Craig;
There is a "European" type connection strip available via "Demar Electronics" .  This is the type of terminal strip into which you insert the conductor under the pressure connector portion and screw it down, as opposed to a "wraparound" type termination.  Both are good if done correctly; I asm partial to the European type.  Much neater to work with.
OK, time to paint a wall-and I don't mean a backdrop either.

RIch

Nigel;
I have experienced a broken wire right at the entrance of the male plug on one of my Bachmann 2-6-6-2s.  I had previously assumed (dangerous) that it would be easy to find a replacement Molex type insert, crimp it onto the wire and reinsert it into the plug body-I was wrong.   It is NOT easy...
Have you experienced this occurance, and if so, what did you do to remedy it?  My thought at this point, short of hard-wiring the whole, is to try tp get a presoldered conductor into the plug, and "cold-solder" it to the existing brass.  Probably a fool's errand.

Rich

Soldering is fine-if it is done correctly.  Notice I said correctly, not "right".  You can solder correctly and it still might not be right; it all depends upon you and the time and effort you put into prep and forethought (planning).
My first choice of weapons is a crimp connection, and I will tell you why:

Solder joints can become fractured in a number of ways, and then the interior of that fracture can oxidize, possibly creating a high-resistance junction; which, under the right circumstances can drive you nuts!

Suitcase connectors, although I use thes also, can become loose.  Nothing is going to be consistently perfect; but for my satisfaction, I will use a crimp or a screw terminal.  THe others are still good options in my mind; it all depends on what you like and are willing to go with.

RIch

What sounds interesting is the aspect of an SD-45-2 pulling a 100-car trainload of king tigers anywhere.  Hmmmmmmmm...a wink and a flash of the good ol' "Honest Abe" tie.....lets be ever mindful of those 18-inch radii, boys...

For all  who are unititiated, the honest Abe tie was advertised in "True" man's mag many years ago; sold presumably, as a gift for those who toy so carelessly with the truth... Ah, the good old  days...

RIch

Mark;
Have you considered perhaps taking a look at the I-5 Hudson Precicion is coming out with this year?  Yeah.....I know it is New Haven, but just think:  It might just be the excuse you are looking for to rebuild your layout...and imagine doing all that catenery...

Seriously, I don't see any logical reason Bachmann would even entertain the idea.  As was aforestated, too many in what is probably a limited/locale market-even though Frank Sinatra had one...(And to think he grew up in Hoboken...CNJ country).

Rich

Sheldon;
Uncle Noah also pronounces "forte" as (for-tay, as well as fort, thus weinieing out of a touchy subject).

My first job as an electrician was with what was probably (in my opinion) the biggest SOB I ever had the displeasure of meeting-but he did know his stuff, and I did learn rightfrom wrong with him.
To be sure, an electrical device intended for lighting is known as a "lamp". 
-To hell with the dictionary!!

RIch

HI, Gene;
Question:  What is your radii for the helix?  I am given to about a 72" circle (6feet), and would like to do one to get up to the "clouds".  Basically, I think I could do one satisfactorily; but what of the larger engines?  How would they act negotiating that curve, especially with a train behind them?  Also, I wonder what would be the effect of an elevated outer rail-not much, just about maybe .030".

When I think of a helix, I think about getting the second layer to the six foot height level.   The base is about four feet high; just enough to be disastrous to unwary engines.   (I am 6'2", so it is no big thing in that dept).  Also, that base is a great place to put that rope lighting that Tony was telling me about last year at the proto meet here in Ct.

On your sound decoder:  I hope you have a beeeeeg tender, especially if you are using Tsunami.  I installed three of them, and they were-to say the least-a challenge for me.  As a fringe benefit, I did learn some new "English"...

Rich

While the SY is a mike, and that Bachmann did indeed produce it is a fact; it is a Chinese prototype-not an American; and an American prototype is what people would like.

I have built what could have been a small mike on almost any American standard gauge road out of an SY 9 (a lot of you have seen those pictures).  THis little engine had lent itself marvelously to my endeavour, but I think a mike might be  food for thought. 

