I took a look at the shop and Bachmann already has prices up.
$439 per piece.

Jeebus that's a lot of money. I'll wait for it to show up on the second-hand market for half the cost.

Thank you! I just read through the mid-year announcement pamphlet and saw the DeWitt Clinton.

I always take a moment to look over everything with a fine-tooth comb and an NMRA gauge. A set of precision screwdrivers is a favorite item.

When I put together part of the local historical society's Christmas train garden, I used EZTrack. The options and combinations for the nickel-silver track are just about endless, and I've not had to replace a single piece over 4 years of it running 16 hours a day for over 2 months then taken apart, stored for a little over 9 months, then put together again

Bachmann uses track compatable with all major brands of N-gauge track and joiners, so if you have some from, say Atlas, they should also work

The great thing about Bachmann track is that it all connects, whether you have the older no-roadbed track (like Atlas makes), the black roadbed track (steel rails), or the gray roadbed track (nickel-silver rails). It's cheaper to use the black track, but you are very limited in what you can do. I think it comes in 18"-radius curves, 9" straight sections, and a 90* crossover and not much else. With the gray track, you are limited by your imagination and 15"-radius curves.
If you want less than 15", you need to look to Kato track. Just know that most trains bigger than a 4-4-0 and 4-axle diesels will not work on less than 15" turns.

I would imagine on prototype railways with high-grade areas that have to have gigantic multi-mile inclines, there would by necessity be crossovers and sidings on grade.

Mountain railways would of course put crossovers and switch tracks where they needed them, on or off grade.

Mine railways and tramways operated almost exclusively on grades and would put switch tracks and sidings whereever they wanted.

I would try putting a flathead screwdriver in there and popping it open. You may need to glue it afterward, though. Just make sure not to glue the new coupler in there, or you're gonna have a bad time.

The easiest way to post a photo is through the attachments

Love it. But even if it's just for a Christmas set up, I would quickly move away from brass track because of it's tendency to very quickly oxidize. Many ways to clean the oxidation off, but residue will inevitably work into the motor and kill it randomly by bridging electrical gaps.
Steel track is going to be pretty cheap as most people are just trying to get rid of it, and it lasts quite a while. But if you live in a humid environment it will rust and then whem you clean it, iron will work into the engine.
Nickel-silver track will last almost forever because when it oxidizes the "rust" will still conduct electricity just fine and you won't have to clean your track nearly at all.

I know Jo Ann's Fabrics isn't exactly on the normal stop for model railroaders, but if you have a Jo Ann's Etc. nearby, they have some Woodland Scenics products (trees, grass, rocks, molds, etc.) that you might still be able to grab at a discount.

In my experience, I've found it best to stick to the same manufacturer for interconnecting small parts like wheels and trucks. Especially in small scales.

Any chance on an updated re-release of the sets from the 80s/90s such as the John Bull, Prussian, Lafayette, or DeWitt Clinton? Maybe with DCC in a coach?
For under $300 so people actually want to buy it.

Cardboard and paint. If you want to go further, use plaster to make a little hill leading up to the crossing and paint that.

I finally glued the stiffening board to the underside of the foam and am currently waiting for it to dry.
I took a second look at the holes I made for the computer stand and remeasured their distance to the side. They are off-center by a few inches. I opened up my trackplan and moved some things around. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The only thing I needed to take out was the demolition house by model power.