I have to agree with Virginian, The QSi steam locos from BLi & Lifelike are sync'd very well. I believe this is due to QSi setting up their BEMF settings.

Bachmann Tsunami locos are not set up to sync, as mentioned in the accompanying information that comes with the loco.

To sync the Chuff rate, Tsunami recommend Optimizing the Hyperdrive, CV10,209,210 & 212, on page 44 of your manual.  You will need a DCC Control unit capable of reading the CV settings, unless you have a HUGE amount of patience.

You can then go back a couple of pages & setup the DDE.

I only have a PCM DC Master, so programming the Hyperdrive is a pain. I have had a certain amount of success with my Bachmann Tsunami Mountain. Once this is right, I'll start on the other four Bachmann Tsunami locos.

I am very happy with my Bachmann locos, & have enjoyed their reliability & smoothness & detail for many years. This is why I'll persist in getting the chuff rate sorted on the new Tsunami fitted locos, hopefully sooner than latter.

I can see how the QSi fitted locos can justify their additional cost. In time spent, adjusting my Tsunami fitted loco; it has made it more expensive than either a Bli or Life Like equivalent.

QSi should be releasing their aftermarket Quantum Revolution sound system soon, & hopefully they will do all the hard programming for this as well. If it is successful, I'll retrofit all my non-sound Bachmann’s in preference to fiddling with a new Bachmann Tsunami loco.

P.S. I run on DC & this is why I don't have a DCC Control Unit.

Sheldon,

No need to explain. I remembered you mentioned as one of your criteria, being under $300. I know it does not meet the rest. But I thought I'd let you know   

Regarding Hornby producing an undecorated version, I know Simon Kohl of Hornby, takes a lot of notice of the British outline feedback, & business requirements permitting tries to produce what is requested. He replies to many queries on Model Rail Express Emag
www.mremag.demon.co.uk/hpsite/index.htm
I don't know if Simon is in charge of Rivarossi as well, but might be a place to start.

Detailing on the Allegheny was quite good, I thought. I have the original Rivarossi from 2002. It has the usual list of details we are all used to now, like....
•   Includes two detailed locomotive cabs: The standard cab comes attached for operation on sharp-radius curves, or optional prototype length version for display or operation on wide-radius curves.
•   Hand-applied piping
•   Tender truck chain
•   Blackened metal wire handrails, rods and drivers
•   White tires on all wheels
•   Working headlight and backup light on tender
•   Operating tender water hatches which reveal detailed water bunker interior
•   Fully detailed, authentically painted cab interior
•   Opening sliding cab roof vents
•   Firebox glow lighting effects
•   Brass bell, whistle and poppet valves
•   Prototypically profiled tender coal load
•   Etched metal builder's plate
•   Sliding, painted cab windows
•   Realistic matte finish which lends itself well to weathering
•   Razor sharp lettering and striping
•   Attractive, protective display packaging, complete with history booklet, numbered certificate of authenticity suitable for framing

But my ALL TIME FAVOURTITE......

•   Positionable butterfly firebox doors

You won't see that one very often.

Quote from: Virginian on March 10, 2007, 12:08:14 PM
Yeah, but those raised numbers on the front board are a pain in the you know what, as is trying to avoid a total repaint and still ending up with a nice looking locomotive.  I have not had the best of luck removing numbers a la Q-tip.  Rivarossi paint is really tough too, unless they have changed it.

Virginian,
Yeah, you're right, I forgot about numbers on the front board. If someone wanted 1638, it could be possible to doctor it, from 1633..... at a stretch.....maybe.......if severely weathered......?

Quote:
"Yes, at something under $300 and undecorated, I would buy a few.
Sheldon"
===================================================
Sheldon,
I don't know about undecorated but you can get one for $299 from
www.discounthobbywarehouse.net/
"Rivarossi Allegheny $299 #1633"
Bit-a-paint, bit-a-weatherin', i'ud be a charmer.

Hi All,
I just came accross some info on a test with a NYC HUDSON, which was statically steamed to 165 mph. This was the fastest steaming rate ever achieved. But it does not count as the loco was not going anywhere at the time.