On the other hand, BLI has a great USRA (heavens, that word...) light and heavy, that could lend themselves to a wide variety of adaptations.  To flood the market with what may be too many themes of the same kind might not be all that good a move.

RIch

Both will be available this year from Precision (BLI).  The Mikes are probably just a re-issue, but the Pacifics are new.  I want two or more Pacifics-I think they will make great New Haven I-4s.  The I-5 looks like a rea beauty!! 

Rich

Gene;
I think I inferred that five coupled engines-of which the Texas type is one, et etc etc.  I am not sure where you are going with that last reply.
I tend to approach my trackwork as if there are no such thing as blind drivers.  My minimum radius on the main is 36 inches, and  I still have trouble with ten drivers-they just seem to be too tight.  As I want the drag freight feature on my layout, I will take pains to accommodate them.
My 2-6-6-2 mallets all seem to fare better, as they are in reality, 6-coupled engines operating in a pair; thus allowing both frames to swivel independent of one another. 

OK, well I am going up for a beer and some supper.  How's your layout coming? 

RIch     

Gene;
My experience with a five-coupled mill is that on anything less than 26 or so inches rad. they become a bit finicky.  Perhaps it is the engine, perhaps the trackwork (for which I am world renowned...)-or maybe gremlins (see Letters from Jim-MR 1967)...
...At any rate, it is probably in the best interests of frustration prevention and potential "kit-bashing" that one uses about a 30-inch rad as a perscribed minimum for a five coupled locomotive-or just run diesels...
Rich

In the town of Machias, Maine, there is a boxcar on what is left of the "coastal line" of the B&AR-on about that much track!  It sits at what once was the Machias station!  I do believe that the car has roofwalk and ladders had been removed to presumably "lil' railfans" from "discovering what the brakeman saw...

RIch

HUnt;
I agree wholeheartedly!  I slipped up on this foray.  Most of my engines are broken in on 12/DC, so I had no problems with the other mills, not even the Athearns, although one does have a gear issue.  I haven't had time, but I will look into it down the line.  Bottom line?  No problems with decoders. 

One thing I gave thought to is that the decoder in the engine is the one it came with; the only thing I did in that dept was change tenders, and then everything got changed!  I get a rather disturbing hum in the motor, but that and the speed thing I attribute to the control variable thing, which Iam totally unfamiliar with (mental block-If I can work through AC/DC theory, I can do that).  I think, to trim this problem out, another visit to Tony's will probably do it.

BTW, would those two yellow caps on the board have anything to do with   that hum?

RIch

RIch

Lanny and Sheldon;
IN the "Precision" catalogue, they show a B&M type 4-6-2 pacific 1:1 scale.  If you look at the literature, they are inferring that the product they are making will roughly-fit the req.s of a lot of roads, and with some minor modifications, will probably do quite well to represent what people want. 

In my case, that loco specs out to about the dimensions of an I-4.  now, even though I free-lance and follow no prototype on my railroad, there is a big soft spot in my otherwise granitic ticker for the NYNH&H railroad co.

I will use it as a basis for just that engine.  They are also coming out wit htwo versions of the Hudson I-5; one in brass (I am still laughing at the price) and one in brass and plastic.  Not a problem.  I am no purist, except they have to be either blonde or redhead....
Rich

HI Sheldon;
Well, on my layout, the minimal radii is about 30 inches; and that is in the yard trackage, along with #7 min. turnouts..  Any older, sharper radii is being phased out.  I will say one thing:  If your trackwork is lumpy, bumpy, etc, the 2-10-2 will "see it', and act accordingly; for that reason, I am relegating mine to just that:  Drag Freight service, as the curves out of the yards are generous, and there are no hills between yard areas, except for the helix I am planning-but this has made me re-visit my own specs.
One reason I found the engine to be acting finicky was that the "water delivery pipes" from the tender to the injectors, made of brass, were causing the tender to hang up and "stay straight".  The "click" appears to be gear noise, but I have heard that NWSL has relacements for it.  I will invstigate that option.
Rich