Guess I'm in trouble again. My plan is to install a right hand switch to a right hand switch. (Sort of back to back )the straight sections on both switches parallel. I'm pretty sure I know what you are saying. I have to put a section between the 2 switches. I come from way back and this DCC has me floored. I seldom experienced troubles or could figure them out with the old DC. But what a fantastic improvement. I was doing "G' scale when this DCC came on board. I could send a picture by email but not sure how to do it here!
H-0 got a great kickoff back in early 40's when parties from this area were among the best.
Sure thank you for your help.
Joe

All....No explanation for the short disappearing when I had the auto reverser and insulated joiners in the system. As before the Engine ran good untill hitting the isolated sections. Only thing I can think of, is that the nail shorting must have been intermitting. I'm sure that placed a "bug" in my thinking.
If I may continue, Now that I have the main juice problem solved, I might be causing another,I want to install a crossover, 2 switches to get from one track to the other , immediately I see a short, so I would isolate the track where the 2 switches meet ( insulated rail joiners in the cross track)  Do I get beyond this problem,  if I wire up the auto reverser that is now surplus,  solving the potential shorting and get smooth running ? I hate to solder wires experimenting.
Joe

Jerry's latest post of the simple dogbone is it . My track is a series of over and under double track so more complicated but mine streched out is a "Dog Bone". No cross over that I see on his simplified. Now, I have to Thank, West Bound, Jerry,Ken,Jward and Donaldson for the responses.
The problem is solved. At 88 years I'm getting a little dull above the neck area. You guys got me to get my , what's left,  thinking cap on. I removed all the wiring,  and the auto reverse. Then started all over . Immediately, the DCC juice shorted out. I found a razor saw laying across the track, removed it but was still shorting. AH Ha maybe something else jumping the rails. Visual inspection did not find anything. However, I then took a strong magnet and probed it down between rails. I use long thin nails to keep track in place during assembly. Lo and behold, the magnet found the nail partially concealled by a tie. Removed it , plugged DCC in, put engine on track and runs the complete circuit as it should. I guess I have to admit that age has caught up with me. You guys got me thinking - thanks so much. I'm a happy Engineer again. BTW, didn't I see in one of the messages that one of you is from Pittsburgh Pa ? I'm from near Greensburg.

Great Forum , Thanks Again !............Joe

John.  You see what I see. No reverse needed. However, when I first applid DCC power the track shorted out. Coming to this forum, it was suggested to install an Auto reverser. I've done that and Track all has power except at 2 spots where I installed insulated joiners for the reverser. My thought being, if my initial DCC wire shorted the track -now with Insulated joiners it runs that there was no short innitially. A short is a short with regular DC or the DCC. I'm overlooking something . Need you guys to tell me what or how.   It's over my head.   Thanks
Joe

I'm working on a continuous new layout. The Engine will start out on the right of a double track, that continues to a loop (no switch ), returns on left side of starter track to another loop (no switch) that returns engine to starting point. I do not see a reverse loop, but several on this forum did, so I purchased a Auto Reverser circuit.and installed the Insulated joiners. in one loop.
The Engine stalls and stops going from the one side to the other. I can't get continuous running. I've been experimenting with insulated joiners in the other loop with temporary DCC connections. No way can I get the continuous run. Always a Stall and stop. Push passed the insulated joiners,runs fine with correct direction. Before the Auto reverser and insulated joiners I did get shorted out. I think it's a great plan but can't overcome the stop then push.
Any help really appreciated.
Joe

I used Carbon Tek for years to clean track. I've used Acetone for at least 5 years, no  problem. I put small amounts on a rag and wipe. The Acetone evaperates fast. I've never seen any damaged plastic.
Joe

The Engine sound on my E Z command is at 4. Has to be turned on by the blinking address button using function.

