Good News!

Southeast trains is alive and well. I finally got through to them on the phone this morning after about ten tries.

They have moved to a bigger place.
Since their web site has not been updated with their new address, I'll post it here in case anyone in the area needs to visit them.

Southeast Trains
5003 Wrightsboro Road
Grovetown Ga.

They are about 5 miles closer for me to travel there, (every little bit helps.)

They said my Shay is probably in the middle of some pallets that have not yet been unpacked. It will be a couple more weeks before I can go get it, but I'm glad I found out where it is. Can't wait to see this monster run.

Hunt, This was paid for a couple months ago, so, too late. Besides, I've dealt with Southeast several times and bought lots of locos from them. They are really nice to do business with. I know they were moving to a new location, just don't know where. Their phone issues are likely due to moving and may be beyond their control. I don't think I have an "issue" with them, just not able to find them. I was disappointed that I made a 600 mile trip without anything new in the garden to show for it, but I'm sure it will be resolved eventually. I just really need to find them, they also have a dozen ore cars I want to buy.

Brian,

You're the man! I didn't even realized they were in GR. Darn, I even had the mag with me and knew they had an 800 number but didn't have it in my phone. I'll call them Monday and I'm sure I'll get an address so next trip I'll know for sure where they moved to before I drive there.

B0B

Does anyone have a current phone or address for an Bachmann dealer, "Southeast Trains" in Auburn Ga

The last information I have is from their website:
http://www.southeasttrains.com/

SOUTHEAST TRAINS
3105 SPRING GROVE DRIVE, BLDG G
AUGUSTA, GA 30906
USA

Tel: 706-796-0052
Fax: 706-772-9992

I tried all last week to get a hold of them, The phone goes to voice mail. I've left them several messages.

A couple months ago I bought a bunch of locos from them. I brought all of them back with me except the 3 truck Tsunami Shay and one other. They where having a hard time finding those two and I was running out of room in the van.

I was hoping to get the Shay in time to run on the fourth, but, not being able to contact them, I drove to Augusta Friday. All I found was a empty building, no notice of where they moved to. The landlord for the office park was of no help. I'm still not able to contact them.

Any help as to where they moved or any name or numbers for the owner would be a big help.

B0B

Quote from: Tim Brien on June 28, 2007, 04:31:42 AM
... the grease that you have described is definately not the grease that I have ever received from a Bachmann authorised dealer. 

Tim, I have come across the jars of Bachmann grease at hobby shops in the past.

I did not buy them because they didn't have the other Bachmann lubes to go with them, ....
and....
They looked dried out to me. They were shriveled up, and hard.

But... I do remember seeing ONE jar that is exactly what you described, a hardened lump AND thin oil, in the same jar.

Apparently the shelf life is not all that long on the grease. Besides. knowing these hobby shops down here, most of what they have on the shelves is over 10 years old.

You might want to try ordering direct from the on-line store on this site. That is where I got mine. And once I cooled it down in the frig, it looks exactly as Bachmann describes, a pink solid, sort of a cross between grease and Jello.

You mention using LGB grease, but. considering the huge differences between the materials in LGB and Bachmann locos, I have no idea if the LGB grease is acceptable. I'd rather not use something different unless Bachmann makes an official statement as to which other products are OK to use. So far, I am not aware of any such statement.

Besides... Now that this site carries individual bottles and jars, I finally have a source, so, unless there is compelling evidence that another product works better AND is approved by Bachmann, then I see no reason for me to try some other product.

Hi Tim
Your description sure does not match mine.
Mine came as a nearly clear liquid. Not a solid and liquid that had separated. I put in the refrigerator and it turned into a gel. Again, not a solid and liquid. I took it out of the frig and left it on my workbench and the entire contents went back to a liquid.

I have seen an older jar of the grease in a hobby shop. I believe the jar was larger, but could be wrong. Inside that jar was a small hard shrunk up material that looked like pink soap, no liquid there at all. When I pressed on the soap it broke into several chunks.

I upgraded all my 4 foot diameter track to larger radius about 8 years ago.

I placed circles of the removed track on the roof of my metal utility building.
The circles included, Bachmann, Aristo-craft, USAT, and LGB.
After just 5 years, I notice there was NO metal remaining at all on the Bachmann track. It had all entirely rusted away.

