You may find some on eBay or Worthpoint. It might be simpler to use another mfg's Code 80 track that comes in 30 degree and 15 degree sections to replicate those old Bachmann 45 degree arc curves.

Len

It looks like all the parts are available to "build your own" from the parts store.  I've done this with some 'Thomas & Friends' locos that went out of production, but the parts to build one were still available. As you noted, it's more expensive than buying a complete loco. But the alternatives are doing without, or buying a pig in a poke on eBay.

Len

No, it's plastic, and very detailed. Definately not Plasticville.  Almost like something you'd get from Walthers.

Len

Pulled this out of production kit from a box of stuff that had been in storage for some time. Looks like an interesting kit, but I'm curious if anyone who has built this in the past can give me a heads up on any pitfalls to avoid. Things like construction going smoother if certain steps are done in a different order than shown in the instructions.

This is the kit:



Len

Bachmann probably does not offer curved turnouts because the demand isn't high enough to justify the cost of tooling up to make them. Several other manufactures offer curved turnouts, only the majority of them are in Code 83 rail size.  Atlas and Peco both offer curved turnouts in Code 100 rail, but without roadbed. Shinohara used to offer curved turnouts in their Code 100 line, but that entire line was dropped in favor of Code 83 rail. You may find the Code 100 versions on eBay, but they tend to be pricey.

Len

Almost all slot cars sold as "HO" are actually S-scale (1/64th), and would fit right in on an American Flyer layout. Unfortunately, that doesn't do much for HO modelers.  It's similar to the situate where 1/76th scale models are sold as being "HO" (3.5mm/ft scale), when in fact they are actually "OO" (4mm/ft scale) because the trains for both run on the same 16.5mm gauge track.

If you want operating vehicles on the track, you're pretty much stuck with the oversize stuff. The other option is fill in the slots and use static scale vehicles.

Len

For any "kitbashers" who can't wait on Bachmann, the chassis from the Mantua 2-8-2, latest version, makes a good starting point to make your own.

Len

As long as your locomotive is equiped with a decoder, it should work with anyone's command station. Including the NCE Power Cab.  The only issue with steel rail is it tends to need cleaning more often thean nickle silver, and it's not quite as conductive. But for a basic up-and-over figure-8 that's not really a factor.

Len

The parts diagrams and parts store do not list the actual size or threads for any screws. They only give the part number.  This one seems to be in stock:

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_630&products_id=7275

Ln

According to the Digitrax 'Decoder Selector' you mention, the currently recommended decoder for that loco is the DH165IP.  After the dummy plug for DC operation is removed, it should plug directly into the 8-pin socket inside the loco.

Len

OSHA inspectors will be by to check out that plant in the morning.

Len

The point-to-point reverseing track system does not care what runs on it's track, as long as there is enough track for whatever it is. It could be a 2-8-8-2 steamer, a DD40AX diesel, or a PCC trolley.

Len

If you place the chassis with the "TRACK - PAN" switch towards you, pin 1 should be the left most pin on the side closest to the switch. If it's not marked with a '1', look for a dot or triangle near it.

Len

If your locos were in storage for an extended period, they probably need to be lubricated. Also check for any lint buildup between the wheels and pickup wipers.

Len

A Q-tip dipped in warm soapy water can be used to get heavy crud out of crevices, like between the boiler and running board, if the brush does not get it. Go back over the area with a Q-tip dipped in plain water to remove soap residue when you are done.

Len