Thanks Jeffery.   That kind of explains it. So happens, I tested the track in a handy section where it's double track and no way near either of the return loops :)It appears that the auto reverser will work in that area. With the insulated gaps, I found the AC to be 18v Ac on both sides, thus no shorts. now I'm wondering, as I have insulated joints at the same location of the (  Side by side ) double track , Can one Auto reverser handle both tracks ? Wires from one track tied into wires of the other track then to auto reverser ? Chances that 2 trains will pass in that area are almost nil. You've been a great help, I was in over my head .
Joe

jward
On my previouis layout I had a crossover from one track to the other where I had double track. Most of the remaining layout was single track with continious running. Never had a problem with the DCC with one wire connection from control. However, I'm aware of old Atlas return loop controls but I don't see a return loop in my present layout. You best describe it as a dogbone. 2 tracks with a loop one North and 1 South. No turnouts. Reading the forums, I gather that DCC has a auto reverser that must be similar to the old Atlas control. I wasn't aware of that. Would 1 or 2 of the reversers correct my problem at the 2 dogbones ? As I was laying track and testing it, the parallel tracks with the crossover , never caused a problem . The problem came at time of final spike. The Reversers I see are computer boards, Can a novice wire and connect them ? Sure thank you for the reply.

It's a new one on me. Just finished laying track for a new layout. I'm using DCC that I've used before. My layout is simple enough to me. Its double track with a return loop at both ends. the return loops themselves are single track. A double track entering the loop by going to single track then meeting the double track again after completing the loop heading other direction. I have crossovers between the double track at one point. Powered the track up and could not get continual juice. (shorted ) I then disconnected the track in 2 spots, Powered up fine. Reconnect track and shorted out. The only tester I have is a DC meter. I put insulated joiners where I had disconnected. Power great on both sides of disconnect now isolated. Tested with my meter, and on one side of the insulated joiner , I have + on left side. The other side of insulated joiner has a - on left side.  I'm afraid to run an engine over this point. Seems in earlier years I had reverse loops and used a reverse loop switch  that had to be thrown while train was in reverse loop. I do not have reverse loops now. Can anyone explain my problem and a solution ? BTW I do use the Bachmann E Z Command and had crossovers on previous layouts with no problems .

is there any way to program the master volume on the H-0  E Z command unit. I recently installed a decoder in an older Diesel and the volume blows my ears off. The seller has offered to reset the unit off  "Default"  and lower the volume, if I return it. Before I go through the expense of shipping snd packing both ways thought best to post this on the forum.
Joe W

Digitalgriffin.............to the rescue again. Watched video, yes scary but works. I have the 2 roofs off. Now to find a lighting bar or system for DCC , so I can add lights. You've been a great help.  Thanks so much
Joe

 ;Digitalgriffin................You hit the nail on the head !! I did order these 2 cars from Walthers. I have contacted them, but haven't heard back as yet.
Yes, appears to be wired for lites but no lights. Yes, 2 screws at top of truck. You solved my problem.
Now any idea as to futher dismantle, so lites can be added ?  Wondering if Walthers has an exploded diagram ?  Will await a Walthers reply.

Thanks so much.
Joe

I have 2-- 11 1/2 " H-0 passenger cars. Bought new about 4 years ago. Never ran them as they wouldn't clear my tunnels. I can find no markings as to who the manufactor is. Just placed them on a test track and no lights. The pickups are working from the trucks to the floor of the body and contact transfer beyond looks fine. I can't see any lights in in the interior ceilings through the windows. These cars are hard to get apart and I don't want to dismantle any further. My layout is DCC I have tried DCC current in the track and the old DC . Nothing. Any clue as to who made these cars ? I'd like to contact the MFG for help . Well made, beautiful cars, Interior details etc.
Joe

GIjoe 80
WW2 Navy vet here. Dismantleling a 5 x 9 H-0 layout.  I have oodles of track and some turn outs. The track is 3' flex style and some sectional all usuable and in operation yet. You figure out what you need trackwise and I'll send it to you No charge. All I need is the postage.
Joe W