It has the stock, Bachmann decoder in it. 

Hi AGSB,

Thank you for the response.  Unfortunately, the links show examples of the ceramic capacitors, but not the surface mounts.  I like the idea of using the stock board if possible because it holds the LEDs in place and makes for easy connections.  I'm about at the point where I will scrap the whole board and just wire in the best after market decoder that will fit.

Wayne

All,

The issue of noise is really beside the point.  I and others in my club have seen the improvement in the ability to program Bachmann locomotives once the motor capacitors are removed.  Sometimes, the ability to program other locomotives (programming on the main) is hindered if a Bachmann locomotive is on the main somewhere.  I don't want to remove ALL of the capacitors - just the ones related to the motor.  I suspect it's some combination of C1 and C2 with the others used for anti-flicker. 

I find it shocking that Bachmann suggests doing so in the literature provided with the locomotive, yet they cannot find anyone who knows which ones to remove.

So let me rephrase:  Which are the surface mount MOTOR capacitors that Bachmann recommends removing from the 44 Tonner?

Thanks,

Wayne

 

All,

Thank you for the opinions, but without going into detail I've seen the improved performance of other Bachmann models once the motor caps are removed.  I've seen the noise they create in the DCC system when they are not removed.  I just want to know which ones to remove. 

Thanks,

Wayne

All,

All or most Bachmann locomotives come with information regarding removal of the (Europe required) capacitors on the motor for better performance on American DCC systems.  On newer models, surface mount capacitors are used on the PC board instead of on the motor.  Which ones should be removed?

Model in question is a Bachmann 44 Tonner.  There are five or six surface mount capacitors, labeled C1 - C5 or C6.  Again, which ones should I remove?

You would think that Bachmann's service department should know the answer; however, they referred me to this forum.  That sure doesn't give me much faith in their service department, but that's another story.

Thanks for any and all assistance.

Wayne

Thank you for the info Jim.  What I need are "U" shaped shims that somehow won't fall out.  Maybe some sort of bracket (as you suggest) might do the trick.  Pulling the flywheel and worm and then taking the motor apart doesn't thrill me.  I'll keep the group posted.

Hello All,

I've searched the archives and have not found this question addressed.  If it has and I missed it, I apologize in advance.

I have a current production GS4 (purchased new a few months ago) and it's really a great value.  It runs fine on relatively level track at home, but when I bring it to my model railroad club it bucks and lurches downhill - especially when pulling a train.  For those of you who have not experienced this, older Athearn and P2K diesels and brass steamers have this problem too.  The solution for those models is to add shims to the worm shaft to eliminate excess play. It fixes the problem every time.  Now, here's how this relates to the Bachmann GS4:

The Bachmann GS4 is constructed such that the worm is on the motor shaft and it's the motor shaft that has the excess play.  This isn't a defect, it's inherent in the design.  Short of installing a NWSL gearbox (that would probably require milling the frame), has anyone discovered a fix for this situation?

Please don't take this as a "knock" against this product - I think it's an excellent value for the money.  My son loves it keeps him from wanting to run my brass GS4s on his railroad.  Maybe I'm asking it to do more than it was designed to do.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Wayne Cohen
Morgan Hill, CA