I'm not sure I know what you are asking.   

If you're asking if you can connect both "switch boxes" together and plug each into its own respective "turnout" using only one power supply, then the answer is yes.
I believe Bachmann provides this information with their "turnouts".

If you're asking if it's possible to control two "turnouts" with one "switch box", using one power supply, the answer is also yes, provided you remove the plug from the "box" side of one "turnout" and splice the wires to the other.

Do you need both "turnouts" to switch the same way or opposite ways?

Yes, Bob you are right everyone in entitled to their own opinion.
Its part of what makes each of us individual, and "That's a good thing".

Sorry, but it's hard for me to cut anybody any slack when they consistently attempt to force their will on, and belittle, others.

The poster, I directed my reply to, appears to feel it's his/her duty/obligation to correct others publicly on this site.
I was just giving him/her a dose of  their own medicine.

I know I know, I shouldn't have, and that by doing so it lowered me to that same level.
My apologies.

Yes, let's have some fun and go lay some more tracks.

Cease fire in effect  ; )

"The smoke and steam from a steam locomotive, especially a wood or coal burner did not produce a lot of pollution."

Gene are you speculating/dreaming or do you have actual fact to support this?
I am presuming you're speaking of as delivered?

AFAIK There is no currently operating re-built/re-furbished from the "Glory Days of Steam" locomotives that do not require a special EPA permit to operate. If I'm wrong, which I am known to have been, please enlighten me as to which and when.

None that I am aware of will even pass 1980 Federal EPA standards. Did I miss something?
All, AFAIK, have been granted exceptions strictly specific to place/date/ and time.

"Unlike today's high chimneys, the low smokestack of a steamer didn't allow the smoke to go very far from the track.  It settled on the track and acted as a major fertilizer, making it necessary to tame the wilderness with some regularity."

This statement is just simply mis-information, or possibly ignorance.
You younger folks may regard this as misspeaking.
We older folks refer to this as a blatant BS.

The early railroads burnt untold tens of thousands of acres of forests and homes due to embers from steam locomotives.
Do a bit of research Gene
Please post the chemical composition of both wood and coal burning waste byproducts as they directly relate to "fertilizer".
Shame on you, especially posing as a former educator on this site.

"It did get on the family wash if the wash was out to dry at the wrong time, but I'm not sure that is pollution, per se. "
What was the right time to hang the laundry?
Is soot, whatever the source, not pollution?
Again, please post reference regarding chemical composition of said "soot".

If you have nothing to counter-challenge me on, I would suggest a challenge on my sentence structure or maybe spelling.

Maybe you can save a bit of face.

I'm disappointed with you on this Gene.

You're welcome.
Hope you found the link helpful.

Your presumption is correct in your reply regarding the design of the leading and trailing trucks. It is for this reason B'mann recommends the 19r for that loco.

Like I said the "J" will run on it but she won't like it.

If you've got any more EZ track, experiment with it laid out on the floor.
Use some 19r as I suggested to transition into the 11.25r curves. I think you will be pleasantly surprised as how much better the "J" and all your other lokies, will perform.
See for yourself.

Sorry for the delay in posting joe935 but I was called away from home.
Easements are as C855B stated,
Using B'mann EZ track you can remove 1 piece of 11.25r track and substitute 2 pieces of 19r (one on each end of your curve),
Or better yet, remove 2 pieces of 11.25r and replace with 4 pieces of 19r, two on each end, (leading and trailing).

Here's a link you might find helpful;

http://www.trackplanning.com/easements.htm

Hi joe935,

Hmmm..."perform well"...is subjective at best.

Maybe I can shed a bit of light on what I think you are asking?

Q. Will the "J" negotiate an 11.25r EZ track curve without derailing?
A. Yes it will, at slow speed, but it sure doesn't like it.

Bachmann recommends using the "J" on the 19r. EZ Track.
It runs much smoother, with less wobble and slowing, and doesn't try to climb the rail.

It's good practice to always go with the widest radius possible when planning/building your layout.

If 11.25r is the maximum radius your real estate will afford so be it.
Just post a maximum 25 smph speed limit. 
Traverse the curves slowly and you'll be alright.

Might I suggest a little research on easements?

My experience, and reply, is based on the "New Spectrum J" released about 2-3 years ago, not the older "Standard" version.

Good luck.

Intelligent people talk about ideas.
Smart people talk about events.
Simple people talk about other people.
Enough said.

Quote from: siderod on July 16, 2008, 07:20:14 PM
I assumed that it would run on 9 inch radius track like all the other manufactures high speed. 

Can you back this statement with "facts"?

Perhaps by posting in what medium "Other Manufacturers" claim this can be done?
Dates and named publications would be helpful or where you have seen this posted by "Other Manufacturers" on the Web?

If you don't know what you're talking about why would you make a public statement that would put in to question your credibility?

Or perhaps you just came here to whine and bash our hosts?

