Thanks for getting back so fast. I did find the problem. I had it on 03 but no sound and no running. I used the reset magnet heard a click heard reset and it seems fine.  Do you mean if it was on another channel like 10 you would hear sound anyway? Maybe it shifted reed switch during shipping. Thanks Ron

Quote from: skipgear on January 02, 2011, 05:02:06 PM
Answered your e-mail....here it is for others

If it is new and is the DCC/Sound version. Factory default is 3. If it is not responding to 3, look in the manual for the factory decoder reset, usually CV8 = 8.

If it is the DCC/Sound version, it should be making sounds even if you are not addressing it.

Got a new Y3 for xmas but not having any luck getting it running. Using a digitrax Zephyr Xtra DCC Unit but can't get the loco to do anything. I have it set to 03 loco but no response. Can someone advise me. maybe its not on factory 03. Trying to read the manual but can't concentrate now. Thanks Ron

Sounds like your giving my J hope. I check it out again tomorrow. It is having trouble running this total layout. Front wheels jump off or the 8 wheels jump. Really would like to get this going on my layout. The light mountain works fine.  Ron

Quote from: rrtreerat on December 31, 2010, 10:18:09 PM
N-Scale Rull-o-thumb; A three axle steam loco of any wheel size, including most articulates, will pretty much handle any curve you throw at it.
But when you throw in an extra axle, wheel diameter comes into play, small wheeled locos like the 2-8-0, 2-8-2 H&L, and 2-8-8-2 should negotiate 9.75" without any hic-ups. But when you start into the larger 'Mainline' power such as 2-8-4's and 4-8-4's, big wheels and a long fixed wheel base almost demand larger than 11" radius.
This not to say that they won't handle such a tight radius but that you will have to expect more derailments from them. The Bachmann 611 spectrum, that I have one of, which runs on smaller than usual drivers handles 9.75" all the time but every once in a while 'hop' and all the drivers are on the ground spinning.
Now one thing all steam engines like is a good 'transition curve' to take you from tangent track into your 9.75" and 11" radius curves, this is best achieved by the use of flex track on sanded cork roadbed but in a pinch the old Atlas trick of including a section of 19" radius curve between the tangent and your tight radius will work just about as well.

It runs poor all over this track. will check more tomorrow Ron

Quote from: skipgear on January 01, 2011, 12:21:46 AM
The J stuggles on anything under 11 1/4" radius. The light mountain will make 9 3/4 but pulling will be very limited. Both will want to nose in the corners.

As far as derailing on the turnouts. Atlas turnouts need tuning. The points need the ends filed for the best performance. The points also need to be shimmed closer together on the #6's. Another thing to check is the gauge of the wheels. The Bachmann loco's you mention are notorious for being narrow in gauge which makes the problem worse.

Something else to look at on the J....sorry if it sounds crazy...but.....Did you remove all the packing foam from the loco? There are foam squares above each of the leading and trailing trucks when they are shipped. I've had more than one customer bring one in complaining of derailing only to find the foam still in the loco.

The J is a problem all over the track including switches. Will do more checking tomorrow. It either throws the front wheels off or the 8 wheels jump at the rear of them. Ron

Quote from: rrtreerat on December 31, 2010, 10:32:20 PM
Any rail gaps or misalignments? The plan you show already has the 19" transition curves. Is there a particular spot on the railroad or just going into any of your curves? Which wheels are coming off the track?
One thing to check if it is all the curves is 'side to side' play of the J's drivers, there should be about a 32nd of an inch of side play in each of the 4 driver axles. After that possibly engine tender + binding.

Anyone with these know the smallest radius that can be used goodly with both.  Thanks Ron

The light mountain seems to run ok but the Norfork and Western jumps the rail all the time on 11 inch or less. Ron

Quote from: ACY on December 31, 2010, 04:09:41 PM
The 9 & 3/4ths is a bit tight for some of the locos like the light mountain & the N&W J.

