I tried the 1000 ohm resitor scross the programming track.   It didn't seem to make a difference with any of my locomotives.   It did not solve the "read" problem with the Bachmann loco.  So I'm still looking for a solution.

Thanks, Jward.  I'll give that a try.

I have a Bachmann Model N gauge steam engine that is factory equipped with DCC.  The problem is I can't get the engine to read any of the coding information.  I can write to the module but I can't read.  I know I can wwrite to it because I set the engine number without problem.

When I am trying too look at the CV's I can't get in  I believe I can set the codes, but without feedback I can't be sure which CV I am writing too.

Any help would be appreciated

P.S. I'm using a Digitrax Zepher master station.
The engine is a4-6-2 Pacific logo'ed for C. B. & Q. Cab No 2968 and identified as a Bachman product

There's a You Tube segment that shows a similar problem caused by too small a gap between the rail and the guard rail at the frog.  Could be the problem.  Check the gap on all the guard rails - both turnouts - and see if one is unusually small.

Thanks for the responses.  I felt sure it was on the internet somewhere, but I'm not real great at creating searches.

Advice other than learn how to spell "Early Versions" 

Particularly to the Bach Man but to anyone else that might help.

I purchased each of the Spectrum 4-8-2 Light Mountain and 2-8-0 Consolidated Locomotives shortly after they came out in 2002 or 2003.  I am finally getting around to using them and want to use them on a DCC system.  I believe they are somewhat DCC Ready, though not it the best sense.  I was recently told there should have been some information on converting them to DCC "in the box".  However, I haven't found any, and haven't found anything on line.  Which means I should have tried here first.

Can Bach Man(or someone) provide copies of what will be required to make the conversion? Any additional advice, cautions, or "you don't want to do that"s would also be appreciated since I'm not the first to attend this rodeo!

Piyer! You dog you.  Why would I want to sell such a valuable antique and saddle some unsuspecting soul with the responsibility of disposing of such an obviously contaminated item.

You are probably right, but half the fun is re-working this old stuff.  However, I think I am going DCC this time, and I'm going to be very selective about which of my old loco's I even think about equipping with decoders.

Well, I just needed to twist hard enough.  I got the clue looking at the chassis drawing on page 8.

Thanks, Mark. 

It sure sounds simple (I opened the link). However, I can't feel any give in the truck or obtain any release from the frame.  There are some copper contact straps from the truck to the motor that can sure get messed up if you try too hard though.  Everything appears to be correct, but I wonder if there might have been another variation in the model. 

I suspect it's one of those things that classifies as "simple" once you have done it once.

Yes, the pins are there, but it doesn't do any good to pull them out.  I  would still like to think the pine are the answer, but I can't make a connection.  It releases the drive gear, but doesn't seem to effect the trucks. 

Each truck looks a little like it is built in an upper half and a lower half.  There are some ears that hold the lower half in place, but they are substantial and very tight.  There are four per truck, which makes it difficult to release them all, plus I fear that any more pressure than I have already applied would only break them.

Back to the pins.  When I removed the top plate - and the gear train fell out - I could see the top of the truck.  It looked like there was a split insert from the truck that held it in place,  i  little like a split funnel.  Again it was very wide and tight, but it has been the only thing that looked like it night release the truck .

If I could send you a picture of something that might help just let me know, and I'll try.  AS an FYI I might mention that I am a retired engineer - not railroad - and am used to chasing solutions to problems.  I might be willing to try something the average person might not.

Thanks for the help so far.

Right on target Spookman.  The model I have is the the F9a 1971 model. 

"The next version emerged circa 1971. It came with a smaller shell and a black-metal chassis with a white-metal top (the middle mechanism pictured above)."

Thanks for the help up to now, and in advance.  Now, how do I remove the trucks

Sorry for a mistake here.  This is not the loco with the metal draft box.  This one has a plastic box that apparently requires the 1129 universal conversion kit.  this is ont material to the problem, but I should provide accurate information.  Thanks. 

I'm new to the Bach-Man boards, but I could use some help.  I have an Older F9A (or maybe an F7A) Amtrak loco and am trying to convert it to MT couplers.  MT pack 1115 is for the older style unit with metal draft gear boxes (it fits).  The instructions match my loco, but the new coupler has to be installed from the top of the truck per the MT drawings showing the draft gear box.  I have tried everything I can, but cannot determine how to get the truck, or some portion of it, off of the locomotive. ny help would be appreciated.

As an aside, I don't know where I got the loco, but I have had it for many years.  It kind of matches a description saw on a posting.  It is heavy, runs well, and pulls like a horse - albeit a little noisy.  There are no traction bands on the wheels.  The loco body is not the split body that my ATSF F7 have in them, but is a one piece body, with removable top to get at the gear train.