Surprise! After 8 years. the Bachmann ties held up much better than the Aristo or USAT plastic. In fact, while there was some slight problems with the LGB plastic ties cracking, The Bachmann plastic ties were in perfect condition, still flexible, still the same color, and still perfectly usable. I was amaized that the Bachmann ties were in even better condition than the LGB ties.
I had a lot of Bachmann track I originaly got for indoor use. I removed the four short plastic "tabs" that used to support the hollow rail. A Dremel tool made quick work of the tabs.  I also cut some of the webs between the ties to make "flex" rail. I then used solid brass LGB rail and the Bachmann ties to make 4 foot flex sections of track. They have been in use almost three years now with no problems. Using the Bachmann ties with LGB rail is is actually cheaper, longer lasting, and, (in my opinion) better looking than using the LGB flex ties.

As to keeping locos and cars outdoors, I have always kept them outdoors 24/7 for 8 years.

As stated, LGB locos are fine, The paint does NOT fade, windows remain clear, handrails and small plastic parts do NOT become brittle. Some of the copper finish on some field locos did deteriorate. No problems with electronics in locos. All of them have survived drought, tropical rains, and 4 hurricanes. (No, I did NOT take them inside, they would be no safer there.) I did have two LGB cattle cars with sound that failed due to a sprinkler system directed at them, but just replacing the speakers fixed them. One fell in the pond, but still worked fine once it dried out. Some ball bearing axles on lighted cars rusted, others are fine.

Aristo Cars and locos constantly had problems with rust and corrosion. Paint faded and even disappeared completely on some reefers. Springs in trucks had to be replaced  several times. Painting the springs helps.

USAT cars and locos simply would loose all their little pieces due to rubbing on vegetation, or being toppled by squirrels. Paint held up well. Clear windows become slightly foggy but acceptable.

Bachmann Big hauler still runs after 8 years, lubricated once. Loco and cars, had to replace small plastic hand rails, coupler lift levers and brake wheels. Those crumbled due to UV exposure. I painted some of the handrails and cut levers and the ones painted did not crumble. The clear plastic windows have turned a dirty brown through and through, not just foggy like the USAT and Aristo clear plastic. The green tinted windows on passenger cars has turned white and become brittle. Some paint fade, but I consider it natural weathering and is not all that noticeable. Definitely not nearly as much as Aristo. The battery clips corroded, I converted to track power lighting. Some axles rusted, but most are fine. Bachmann cars can be left outdoors if you paint the smaller detail parts to protect then from UV rays, You will may want  to replace the windows after 5 years. The locos were a big hauler and a Baldwin 2-4-4 side tank loco. A newer Annie has been outside 24/7 for over 2 years with no problems other than slight rust.

Note: my railroad is located in the panhandle of Florida about 50 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Your location, and conditions, may produce different results.

I hope that providing a comparison of the different brands will provide a useful insight into the durability of the various brands. However, you should also take into consideration, price, availability, and how you plan to use the trains.
For example: If you intend to paint and re-letter the trains to your own road name, then many issues with UV light can be discounted. If you install different lighting, sound or DCC, you can also eliminate issues with moisture inside the trains when you install the new electronics.

Quote from: Tim Brien on June 24, 2007, 11:52:41 PM
Bob,
      simple body temperature will cause the grease to lose its viscosity,  becoming very runny.  Therefore a warm day would not be conducive to ensure continuous lubrication.

I wonder if that is so!

I was expecting "grease" in the jar, so, when I started to unscrew the lid, most of it ran out before I got the lid off. It went in my lap and pocket. A BIC lighter got some of it. Not only will the (flint wheel style) lighter no longer make sparks, but nearly a week later, it is still difficult to hold onto the lighter. Even though it is a liquid, the plastic has become, and remained VERY slippery. Temperatures here in Florida reached 100F last week.

I put the gear "grease" in the refrigerator, and it did indeed turn into a pink Jello like substance.

I'm wondering, Does the excess globs of grease I see in many locos really do any good. It is only the thin layer on the surface of the gears that accomplishes anything. The Bachmann gear grease seems to coat a surface with a very thin layer and stick there.

