Are you asking about the two axle "TROLLEY" or the four axle Peter Witt"STREETCAR?

You might ask your question over on the <mylargescale.com> site. Use the beginners forum.  There are modelers over there who make layouts with tighter curves than 2' radius.  Be sure to be specific on the type of car.

Chuck

There are some additional things consider when using 2' radius and tighter curves.  Just because an engine, trolley, or car will go through that curve, it doesn't mean that it is good to run it through those curves on a regular basis.  There will be a lot of wear on the track from the wheels on the motor block grinding the inside of the rail head.  A friend of mine runs his LGB Stainz all day every day and every couple of years he has to replace the curved track (LGB R1 4'd), because the gauge has increased enough so that the engine falls off the inside rail.  There is also added stress to the gears and motor.  If you have limited space, you might consider a point to point layout.  This could be done with minimal, or no use of curved track.  There are several reversing units available on the market.

Here is a picture of a worn rail head on LGB R1 curved track after several years of heavy use, by an LGB Stainz (2.83" wheel base).  A shorter wheel base might work better.  I don't know the wheel base on the Bachmann Trolley and streetcar.

Thanks "K".  I appreciate the input.

Chuck

Thanks Bill!

I'm not in the market for a new engine, I was just wondering.  It has been in the box for over 25 years.  I thought I might put it to use.  Perhaps I'll bring it out and put it under the water tank or coaling station, since it isn't track powered, I won't have to worry about it moving.  I repainted and relettered it for the D&RGW, so it will fit in with the rest of the rolling stock.

Chuck

I'm in agreement with Hunt, Kevin, and Bill.  However, I have a question for them or any one else who might have an answer.

I have one of the original battery/RC engines.  Can the new replacement motor block assemblies be used in the version 1 bodies, or does it require a lot of surgery?

Chuck

I don't do DCC, but my impression is that you need the instructions from the manufacturer of the DCC unit, not Bachmann.

There are too many different units available for Bachmann to provide instructions and there are always newer and improved DCC units coming out. 
Chuck

Analog is the traditional track power.  Variable DC voltage from a power supply.  

Chuck

Note added.  While I used analog power for my layout, I do have a remote control unit.  I have a radio controlled unit that is between my power supply and the track.  It is not DCC.  I can stop, start, change speed and direction.  It is a Bridgewerks UR-15.  It controls the voltage and polarity of the electricity going to the track.  I like it because I can control the train from anywhere in the yard and I don't have to put a DCC controller in each engine.

I understand that "G-scale graphics" has a similar type of remote unit.

I have been using analog power on my layouts for over 30 years.  For me I cannot see enough benefits to  going to DCC.  Not to mention the expense of converting 20 plus engines to DCC.  I do have several engines set up for battery/RC.  This is so that I can run on layouts that don't have track power.

Is there any lettering on the tender (coal car behind the engine)?  Are the cars freight or passenger and is there any lettering on them?

If there is a name on the tender and or cars what is it?

Chuck

I agree with Bill about checking the fits of the Bachmann trucks on the Aristo cars.  I have discovered over the years that trucks can be swapped between some manufacters and not others.  The diameter of the post that comes from the car body is too large to fit through the hole on some the trucks.  

I'd just buy the Bachmann metal wheels and exchange those for the plastic ones.

I have a number of AristoCraft cars and because the Aristo couplers don't mate easily with any other coupler manufacturer, I cut the end of the coupler tongue off right behind the coupler, leaving a long clean shank (about 1 3/8" long) on the truck.  Are you running your cars with the lower straight shank couplers, or have you converted to body mounted couplers?

I use body mounted height and screw a USAtrains knuckle coupler to the top of the coupler tongue.  If you are using the lower body mounted height you can attach a Bachmann knuckle coupler to the bottom of the Tongue.  Kadee make truck mounted couplers that attach to the bottom of the tongue.  A straight shaft coupler is #789 (I think) and a step up coupler is #831.

In all likely hood your Aristo trucks are a modern Bettendorf style and 1:29 scale.  Your Bachmann trucks are the older Archbar style trucks and 1:22.5/24 scale.  The difference may not bother you, but they do look different.

Chuck

The term "Annie" is short for "Anniversary ".  About 10 or so years ago Bachmann came out with an upgraded version of the Big Hauler 4-6-0 that came in the sets.  It had a more robust drive train and metal side rods.  I believe that it was brought out to celebrate  the introduction of the Big Hauler "G" gauge sets.

If you are logged in to the Bachmann site and not just looking, you will see a box with "reply" above and below the posts you are reading.  Click on one or the other and you will get a text box.

You have to be logged in!!

Chuck

Michael


If it is just for Christmas, 5' diameter would be better, but 4' would work.  Just not for a long running layout.

Chuck

The minimum radius is 2', but most of us would recommend a practical minimum radius of 4'.  While the engine will run on the 2' radius curves, it will not be a happy camper.  There will be significant ware and tear on the track, wheels, and gears, if it is run a lot on the tight curves.  Under the Christmas tree is fine.  But if you want a layout to run on a regular basis I'd recommend a wider radius.

In "G" we talk about diameter, while those in smaller scales use radius.  It can be confusing.

Chuck

Straw

If you new set has steel tubular track It will not be easy to connect it to any of the solid track, brass, stainless steel, aluminum, etc.  The steel track is OK indoors, but if you are planning to set up your train outside, it will very quickly rust.

If you are going to have a permanent setup indoors or out.  I would recommend getting larger diameter curves.  The largest that will fit you proposed space.  The 2' radius (4' Diameter) curves that come with the set are OK for under the Christmas tree.  However, if used on a regular basis they will add to the wear and tear of the wheels, track, and gears. 

Chuck

This is why I said that it is a difficult question.

Different manufacturers use different plastics.  Some may change their plastics over time.  I have heard that when LGB production went from Germany to China there was a change in plastic.  Now that it is made in Hungary, who knows, not me.

I have two Accucraft flat cars that if run in the sun warped.  Fortunately, upon cooling the the shape returned.  I now run it with loads to shade the deck.

Things, left out or run in the sun seem, in my experience, more susceptible to problems, than rolling stock in storage.  But very high storage temperatures, are beyond my experience.  High temperatures seem OK.

If it gets to hot, the lubricants in engines could be degraded.

Chuck

This is a difficult question.

We have a house in the Phoenix area of Arizona.  In the summer the temperature can reach around 115F.  We are not there in the summer and my trains are stored in the garage, where there is no heating or cooling.  I have no idea as to the maximum temperature reached in the garage, but I have not detected any problems.  I take most of my frequently used engines in to the house where the temperature is set to 85 F.

I have a mixture of Bachmann, LGB, and USAT cars.  The engines are LGB and AristoCraft.

If you are building a shed, I'd recommend a light colored roof and lots of vents near the floor and roof.  This should help move the hot air up and out, a little.

Chuck

I use Stan Cedarleaf for all my decals.  They are excellent. I have use him for many different projects.  He does custom as well at established Railroads.

http://gold.mylargescale.com/stancedarleaf/webpagedecals/customdecalsx.html

If he doesn't have it in his library, he will work with you to create what you want.

Chuck

One project was to reletter 32 LGB iron ore cars to the DM&IR.  The original cars were Pennsylvania and Santa Fe.

Each car has a different number and the other lettering on the side matches that number.



He also did the custom lettering on my Shay.



Another custom project.



Lastly, I had four Bachmann J&S passenger cars that needed lettering for the Colorado and Southern, they worked out very fine.