As for the alleged "problems" with your Acela,
Join a club or try to befriend a model railroader who might be willing to teach you basic mechanical/electrical skills.

If you don't have the mechanical aptitude, or the desire, to "tinker" this hobby is probably not for you.

Best to you too.

Be sure the points do not move away from the rails as the loco passes over.
They should be firmly held to the rails.

It would appear that during those days (Pre-Light Mountain) Bachmann was either unwilling or unable to make a running change to avoid this problem. It's doubtful they could have been unaware of this gear cracking as surely hundreds maybe thousands of these early steamers would have, and continue to be, returned for replacement.
It appears though Bachmann, for whatever reasons, chose to rather replace the entire loco with another rather than expend the resources to correct the root cause of the problem.
Cracked gears are what earned Bachmann the unfavorable reputation they created with N scalers many moons ago.

The earlier reference to "Pre-Light Mountain" would appear, to this poster, where Bachmann, maybe/hopefully, has turned the corner to produce a quality Steamer and begin to win back the loyalty of the N scale market.
All the Steamer models produced since then, so far, do not seem to exhibit this gear failure.
This is my own speculation as the N scale communities I belong to have no complaints of this occurrence.
Early reports (past 5 years) lead me to believe Bachmann's efforts on this matter have been successful and some of their latest offerings are among the finest quality Steamers available on the market today such as the "Connie", the "J", and the "Heavy Mountain". The "new" re-tooled Northern is a gem as well.

Now, that said,

Ray's fix is the only one I am aware of, MAJOR surgery indeed.

Other than that, perhaps you might find replacement gears at Northwest Short Line.

You will need ID/OD Calipers and a tooth count.

http://www.nwsl.com/pdf%20products.htm

Good Luck.

See you at home Sheriff.   

Five inches is good, I’ve seen a lot less.

A “lip” could be made by tacking ¼ or ½ square Bass or Balsa wood around the perimeter of your bench. With five inches from edge of track to edge of bench ¼ square should do.
If you feel the need to go taller, then I suggest using plexi-glass strips to the desired height.

As for foam, I would suggest extruded polystyrene, either of these;

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/foamular.asp    (pink)

http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/na/res-us/products/styrofoam/square_edge.htm   (blue)

     

Turn a section of EZ track upside down.
The degree of curvature as well as the radius will be embossed there along with other information (Part and patent #’s, etc.).
AFAIK... In N scale, B’mann only produces two different curve sections, the 11.25r and the 19r.
If you have the real estate, go with the 19r. wherever possible/practical.

Gustav,
My apologies for not getting back to you and this forum over the weekend.
I cannot offer any more advice than brokemoto has already offered in regard to polishing the post of the lokie where the tender drawbar connects (Light Mountain). Maybe double check the obvious contact points within the tender.

On the Connie; maybe inspect, under magnification, that the traction tire is all the way seated in the grove of the driver for correcting wobble. If I have wobbling that is the first thing I check, followed by quartering.

I also see that you have the attention and advise of Victor over on the “A” Forum.
I would recommend you strongly consider his advice.

Victor sees a lot of “problem children lokies” and has/can, offer good advice on a fix for most any problem on pretty much every manufacturers lokies.
You might try to contact him off line via a private PM.

I wish I could help you more.
The only way to gain proficiency is to take it apart and figure it out.
Yeah, it takes time, which many don’t/can’t spend on tweaking.
You, seem to me, the type to want to learn as you have sought out advice.
This small hurdle will soon come to pass and you will gain a greater enjoyment and understanding of the intricacies of the hobby in general.

Tweaking is a given, whether it be steam, diesel, rolling stock, couplers, track work, etc. It’s always something, sometime, somewhere.
Nobody has a tweak free railroad.
Minimal tweaking is obtainable, but elimination, is impossible.
Too many variables prevent this.

This is what makes it a fun challenging hobby IMO.
If every thing was “perfect” all the time there would no longer be a challenge, and I soon would become board and find another hobby.

Don’t get me wrong, I love to watch trains run for hours on end without a single derail or glitch.
I can do that more often than not.
But… things happen. 

As a last resort you can call B’mann, explain your problems, and send your lokies to them.
If still under warrantee they will send you replacements.
If not under warrantee they will send replacements for a small fee.
Well worth it if you begin pulling hair.

If you have a specific road name you want returned, you will want to discuss possibly removing the shell(s) with the service rep.
B’mann has been very understanding with this with me.
Also, you will have to remove any decoder you have installed before sending back.
Do not count on getting your same lokie back.

Best of Luck.

OK I'll look at mine tonight.
Adjusting the driver cover plate screws, on the Connie, was a good thing, as you now see first hand the effects thereof.
Don't be afraid to try the same thing on the Light Mountain.

I agree with the B'mann, check for a bent side rod, even a very slight bend can cause major issues.
You state;

QuoteI've taken this thing apart, lubed everything that moves, checked to make sure everything was straight and lined up, and put it back together...

Are you sure the Drivers are quartered properly?