Does anyone know if ANY section of track between DC and Philly is cleared for 100 mph speed?
The time frame of the speed increase is a real puzzler......What-other than human error-would cause "automatic" acceleration??

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly..and ON TIME!!

When I first got my 2-6-0 the pilot truck was loose....nearly to the point of falling OFF!!!:(
The loco would derail every few feet....I added a lead weight (read: fishing line weight....!!) under the pilot truck.....and....
No more problems!!:)
Good luck!! These little locos run well once they're "properly tuned"....

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly....and ON TIME!!

My layout is a "composite" of locos and cars used by 2 lines that ran in my area - Boston & Maine and Suncook Valley RR.....
Switching is done with a GE 44 ton ("Phase 2", carrying the original Suncook Valley Number 3) and an RS-3 (B&M #1536, which originally ran around Concord, MA)..
My "excursion" loco is an Alco 2-6-0 steamer (B&M 1830)....I run this on a "seasonal" schedule, with a single B&M passenger car....
Three industries are "serviced" -- a waste-to-energy plant, a wood chip-powered generating station and "reserve" coal to another power-generating station.
Getting this to "come together" on a 4X8 layout is.....well.....interesting, to say the least!!:)

May your freight always roll smoothly....and ON TIME!!

Don't know about the handrails.....but the windows of my RS-3 are almost TOO easy to take out!!
My fumbling fingers found this out less than 15 minutes after un-boxing it new....Seriously, I just TOUCHED the "glass" and it popped out!
Easy enough to replace (with glue this time....!!;))....as for the handrails....some manufacturers use adhesive -- others just "friction-fit" these parts....
Good luck!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!

Curious to know if/when Bachmann will produce the GE 44 ton switcher WITH DCC SOUND....!!
The current offering has DCC for lighting/direction...but, AFAIK, no one offers this loco WITH SOUND INSTALLED....
A couple of companies provide installation of sound cards/decoders.......but the finalized cost of parts and labor is STEEP!
The few brave souls who've succeeded in a DIY indicate it's NOT for the faint-of-heart....or those (like me...) with arthritis and poor eyesight....
My Bachmann 44 tonner runs like a champ.....but I REALLY miss not having the ability to use a bell and horn on my layout...
TIA for any info!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!

Quote from: ebblake on January 24, 2015, 08:14:14 PM
Len, thanks for your reply. I did not fully explain my situation in my first post...getting upset so I just blurted out without going into detail. I have modeling glue, my problem is getting to the windows.

Had this issue with my brand-new B&M RS3 loco....the left window panel popped out!!
I managed to get the window out of the cab.....then used Aleen's Tacky Glue -- along with micro-tweezers and a "needle-point" X-Acto blade-- to re-seat the window....
Took about 15 minutes.....and a fair bit of "colorful" language.....to get it right!!:)

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!

Brass track is NOTORIOUS for getting grungy FAST!! Most have moved on to nickel-silver track, which is MUCH more resistant to tarnish and dirt build-up....
Steel track isn't much better than brass as far as cleaning regimen...
If you're forced to stay with brass or steel track....be prepared to apply some "elbow grease" often!!:(

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!

Many- including myself - have used asphalt shingles for roads.....you can pick from a wide variety of shingle colors/types to "match" the style of road you want to model....
Because a typical shingle has some thickness you'll probably want to do some "shoulder" work.....I just run a bead of latex caulk along the edge, smooth it, and sprinkle it with ballast - or even CAT LITTER!!:D Works and looks great, IMHO.... Good luck!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!

EXTREME temperature variations should be avoided.....But cold storage CAN be done, provided MOISTURE is controlled.....
Desiccant (ie., silica gel, etc) is an inexpensive means of keeping moisture to a minimum.....just use enough for the area you're controlling..
Try to eliminate "air pockets" -- sealing locomotives in Zip-Loc bags with a small packet of silica gel, and REMOVING excess air...then packing in sawdust or shredded
newspaper will offer a lot of protection....
Obviously, if you bring something from COLD to WARM.....allow PLENTY of "thaw" time at room temperature before use....
Good luck!

May your freight ALWAYS roll smoothly...and ON TIME!!