Good morning Fred,

I never would have thought of your tip, but it works the best yet on my quick testing. I just happen to have that type of dental brush on hand. The brand name is GUM, comes with a blue and white striped handle and is about 2 3/4" long. It works by just slowly pushing it between the jaws of the couplers and twisting slightly. Be careful when the uncoupling is completed and you are removing the brush. One of the couplers can slightly grab the brush and could cause a derailment if you are too hasty in the brush removal. The 2 3/4" length made it a little tricky between two 26' boxcars but I found that the clear tube that covers the brush (probably sanitary reasons) can be forced onto the handle end, now making the "tool" about 4" long. I'm guessing the brush will wear with use, requiring a periodic change to a fresh one. I can't wait to tell my dentist that his recommended brush for tooth maintenance also has another use.

Hello all,

I have progressed to the point of beginning to operate my switching empire. I am having problems with uncoupling some of the cars. I have tried a shish kabob pointed stick and a sharpened small screwdriver. Each works on some cars but not all. I have checked the couplers for correct height, operation, burrs, the simulated air hoses (pins) all point about 20-30 degrees to the right of the centerline, etc. but I have found no problems I can see. Is there a simple solution I am missing or should I replace the problem couplers? Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for the reply and photo. Definitely makes the decision easier to create the hemlock load, and since both of my engines are wood burners, create a simulated load to deliver to the engine service area. 

Since I have not found any hobby shops in a 50 mile radius that stock On30 supplies, especially Bachmann equipment, I have to appeal to the excellent source of users/experts who read this forum. From some photos posted on ebay of the 18' low sided gondola, it appears to include a coal load. Is this load the "drop in" type or is it attached to the body? If so, is it easily removable? I would like to use it or the 18' flatcar as a basis for a car hauling hemlock bark from a saw mill to a tanning industry. Thanks for any help.

Thanks for the info on the small screwdrivers. I will look for a set. My jewelers set had done all I needed until these safety straps entered the picture.

Good morning, Fred,

Thank you, your advice was spot on and a great help. I just finished taking the tank car apart as per your instructions, except for the ladders which appear to be glued in the holes. I can live with this while I weight decal and weather the car. The only problem I had was the two safety straps holding the tank to the flat car. It took a magnifying glass to see they were held by the smallest phillips head screws I have ever seen. Not having a screwdriver that small, I was able to get enough grip with small needle nose pliers to turn and remove them. Use caution and do it over a large white piece of cloth in case you drop them. The only other advice I can give to your instructions is to use a chisel type blade in an exacto knife to insert in the seam of the tank to gently pry it apart.

This is a great site, receiving help from somebody who has already done what you want to do.

As with my earlier post on the boxcar, can the tank be safely/easily removed from the flat car frame? Can the tank be opened to add weight? I know weight can be added to the underside of the flat car portion but I would prefer not to do it this way. It will also make it easier to do a little weathering and decaling.

Hello Yardmaster and Fred Klein,
Thanks for both of your replies, both were very helpful as I just completed my first removal on a 26' boxcar #27099. Once the top was removed, I understand how everything works. I used a chisel blade on my Xacto knife to gently pry on each corner. I will also add that in future removals, besides the brake wheel and shaft, I will remove the couplers and trucks to prevent damage while I'm concentrating on the roof.

I'm new to this gauge but have started to purchase Bachmann equipment while building the benchwork and laying track. I purchased several boxcars, ventilated and regular, and am interested in detailing the inside area that is visible with the doors open, adding visible loads and some weight. No paperwork was in the kits on removing the body so I'm looking for tips on how to remove the body from the frame without doing any damage.