Since this is the grease Bachmann recommends, I think I'll stick with it, rather than substitute something else. I really don't know much about lubricants, so will just try to rely on the manufacturer to provide the right thing.

My reason for asking the question was just to confirm that what I got in the jar, was, indeed, the intended lubricant. There have been documented cases where a different product (FROM ANOTHER TRAIN MANUFACTURE, NOT BACHMANN) got accidentally packaged as plastic compatible grease and caused damage to several trains. Bachmann's reply reassured me that I did indeed get the correct product. I'm now confident that I can get my shay properly lubricated.

PS
Bachmann, When I spoke to your representatives in Perry, it was explained that the lubes were not sent with the loco because they might "dry out" or spoil. Is there anything I can do to extend the shelf life other than tight lids, zip lock bags, and storing in the refrigerator?

PPS
Also, a suggestion: How about including a coupon with the locos good for a sample pack of lubes or a discount on a set of lubes, complete with an order form.

B0B

I can't visit pages I haven't visited befor.

Can someone tell me what the color and consistency of EZ Lube Gear Grease is supposed to be?

Is is supposed to be like water, Vick's Petroleum Jelly, LGB gear grease, or a bar of Ivory soap?

Is it supposed to be red, pink, yellow or clear?

B0B

Quote from: Kevin Strong on June 19, 2007, 12:28:10 PM
I think, however, the best solution is to take this as an opportunity to look at your plans for your railroad and see if there are things that can be cut back for the time being (a second loop, spur to the garage, etc.). Add them later, with next year's track budget. You may find that your railroad is just as--if not more--enjoyable without the extra trackage.

Later,

K

Smart move Kevin.
Advise everyone to hold off a year. That gives you and I a chance to find and hoard all the existing stock. Then they can buy it a year from now at twice or three times the price. I think I'll buy ten times what I need and resell it in a year or two to finance a few K-27's.

Trying to decide which Shays to order and comparing different vendors I find a lots errors in their catalogs, flyer's, and web sites. Most vendors show three different prices, 2 truck, three truck and DCC but sometimes they have the DCC price on one of their 2 truck versions or even the other way around. Also some descriptions do not mat the part number commonly used by other vendors.

I ended up making a chart and sorting out what I could.

Maybe this chart will help others to avoid getting the wrong loco.
Unfortunately, there are a lot ob blanks in my chart and the Bachmann on line catalog search is no help.

Can anyone fill in the blanks?

Part Number S=In Stock P= Per-order # of trucks, (bunker) [Stack] - Road name

82195 ANA  S 2(Coal Load ) [Diamond] - W.M. Ritter #7
82196 ANA  S 2(Oil Bunker) [Cabbage] - Oregon Lumber Co #106  
82197 ANA  S 2(Coal Load ) [       ] - Ely-Thomas Lumber Co #6
82198 ANA  S 2(Oil & Coal) [       ] - Unlettered, Black w/Red-White Trim
82199 ANA  S 2(Oil & Coal) [       ] - Unlettered  (black)

82494 ANA  S 3(Oil Bunker) [Cabbage] - Oregon Lumber Co #110
82495 ANA  P 3(          ) [       ] - Little River Lumber
82496 ANA  S 3(          ) [       ] - Meadow River Lumber Co #7
82497 ANA  S 3(          ) [       ] - West Side Lumber
82498 ANA  S 3(          ) [       ] - Unlettered, Black w/Red-White Trim
82499 ANA  S 3(          ) [       ] - Unlettered (black)

82697 DIGI S 3(          ) [       ] - Little River Lumber
82698 DIGI S 3(          ) [       ] - West Side Lumber #4
82699 DIGI S 3(          ) [       ] - Unlettered, Black w/Red-White Trim

Thanks Barry,

That worked except the cover on the bottom was glued it's entire length, had to cut it away and make a new one.

Thanks.

For future reference.:
The roof comes off easily, three catches on each side, pull out on the side while pressing in on the roof to disengage.

There are little metal contacts at each end to carry the current from the car to the roof, so , there are no dangling wires to contend with. Very Neat. Nice touch there Bachmann.

Once you remove the roof there are a couple tiny screws to remove the center channel.. The two end channels simply pop off when pried up and will press back in place when done. splicing in a new bulb in the top is just a Barry described for the bottom.


