Hi to all. A week ago many of you chimed in on my 2-8-0 shell. This was super as I finally did get it removed !! Jonathan in here had great pics of process ! One little mistake I made was I didn't wipe off the original grease but did add new grease (with Teflon). I did not split the weights to get to motor because several folks have stated we don't need to. I am a tad skeptical about this as a shaft is turning in a bearing. Thus there must be friction of some small amount. But I'll wait to see what you say on that.
On to the mogul : I removed draw bar, pilot truck, the support rods at smoke box and the only visible screws remaining (other than the gearbox cover screws), the two under the cab. What did I miss ? I'm betting it's under smoke box between cylinders. Yet the gear box cover extends all way to pilot thus covering bottom of smoke box. The cab wiggles and lifts a smidge but other than that I can not get shell to budge. It's like it's welded on ... I'm afraid of cracking something. Are those tabs I see under cab sides at frame ? I tried spreading cab sides, but this didn't work either. What gives ?!          Mark

Jonathan, many many thanks for pics  and explanations of shell removal and lubing.
I successfully completed my very first lube of my HO Connie due to this !! I know not why this isn't part of the Spectrum CD : " Maintenance " (main page title) " Steamer shell removal, and Drive Train lubrication " ( not to be confused with steamer-clam shells !). Great post !! Now comes my mogul...I'm sure it's quite similar.
Not sure who brought it up (above) but, yeah those decoder wires are quite pesky on this loco! I and several others experienced the tender lifts up its front truck due to this !!
Note that if you do put drawbar pin in 2nd hole the tender is then overly far from engine, a tad toyish
Mark

Sorry if too late or not the problem but, my HO RS3 gets stuck with motor humming and wheels spinning. Now I'm on to it. The speaker in bottom (magnetic) collects loose spikes in the grill which wind up vertical in holes and snag track parts, switch frogs, et al. I was freaking out til I caught this . Now I immediately recognize it , lift her up and pull em out !!!

Go to your Tsunami "Soundtraxx  Steam user's Guide" manual ( at Tsunami.com...Read on line or print it out ).  Go to Pgs. 15/16. Read all. On Pg. 16  "Table 'A' Quick Reference table for CV 29 values ".  Change  CV29 to a value of either 38 (notice info to left of value) Or might be CV 29 to value 50 (notice info) Enter one or other in your throttle (with  2-6-0- in the screen). Scroll to 'Loco Address' prompt', hit enter. You should now be able to give loco a long address. Enter numbers. You can not fry anything, ever in programing steps. So don't be nervous or scared. You'll eventually nail it ...Mark

Yeah , all of Jonathan's pics/explanations should be a regular addition in the loco boxes !!

Thanks very much for all the explanations. I feel a lot more confident about it now. Great to know gear box cover is a no-no !
Mark

To make it easy merely put steps involved in a list, first to last, to remove shell form an HO 2-6-0 and a 2-8-0. No involved explaining necessary. Like:
1) unplug decoder wires (with finger nails or how ?)
2)(if need be) remove such and such grab irons/pipes
3) remove these screws (and exactly where)
4) lift/pull shell toward (which way)
5) (if need be) remove gear box cover
6) lube these parts: ----------
etc, etc. 
Much thanks, Mark

Thanks to all for the advice. My biggest problem is removing shells of HO 2-8-0 and 2-6-0. I mix up which screws under cabs (front is the screw above the pilot truck into smoke box [I think]. If past this then shell is still tight and am afraid of breaking something. What else needs to come off; grab irons or smoke box support rods (diagonals from box to pilot). Is there a detailed video of this ? The exploded schematic  that comes with them is not clear. Screws parts are there but it'd be nice if these pics pointed out exactly which screws need be undone for lubing. The gearbox plate on bottom scares me when the wipers start coming out, too.   

Hi, I may have asked this before but not sure:  A very gifted modeler I know said that the motor bearings need not be lubed, only the axles and running gear (rods , crosshead, guides, crank, etc.. Is this correct ? I'd love to hear "yes" as I always have problems trying to remove shells and wind up skipping this out of fear I'll snap something.. 3 Bach HO;  2-8-0, 2-6-0, RS3 ....Mark   

Hunt, yeah after I sent message I did think 204 was too high to be a short address but I figured he'd get the idea anyway. Was surprised Dynamis has this 'naming' feature. Seems a tad redundant as we who own the loco know all the important facts ( type of loco like : SD 9/SP or Ma & PA 2-8-0 ). I'd think this function could be put to better use. As I said I never heard of Dynamis. I guess it's Bachmann's digital system. Maybe it's better than NCE !

No knowledge about Dynamis  but with NCE you scroll to 'address loco'. loco is factory default 3. If short address is desired (like 204) then enter 'Short Add.' OR, enter 'long ADD.' (like 3257). Now enter it's new address and it should run if same or similar to NCE throttle. I never heard of entering a name. What is this ? You mean like " Old Reliable " or " Betsy" ? Or name of RR such as L&N RR or  US Steel , or the Maumee Route ? Who adds anything but loco's address ? Guess this is a Dynamis feature. 

IF engine is DCC not analog DC, go to 'select loco' and try Address 3, enter 3 (factory default address for engines not yet programmed with a new address such as #2406, say. Or conflict with engine analog and throttle digital/vise versa. A digital engine CAN run on an old analog power pack if engine is programmed for 'analog mode'. But an analog engine (old DC current) will not run on a digital throttle.

Rich, I just said that. My question is whether or not RS3 HAS 'mute' capability. OR, you mean RS3 manual SAYS button 8 to mute this engine ; that there is something wrong if it doesn't mute ?

Yes, that's my guess too. In Tsunami locomotive manual at 'programing the decoder' find CV 29/table A . Put CV 25 to 16 value. May or my not need to also go into 'binary' on your throttle and make CV29 bit 4 =1, enter. Try other two steps first . Now, in table A find down the list the value of CV 29 which sets your loco to "Normal" (direction )/"analog(or DC) yes"/ and " long or short address " (address of this engine as if in DCC mode ). Using a friend's DCC layout perform this programing and your loco should now be analog mode/DC. Later on make CV 29 =50 (usually) to go BACK to DCC.

Does the HO RS3 have no sound mute function ? When I hit button 8 on my NCE PCab sound does no shut off. Others do.