I did'nt want to cause a rucus over the counterweight issue. I was just  seeking answers to a real problem my loco was having.
Dave G  (TOC) has helped me in the past on other locos and I appreciate his help. I only see one loco (mine). He sees many locos and can see if a problem is isolated to one loco or common to all.
I had my loco on 12-28 -07. After being initially wow'ed by the loco I started to experience the problems in my posts.
  I delayed bringing these problems up because if I had the one lemon why should I spoil the joy everyone was having anticipating their new K's.
I also didn't want to discourage undecided buyers away from the loco,as I want this loco to be a sucess for Bachmann so that they might do other DRGW locos. Yea It's self serving to a certian extent as I would love a C-19 !!
As I look at the exploded view of this loco and the hundreds of parts involved it is amazing that Chineese teenage girls can actually get them together! I sure as heck wouldn't want to build them all day long!! 
Maybe I should be  greatfull that some one else builds them and all I have to do is repair them .
It still is disappointing to have to deal with repairing something that I feel should have been fixed at the engineering level not the customer level.  IMHO maybe these locos should have been delayed until the bugs were all out of them!!
I do thank all who have replied and helped me to fix my loco.

I took a counterweight off yesterday. The screw was tight. There is a lock washer under the screw. IMHO I dont think the tiny screw has enough strength to flatten the lock washer. Maybe a star type washer would work better. There is also a flat washer under the lock washer. The hole in the flat washer is pretty big allowing counterweight to wobble.

Can any one E mail me the name of the  person who is fixing this non existant problem. Thanks   dsfunk2@yahoo.com

Bob,  Thanks for input but the valvegear is all assembled correctly and runs smooth.
On my K it is the main rod that is the one binds up. The bind is at the 2nd axle. There is a articulating joint on the main rod.What happens with mine is the main rod lifts up unevenly as the excessive slack in the entire mainrod /counterweight assembly begins to move when you change direction.  The main rod lifts and binds at joint on 2nd axle. The bind is severe enough to lock up mechanism, the motor cannot overcome bind. The only way to clear it is to reach in and straighten mainrod.    I think the weak  suspension springs are allowing to axle to move up and it takes the mainrod with it. 
DOES R-T-R STAND FOR READY TO RUN OR READY TO REPAIR?
Why do I keep getting the BETA version of these locomotives.
I'm better now, my rant is over!!!

Matthew, who is doing your repair on the problem that doesn't exist? I need help fixing my loco that acts like it's unofficailly broken!! You can contact me meeage board if you prefer.

Since this is becoming a Christmas wish list...make mine a C-19 RGS 41. C-19 is a great chice as it ran on at least 3 different RRs and 3 still survive( # 41 , 346 & 340)
Has any one counted how many locos B-man delivered almost in time for Christmas!!!

There is a lock mechanism on the latch that must be released by rotating it ccw (I think) before the latch releases the door . Should be a diagram that comes with car to show how to open door.

If you are near a hobby shop you can look for Tamiya brand paints they have colors that often match manufacturer colors. It is a water based paint and used by auto and military modelers. I matched 2-8-0  smokebox color with them. You could pop off smoke stack and take it to store with you to match color. As the plows were installed seasonally it is very likely that the shop either didnt paint the bolts or if they did the paint wouldnt match the dirty smoke box anyway. I painted mine black and they look ok. Hope it helps.

Thanks for links but this problem was'nt on the list.

My DRGW 455 K runs sweet and quiet but it has this little anoying quirk after a few loops around my indoor layout I will stop the loco and try to reverse it,some times it reverses some times not.  When it does not reverse I noticed the  2nd axle lifts up and the siderod jambs. If I pull rod down loco runs ok.Siderod has a joint between 2nd and 3rd axle to allow the rod to flex as drivers negotiate rough track, however rr track is perfectly flat. This also will happen if loco is run a few laps in reverse then stopped and I try to run it forward . I'm starting to think that problem is related to prior post about loose counterweights. There is a lot of play in the siderod /counterweight part of the mechanism and I wonder if that is causing lock up problem as motor /gearbox runs smooth as glass. Anyone else having this problem???, Any help would be appreciated.

The counterweights on my k27 are wobbly/loose. The screws are tight ,that was the first thing I checked. Is anyone else suffering this malady? Anyone have a cure?

Jon, I know the handrails are metal,what I would like to know is are the stanchions/brackets for the rails made of metal? Yes it is a beautiful model!!!

Mr. Bachmann,
Are the handrail stanchions on the new tank car plastic or metal? I looked at photos and can't tell.  I am hoping they are metal for durabilities sake as I have seen broken rail holders on Accu's tankcars .

Mr. Bachmann,
I thought the ideal package for BACHMANN to offer would be all the SMALL parts that make the different variations of the locos ie, plows ,doghouses pilots. If you look at the drawings sent with the locos its the parts in the boxes on the drawings. The kit could incude other items like builders plates, plow brackets( to fill on holes on smokeboxes)and extra headlights. The kit could also serve as a source for commonly broken parts like handrail brackets and pilots. To offer it in plastic wouldn't be real expensive and would allow modelers the chance to make limitless variations.  Anyone else out there besides me who would buy the kit  
   

I recievd my K on 12-28 -07.  It is a beautiful engine. After lubing it up I ran it on my 8 x19 ft indoor loop of track. There have been a lot of questions regarding running K on 8 ft dia. track.   Here's what I found;
1-It only needs about the clearance requirements of a Connie or 45 tonner.
2-It can push or pull a train using the front coupler without derailing car being pulled or pushed. No problem with tender coupler.
3-It did not negotiate 5 ft. dia. curve. Tender and engine hit. I pushed loco into curve it felt real tight, the fact that so large a loco runs on 8 ft dia. is  a miracle, dont expect tighter curves than that!!
4-It has gone thru lgb 8 ft dia. switches without problems.You may experience a tapping sound in curves,mine is caused by 2nd axle riding up and falling down on rail,the more it ran the less it did it. I suspect the driver springs may not be strong enough to hold driver down during tight curves, and suspect the problem wont surface on larger than 8 ft dia. curves.
5- loco doesnt slow down at all running thru 8 ft dia curves.
6-loco starts moving  on very low voltage even before headlite lites up!
7-I'm a rivet counter and a few of the small but easily changed details are not correct for the drgw 455 version,does that bother me? ,not in the least.
8-Easily pulls 7 cars will definatly pull more cars but thats all the cars I have unpacked at the present!
9- Pittman motor is huge and gear box is substancial as well, a cooling fan is mounted above motor to keep motor running cool!!
10-Thank you Bachmann for making my favorite engine at a price I can afford !!  I hope this helps answer some questions that have been asked on the forums .

Many apoligies to all. I wrote before I looked. When I last drooled over photos page 4 was'nt there!!Rgs 455 in pic's is most definatly post wreck.Looks like I'll be hunting for decals! I still am very greatfull to Bachmann for crafting my favorite loco and can't wait to get mine!!