While at it , I decided to change to yellow LED's for the interior,
Thanks Barry. I think you saved me from destroying at least one headlight had I tried to figure it out on my own.


B0B

I got the open side United traction Co. trolley

How do I replace a burned out bulb? One on the front and another under the roof.

Thanks in advance.

B0B

Jim, or someone, please explain this diagram to me.

Quote
More info about Hybrid drive using DCC technology--
Click http://www.tttrains.com/dcc/hybriddrive/

On that page you will find a link on how to install hybrid drive.

http://www.tttrains.com/dcc/hybriddrive/installing_hybrid_drive.htm
I've seen this wiring diagram before. And I still do not understand it.

The relay contact switch is, according to Stanly, a normally open contact.

Look closely at the circuit and you will plainly see that the battery is out of the circuit. The relay is de-energized. The only way to energize the relay, and connect the battery, is to apply power to the relay from the decoder.

Got that so far?

OK, so we set the loco on the tape. The decoder supposedly gets it's DCC signal through the tape. How the decoder processes the signal is a mystery to me. The decoder is not getting POWER through the tape, and the battery is still disconnected.

So, QUESTION 1. How does the decoder process the DCC signal without power? Remember, it is on the tape, and the relay is not energized, so the battery is disconnected by S1.

I suppose the decoder could be a very low power device and can use the signal it has detected to power itself.

So, Question 2. Where does the power come from to energize the relay?
Remember, according to Stanly, it is a relay from an automobile. It probably takes 12 volts and at least 200 MA to energize the relay. The battery is not connected, and the decoder is on the tape.

B0B

Quote from: Jim Banner on March 05, 2007, 12:36:46 AM
...
...

I suspect bobgrosh never made it past the third paragraph of my first posting on this thread.  If he had, he would have realized that the battery backup that he proposed adding to the + and - outputs of a regular decoder's bridge rectifier could only accomplish a fraction of what the Gold Maxi can do.  He may have run over tape on a track, but did he stop on the tape, reverse, accelerate, etc. all on the tape?  I don't think so.  And do I need to explain that if a decoder costs less than a receiver/controller then a decoder plus a battery costs less than a receiver/controller plus a battery??  I assume Bob is making the comparison between battery powered with radio control versus battery powered with decoder control.  But if Bob was considering only of the backup battery, I would be forced to admit that mine cost six dollars total.  Six little Canadian dollars at that.  I am glad that Bob could understand what TOC was saying, because I couldn't.  Except his kind wishes that I learn to like batteries.  If this all works out with the Gold Maxi, I guess I will have to do just that. 

Yes, 7 years ago I did a demo for some visitors where the locos slowed gracefully to a stop on the tape, reversed the headlights, sounded the correct toots from the sound decoder, and gradually accelerated back off the tape. All that using thick black electrical tape on BOTH rails. I did it using two different brands of decoders and carefully setting up the proper CV's. I admit that several other brands of decoders I tried could not be made to do that even though they had access to the + & -. at best they could only cross the tape. Some could not even do that because they did not handle DC conversion in a standard way.

I would be more interested to know what happens when you INTEND to stop at a spot on the tape. Does the creep on stop feature work. Does it continue to creep off the tape in an attempt to regain track power?  According to the web site, it will not stop on a dirty piece of track but will creep to a clean spot. Does that work when loco stops while backing up?
I was able to get that to work years ago by adding a resistor and small relay, but I never got it to work in both directions. One thing I did not like was the drivers creeping when I picked the loco up and set it on a shelf. I had to add a cutoff switch. Does the gold decoder solve that problem?

Can you stop the loco on the tape and still be able to control the loco an hour later, 8 hours later? When the battery goes dead. Is there a way to have the decoder go to low power mode, IE turn off the smoke generator etc. when it looses track power?

I guess I have to get one to find out. All I've ever seen is a description of the test as Stan described it a and a repeat of the same test. Getting it to run on and off the tape is only the first step. There are a lot of other issues that have to be solved. Can you run a COMPLETE set of tests? Please include how the decoder handles DC stopping sections. How about DC conversion for analog operation? What happens when one of the drivers get jammed in a turnout, and shorts out the DCC signal so the booster shuts down? Does BMEF just keep applying more power until something breaks?



B0B

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