There was a point made as to why steam declined, in the US anyway, due to the cost of staff to run them. In the UK, steam was hastened on its way by the sad fact, B.R. could not get anyone to do the dirty work associated with steam. Driving & firing is one thing, but the daily, dirty, maintenance was another.

You can get an MDC 2-8-0 from Trainworld for $69. I don't know if they have this particular road still available.

'64 was a very good year.
a very good year,
for wide eyed boys,
with sinders in their eyes.
Two ovals of track,
a pair of locos to play.
It was a very good year.



Thanx for the memories Big Bear.

G'Day keddiewye,

I find Bachmann Branchline locomotives runs very smoothly, have excellent detail, & with the exception of the eight wheel tenders, follow NRMA wheel standards pretty closely.

They are however geared just a little [& I mean Just a little] too high. US outline locos seem to gear their locos a little better. I have several British outline locos capable of scale 250 mph - beat that Mallard - oh wait a minute - I think that is my Mallard? [I think we found the answer to your speed record thread Stewart   If they were geared a little lower, say, a scale 150mph their low speed running would be as good as US outline.

Hornby are in the same boat, except they pay little attention to NMRA wheel standards, but run OK, albeit with more chance of derailments.

I have over 170 British outline ranging back to my first loco; a Tri-ang 0-4-0T in yellow, my father bought me to the latest BoB's, Britannias & 9f's, & love them all.

There is something about a large Brit' in motion - it appears to move effortlessly & faster than the wheels seem to turn - Elegance in motion.

The tenders are large enough for DCC with SOUND [two speakers], so I hope they will get on the band wagon soon. I hope they adopt the BLi type wiring harness, that plugs directly into the back of the loco & in line with the tender with the excess wire disappearing into the tender & not dragged along the ground. Can only hope.

If the prototypes never existed, someone would have created Model Trains anyway.

Glenn,
To extend my ON30 train, I bought two Bachmann coaches [with the same number-no choice], but luckily the last number was "4", which was easily changed to a "1". I too, would like to see rolling stock numbers changed occasionally.

Discount Hobby Warehouse, Il & Trainworld, NY & The Favourite Spot, TX
http://www.discounthobbywarehouse.net/

Happy Shopping

Careful Hoople, you'll just make it mad.

Model Railroading - it's all fun & games...'til some looses an eye.

Harold,

I was planning on using accumate couples due to their more realistic size, but always wondered how they compared to KDs, Bachmann et al, in operation?

I noticed you have a couple of 2-8-0s. I bought one as soon as they were released & another just a couple of days ago. The new one, with the tender close coupled, negotiates 18" curves easily - too easily. Yet my original one cannot run below 22". Was there any changes made to the 2-8-0, that you know about, that would cause such different results? I compared mine side by side, but I can't see any difference.

Gene,
I hate [read : envy - green, green greeeeeen] people like you. 

Why my decaling stinks, I just don't know. I've followed all the correct methods, set down by members of this board, ModelRoader & others. I'm just doomed.

Tim Warris, creator & ultimately destroyer of the Port Kelsey Railroad [May it rest in peace], has a laser engraver - Sort of a printer that uses lasers to cut or etch the material in any intricate pattern you can CAD.

He uses this to make model buildings, boxes, sleeper sets to go under hand made turnouts & makes stencils of "Port Kelsey RR" & loco numbers. He then sprays the perfectly cut name & number on the model.

Now I admit, I can decal my son’s miniature war hammer pieces, I can decal a model plane, but for the life of me, I cannot decal a model train satisfactorily. I have been spray painting bikes, boats, helmets, cars, & model trains without any problems.

So obviously all I need is a Laser printer to do the stencil work & I can spray instead of decaling. Just gotta find me a spare 'G' note

G'day All,

I Bought another Western Maryland 2-8-0 the other day. It is the DCC version. It carries a different Road number on the cab, & this is the only reason I bought it.

My Decaling skills........well, lets not talk about that.

I have always been confused why Bachmann US does not use different road numbers on their locos every year or two to create some variety. The practice is rife in British outline.

So the question is....

Would you buy a second loco,   of the same type,   if it had a different number?