Hello All,

Got a GP-40 Santa Fe which came with my Silver Streak Bachmann freight set.  Seems as though it has an occasional problem with derailment, but only with the trailing truck set.  Could the truck screw be too tight or too loose?  Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

mlt1   

Thanks, guys.   

mlt1

Charles,

I'm not sure what the purpose of the wheel coating is.  I was wondering if it was for traction.  That's why I haven't taken it off yet.  Thanks for the caution.

Thanks for the thought of checking the gauge, Gene.  I'm not sure how to do that though.

mlt1

Gene,

How do I check the gauge?  Is there a tool I need to buy to measure the rail spacing?   

Thanks.   
mlt1

Hello All,

Got a problem with derailment on a turnout (switch track). On a manually switched turnout, I have a problem with my new Silver Streak Santa Fe GP40 EMD.  Whether I run the engine forward or backward, it jumps the rail with the inboard axle of the trailing truck.  Know what I mean?  The leading axle/wheels on the trailing truck rides up the inside of the outer rail of the EZ track turnout (one inch from the joint with the next piece) when I come into the turnout from the curved section toward the bottom of the "Y", so to speak.  Now, let me tell you what I've tried first: I've checked that the rail joiners are not sticking up too far.  I've checked for high spots on the rail, both on the surface the wheel rides on as well as the inner surface of the rail, along where the wheel "flange" travels.  I noticed and corrected when the outer rail was slightly bent upward.  It's level now.  I've checked that the turnout is straightly connected with the next piece, and not gapping on one side.  I tried slightly snugging the inside screw in the engine to reduce excess slop or wobble of the looser of the two trucks (it was the front truck).  None of these things helped.  The only other thing I noticed was on the inboard wheels/axle of both trucks (i.e. the wheels/axles closest to the middle of the engine) there appears to be what looks like a rubber coating on the surface of the wheel that rides on the rail.  This is effectively reducing the difference in diameters between the wheel surface that rides on the track and the "flange" that rides along the inside of the track (to help keep the wheel on the track?).  Can I scrape this coating off?

Any suggestions on alleviating these derailments or this last observation?

Thanks,     
mlt1

Hello All,

Got a question about converting or replacing couplers.  I found a tank wagon car at the shop I go to with markings of one of the companies our company owns, so it would be neat to have it.  One problem: It is a Model Railroad (?) brand car (white and red company logo) with a MRA coupler as my shop employee called it.  It is not a knuckle coupler like on my Bachmann cars.  It is attached to the truck, and the truck looks like it is riveted on with a body mounted die-cast rivet, rather than held with a screw.  I've never yet seen a Union 76 brand car, so I'd like to buy this one, but the couplers are different.  Anyone have some suggestions?

Thanks,     

mlt1

Hi Glenn,

What do you mean by "open grid benchwork"?  I'm still quite new to railroading.  What is that like and how is it constructed?

Thanks.

mlt1

It can be costly, to be sure, if you are a "connoisseur" of fine rail stock.  I, for one, am just in it for sheer enjoyment and "stress reduction".  I have spent only $200 and have a basic oval, with a "trombone slide" shaped extension, EZ track with integral roadbed, a 4-4-0 with tender and three cars, obviously a power pack/controller, two buildings, and even four trees!  And all for about $200.  Just keep an eye on prices as you shop and move around.  Plus, all the stuff I've mentioned was purchased new, not used.  My train shop has decent prices, I think.

Hope this helps.   

mlt1

Hello All,

Got a problem and would appreciate some suggestions.  I am relegated to the humble 4x8 sheet of plywood for my HO layout.  I made a simple frame for rigidity, and it turned out well.  Only problem is - plywood, as some other building materials, tends to gas off large amounts of formaldehyde, to which I am sensitive.  Have had to remove and let air out a couple times already.  Even tried sealing top and bottom with polyurethane and letting that air off.  Are there any board materials or alternate suggestions that would yield a 4x8 equivalent layout?   

I'd be grateful for any ideas.     Thanks.

mlt1

Can someone respond to my question about wheel/axle buying above?

Thanks.   

mlt1

I figured that's what he meant.

Thanks, Gene.

mlt1

Thanks for the translation!  Guess I've got some jargon to learn, too.   

Hi Jake,

Forgive my ignorance, but what is, "AFAIK"?

mlt1   

Thanks to both of you.

mlt1   

Noticed a peculiar thing tonight: Turned on the train this afternoon when I got home from work.  Needed more throttle to achieve the same speed as yesterday.  Later this evening, when it was dark, I turned on the train and watched it run in the dark (wanted to see the headlamp).  The light flickered and sometimes wasn't hardly lit at all.  Speed seemed a bit erratic.  Thought of running it backward (to assist in break-in per instructions) and guess what?  The engine ran and sounded smoother.  The headlamp (a 4-4-0 steamer) seemed to be more steadily lit.

Any thoughts or comments?     

Thanks.

mlt1