call it a really SKINNY dogbone

Now that we have the insulated gap and power section issues resolved, any suggestions on where the bus and feeders go on the reverse loop? I presume the buswire can come off a terminal busbar, and the feeders begin immediately after the first gap and end at the end of the loop?

I have the Kalmbach book on wiring, but it doesn't address more than a basic reverse loop.

Chris