here is a link to Georges tech tips on the Big Hauler ... http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html     Read down a little ways and it explains how to Identify the different versions of chassis that were prodused.....as for the year of production, I will have to yield to Loco Bill and his vast knowledge, or that of someone else.  hope this is some help....Later all....S.B.

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_75&products_id=193   This is the item your looking for.......it connects the transformer to the track....Later All.......S.B.

    UV resistance can be an issue no matter the brand  see....http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips4/track_tips.html           George has had an issue or two with other brands. Brass track will discolor to look like full scale rails but that can limit conductivity and Aluminum will oxidise and get a little rough with out maintenance and conductivity can suffer, as can the life of your rail. Area, climate and maintenance can and will play a part in the life of your track, but the only person that can really decide on the brand and style of track that is best for you.... is you. If you choose steel rail...and your going battery....oil your track on a regular basis... there are electrically compatible oils that will help if track power is your choice....Balistal is just one. Just wipe down the riding surface to remove extra oil to avoid slippage. Balistol is supposed to be UV resistant. I can, by no means, promise that any idea I give will work for you but they are Idea's none the less.  Hope I've been some help.........Later all.....S.B.

  As I promised, here are my results with the ELO.    Results were not real  good, The only effect that I can comment on is the slight softening of the lettering. Did not touch the grey or put a dent in the bloody nose on my Aristo GP-40, much as we thought. Will keep it on hand for attempts in the future.   later all....S.B.

  Here  are a few links to discussion's that have taken place on this board. In case they don't work, the first is titled  "double heading 10 wheelers" and the other is "big haulers train sets" http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,15623.0.html   and here    http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,15947.0.html    At the time of my post, the second is on page 2 and the first is on page 4 of this board.    Hope this helps....Later all.......S.B.

     I seem to remember reading on this board once that the engine in the starter sets is the standard 4-6-0 and that the "Annie" or Anniversary edition, 4-6-0 was only sold separately....I.E....on its own. But... I'll be @#&#@ if I can find the post it's in so I hear by step aside for Bill, and hope he can shed some Light on the truth, or lack there of , of my comments.   Take it away Bill    (no pressure).......Later All.....S.B.

   I know that the question was aimed at Joe Satnik but I think this may be what your looking for ..... http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,14813.0.html .Be sure to read on to the second page.  Hope this is some help.....Later All ........S.B.

  I was on the phone with QSI back in Oct. The man there told me that they were working on a smoke control board to go with the Quantum.  I think that I've seen directions on QSI's site that said how to wire the lights so to have control of them, though this may have involved the magnum addapter.  I too will be going with the G-wire set up and batteries on board for the bulk of my motive power. Let us know how it works out. I know I'm interested.....Hope this helps....Later All.....S.B.

  There is a post back on Nov. 27, page 6 when I wrote this, that talks about changing curve diameters and grafting to other brands of track. At that time, Mr. B. said that were no plans for additions to the track selection. All is explained in said post. Hope that it's of some help.....Later All....S.B.

  Drilling pilot holes for the brads may eliminate some of the splitting issues. Tite Bond or liquid nails should hold up pretty good for a while at least, and if you drill pilots and nail them as well   then one would think you'd be covered on both sides. If the pilot holes raise questions as to strength, epoxy the brads and set them by hand. Don't mean to make you more work .....just hope it helps......Later All .......S.B.

 I know this is a very long link but I found one in Aristo's on line store. Don't know if there are any others........Hope this helps https://www.aristocrafttrainstore.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/WService=takestock/search.html?ItemNum=&ProdLine=Any&ItemDescript=reversing+unit&MultiSearch=++Search++&conum=001&HideFld2=Any%3BAny%3BAny%3BAny%3B%3B%3B      Later all.......S.B.

   ......And thus it begins.  (welcome aboard John)   Later All..........S.B.

  A black, permanent, marker(magic marker) will quickly turn silver wheels into blackend ones, and a lot cheaper.   Later all....S.B.

 Here is another place to get them. just found it. http://www.reindeerpass.com/splitjawrailclamps.aspx?page=2             Later all......S.B.

  O.k. Bill,........just got a little bottle of the ELO, and here are the results of my initial test(about 5 minutes worth)....  Older Delton U.P. caboose.    Almost instantly liquefied U.P. emblem and writing,a couple passes with an old tooth brush and it was gone, didn't touch base Yellow.  Aristo Lil' critter, circa 1997, softened  the G.N. emblem and orange stripe to a point that 3 or 4 passes with a pink (fine grit) nail file, took it to the green paint under the emblem and wiped out the edge of the stripe. With a little more time I think the strip would go almost completely.  Haven't tried it on the brand new GP 40 yet. Still just kinda lookin at it.  When I do try it, I'll post results.              Later all.......S.B.