I think it was just yesterday I was thinking of what became of the traction enthusiasts ?. I see lots of old brass traction in a local train store and wonder if it will ever get sold being both analog and trolley, not related to by the younger set ...I would make it overhead contact, not 2 rail..Or, it just won't give you that 'feeling'...Catenary might need to be thicker than desired to ward off stall outs...Good luck ..Mark

But, until engine ceases to run or headlight goes out I need not worry about motor bearings , correct ? Then, if brushes are suspect or light has quit I would have to get in there or send it to Bachmann, yes ?
WOW, what a coincidence ! I believe I just responded to a post of yours about your Big Boy or Challenger problem in another MRR forum 10 minutes ago, not realizing at all I'd be typing to you yet again, here !!!  Or, are you not the same Doneldon ? !!
Mark

Yeah, I caught that too ! Yike, add glue !!!  Actually, thanks again for assistance. Donaldon, I thought the gearbox cover removal might be enough..No sure though. Are you concluding that I do not then need to ever remove the shell as motor does not need lube ? If so, all else is quite understandable: gear glue (oops ), gear grease, axles and valve gear oiled, pilot truck mounting screw-shaft, etc. ? I'd love to never have to remove shells..Especially all the ones found ant the beach !!!

Hi all..I may have asked this a good time ago but can't locate it..I keep trying to remove the shells of my HO connie and mogul..I remove what I believe are the correct screws ( tiny two under cab and larger one above pilot truck to smokebox )..But only the cab wiggles a bit..I just can't get the shells to lift off frames. I'm affraid if I force it I'll snap something. So I give up and put screws back and let it go again...Is it in fact really necessary TO lube modern motors anyway ? I lube all other moving parts very sparingly, clean treads with alcohol (Or, AlCO haul !) and hope it's enough...What am I missing that everyone else seems to find so commonplace about shell removal..? mogul is in about 2 years now and connie about 3 months..Respectfully, I don't need more underside photos..I need a clear, precise ' How to ' explanation if you would..
Thanks again,
Mark

Hi. I stumbled onto this thread and noticed Rich's expertise about loco lighting..So, I am cheating a tad here to ask: Is there a way to make HO 2-8-0 headlight as bright as the 2-6-0 I too own ? Mogul has one of the best Ive ever seen..connie is one of the worst ..And mogul isn't even Spectrum as is connie !
Thanks,
Mark

rogertra, I know since 1957-ish it's 4 per rev, 2 per side...This is what it will not accomplish..(as mogul always has ).. if I didn't know this how else would I know it's not correct ?

I may have submitted this same question some time ago but am still in the blind on this:
Why is it seemingly impossible to get chuff rate in sync on this engine...Others have suggested this and that with 'loadable speed curve' setting bit 4 of CV 29 to 1 and then CV 25 to 16... 67-94 to theses, 10 to this, 209, 210, 66, 95, etc....But, no matter what I do it just does not syncronize the way my 2-6-0 does..It is next to perfect since day one, and is not even Spectrum..With Spectrum connie roll-off can be OK but not at speed ..Or, at speed OK, but not at roll off....

Welp, I see the writing on the wall ...So many have said a cam is the only way..So I guess I just have to accept the reality of this..Odd though, how/why does a non-Spectrum 2-6-0 not only have near perfect chuffs (and greatest headlight ever) and A Spectum 2-8-0 near impossible to match chuffs and have possible the worst headlight ever ?!! All I can think of is that the 2-6-0 is a newer product which was thus given a better decoder and headlight(s) not available when Connie was designed...Yes ? No?
I'm sure in the future all steam will have 'cam on board' just like hobby eventually adopted (Kadee) knuckle couplers replacing those horn-hooks we used to put up with in RTR models..Then, on-board DCC and DCC/sound made another sea change in the hobby.' Keep alive ' and cams will be common on-board features one day.
Thanks for responses,
Mark

Anyone have a sure fire method to program 4 chuffs per each wheel rev on Spectrum 2-8-0 from slow roll off to top speed using CV 29 " User Loadable Speed Table" Cvs 67-94 ?I know how to unlock it and to put CV25 to 16..Plus CV116 rates..But is it possible to have it 99% perfectly in sync ?

Hi, I may have asked this back a ways..My HO mogul is basically very nice..It is a replacement for another going back maybe 1.5 to 2 years now. First one blatantly lifted up and down as it rolled..This one is lots smoother but it too does this to a small extent..My guess is wheel quartering as looks like side rod is binding/losening..Can I pull pins out of rods and run it without them a tad to confirm my suspicion ? I've heard wheels can not be turned on Bachmann axles or will destroy it. True ?

Hey ! Am I hallucinating or are there both HO and N scales in pictures "End of the Line "? !! It looks like two different scales exist on this MRR !!  Is HO crossing N outside of shot, or what ? !!!

This is what I am saying I am doing..I go to email for NEW one as per Bachmann...I go back to BMann home page/ to ' repair request '...enter new one,  but it keeps requiring OLD one !! It is the old one I no longer KNOW !! Why on earth is old/disabled one even involved any longer ? What purpose does it serve !!?
Well, I'll try again today or just phone in Monday...

I need my Ten wheeler repaired...I go to log in to 'repair request' and system asks for ID and password..As I couldn't remember my password I established a NEW one..But form still requires OLD one...It is the precisely old one I can't remember to begin with..Why doesn't system at this juncture just ask for NEW one if new one is what is needed in the first place ! What good does it serve entering old/disabled password, one needed changing if I have in fact now a new one ? On top of this, 'repair' doesn't utilize same log in info as needed for THIS very message..Why aren't the both under the same user I.D. and password ?   

Thanks again for insight on topics...

Rich, if you are still reading this thread, I guess my TEN is a factory Tsunami..Interesting, you are saying a non factory added decoder winds up to be better performer due to what now, an added on 'micro' decoder to a what, 'DCC ready' bought TEN ? I believe my problem is mechanical, not digital...No ?