I'm using the code 80 track. Ron

Quote from: ericw95 on December 31, 2010, 03:18:00 PM
What type of track are you using? I was having the same issue with Atlas Code 80 switches. It appears the piece that connects the switch track (i think its called the frog) sticks up too far. Haven't found any solution yet. if you can, please let me know. I have read that the Peco insulfrog switches can be used with Atlas track and work much better so I think I'll try buying them.

Same problems here. How do we know the minimum for different trains. Is this printed somewhere? I have the Norfolk Western, Light Mountain, Heavy Mountain, 2-6-6-2 Articulated Spectrum a Athearn Challenger and a Walther Y3. Ron

It seems my new layout is being a real pain. New to this but having trouble getting different locos to run. Is there a method to checking track for workability and why some locos don't run. Some locos hit at switch track sections. Running a light mountain and Norfolk and Western J class and having trouble. When the N&W goes into a curve it lifts up and goes off the track. I am using 11 inch radius track and 9 3/4 radius. Ron

Thanks for your help. I started to use flex track and hope to extend both loops left. If this goes south I'll be back to your info. Ron

Quote from: Joe Satnik on December 28, 2010, 11:20:41 AM
Dear Ron,

I guess it's a little harder to describe than I thought.

Let's make things a little simpler. 

The only critical "will it still fit?" concerns are the 2 loops. 

The two outside stub ended sidings can be lengthened til you run off the table.

The three inside "X" leg stub sidings can be lengthened til you run into the inner loop. 

Back to the loops.

If you want to expand horizontally (left to right on layout book page), you would split each loop in 2 places (once on the upper side of the loop, and once on the lower side of the loop) where ever there is a vertical (top to bottom on the layout book page) gap between the tracks.   

Notice on your diagram that there is a line (wire) drawn from Cab B power pack to the bottom of the first selector switch.  If you extend the vertical portion of that drawn line down through the loops, you will notice that

it hits a gap between a 5/8" straight and a 19"R curve on the upper outer loop, then

a gap between a straight and a 19"R curve on the upper inner loop, then

a gap between two 19"R curves on the lower inner loop, and then

a gap between a 5/8" straight and a 19"R curve on the lower outer loop. 

Split those gaps and add four equal lengths of straights to those gaps.   

For example, if you wanted to expand your layout 5" in length (horizontally), add a 5" straight to each of those 4 gaps. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

I'm sure you have the expansion point right . All I have to do is understand what you said. I will study what you wrote. Just length needed.  Can you see the spot where I would add the straights on my pic. Anyway you could point me to them. Thinking of using flex track for the straights. Thanks Ron

Quote from: Joe Satnik on December 27, 2010, 11:09:19 AM
Dear Ron,

Nice Layout.  Good job, so far. 

Hey, I just noticed...2 complete loops.  Time for train races !

Draw a vertical line about 3/4 the way to the right of your layout. 

You will notice it crosses 7 straights: 5 horizontal (outside) and 2 diagonal (inside).

Split your layout in 7 places near the vertical line and add straights one a time to the 5 horizontals, and one at a time to the 2 diagonals.

If you wanted to make it wider, just split the end curves (2 each end) along a middle horizontal line and add straights one at a time to the 4 curves. 

"You can never have enough straights".

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

Can you just add straights or does it change angles. The layout I'm using could be bigger, longer, as I have more table. Whats the best way to make it longer without causing track going together problems? Thanks Ron

It seems like when I put the track sections together they are loose in the joiners. Is there something you do to help to tighten this?

Also do you use track insulators like for blocks if you are setting up a DCC layout. I ask as the layout I bought was for a normal DC setup but going to DCC to start. Thanks Ron

Quote from: Franz T on December 12, 2010, 08:17:15 AM
Not only is "smoke" messy, but it looks extremely unrealistic. Many decades ago when I still modeled in HorriblyOversized, I had two "smoking" steamers with Seuthe units.  All you get is a little wisp of smoke for about a minute or two and them you have to start the messy process of re-filling.  Leave the smoke to the Lionel tin-plate crowd, it probably goes great with the missile launching flat cars....

Your right I did this with LGB. Ron