I'm trying to program this engine with a long 4 digital address

I put it on the program track and programmed cv29.  I then confirmed it with a read.

Values I trI'd are 32 36 38 and 34

When I stick it on the main track it only responds to short address.

I know it's reading cv29 because I I set a value of 1 or 255 the Loco runs backwards as it should

Does it creep then stop, creep then stop?  OR
Move fast, then move slow, move fast then move slow

The later is a quartering issue.  The way to tell is to look carefully to see if the main rod is straight on both sides.  Next watch is roll by slowly.  If it slows down in the same place rotation wise, or lifts a wheel, you are likely out of quarter.

If this was not new out of the box, it is possible someone greased it and the grease dried up and got gunky on the gears.

Well technically speaking a DPDT switch would do the same thing for much cheaper.  But if you are using DCC, an auto reverser like the Digitrax AR-1 is your best bet.

They are very nice smooth runners.  Details are good and accurate to the prototype.  (It's about 6" too long compared to the prototype, but that's a nitpick)  You should be able to pull 20->25 55-ton hoppers up a 2% grade with them.  Sound is okay, but not nearly as good as the H-5 which has a bigger speaker.  You'll need to adjust the sound to lower the chuff volume to hear the bell and whistle at higher speeds.

That said they suffer the same problem as the Mountain and shay class...Gear failure.   Secen trains, seven failures.  Getting replacement parts is difficult.  Replacing them with NWSL equivalents is the best solution.  But this takes some serious skill, gear pullers, rivet, and requartering equipment.  It is not for the beginner. 

That said Bachmann is very good with their warranties and will likely offer you a decent sized loco of a different type in replacement.  (The USRA H-4/H-5 aren't made anymore)

Stupid question, but do the wheels on both sides seem to rotate evenly and smoothly?  If it wobbles, maybe the axle is bent.

A auto reverser just cuts the power to the track, pauses then reverses polarity.

that said you can use a pair of diodes and super caps tied into the track power (one for each leg) to act as a power buffer that slowly drains to bring the trolley to a slow.

Too bad you don't have DCC.  With certain decoders when you switch to DC power, you can tell the decoder to turn off the throttle and it will use the decellerate setting to slow down the train as it does so.

Right you were, it was a bushing around the worm gear that I missed.  A little gear oil and I was in good shape.

Thanks,
-D

Tips for fixing squeel

So I bought my 4 year old son his own train set, the "Santa Fe Flyer" which contains what I'm guessing is a standard line FT.

Within one week is developed a intermittent squeal.  I took the shell off today and listened for the source.  It was the rear truck.  I lubed the front and rear gear with white PTFE grease and the gear axle sides with plastic safe gear oil.  (Front gear and rear gear)  However the squeal is still there.

Any advice without disassembling the entire truck and lubing everything?  I would hate to send it back to Bachmann for such a simple problem.  Or is this a defect?

Question 1:

Someone over at the MRR forums said you are offering the HO 3-Truck shays with metal bevel gears now on the replacement side frames.  Is this true and is this the link?
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_68_92&products_id=1651

Question 2:

I've had 2 H-6 2-6-6-2 and 1 H-5 2-6-6-2 fail and two 4-8-2 Heavy Mtn fail in the drive line (gear tower)   I really don't want to send them in under warranty because I know they are no longer available.)  Is it possible I can get a replacement gear tower recommendation so I can order one from NWSL?  (gear size/teeth count final drive ratio)

I see no problems other then the slight overvoltage which may reduce the life of the LEDs slightly. 

If you want to reduce the brightness and voltage, you can stick diodes in series in the circuit path.  Each one will reduce the voltage by .7 volts.  A full bridge rectifier passes the current through 2 diodes, which causes ~1.4V drop. 

I did this with my diorama at work and reduced the lamp voltage to 10.6V to increase their life, and to put 6.4V to the track (enough to get the sound decoder started on a train).  It's a very useful trick and diodes can be as cheap as $0.10 each.

Quote from: doctord_fl on December 20, 2012, 07:50:24 PM
Heres an idea
http://www.div4.org/sub_pages/diy001.html

I spoke to the author and he said he did this two years ago.

Anyone want to weigh in on this?

Dan

Here you go, he is using this:

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=100

They are VERY bright given their spacing.  I recommend either this in WARM White (incandescent like)
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=474

High CRI (Color Rendering Index) means it's closer to the spectrum of sunlight.  (This is what I plan on using on my double deck layout)

http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=755

You connect them to a power source with these.  They clip right on.  The red wire connects to the positive side of a full bridge rectifier.
http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=857

14.25VDCC - 1.4 Volts (Full bridge rectifier) = 12.85 VDC.  The lights take 12V, but this is close enough to be safe.  It's only 7% over spec, and by the time you pass through the track, truck, and wiring contacts the voltage is probably closer 12.25 VDC or so.

Micromark also sells, these, as well as Amazon and eBay.  So you don't have to shop here.  But their prices are reasonable and they have a wide selection.

You may find the following guide from the US Coast Guard useful.  I found it while looking for marker light information for my Bascule bridge.

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg551/Lighting.pdf

A popular alternative is to use stranded motor/magnet wire.  These can easily handle the 20ma that the lamps require and are considerable thinner then standard wires to help keep them hidden.  You just need to sand the end to remove the insulation.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/514-N5038

I'm just "okay" at repairs.  I'll do basic disassembly and repair of all plastic.  But if you ask me to disassemble running gear, requarter, regear, or remotor a steam engine, I'll run screaming.

Makes me worry when my brass stops working, what I'll do for repairs.

To answer the original posters question, most Bachman has a lifetime warranty on it.  I believe the current repair fee is ~$40.00 (HO Spectrum), and most times they just ship you a new train.  Sometimes they do repair.

If it's something as simple as a broken bell, motor, or whatever, you can order parts from the main website.

Quote from: Tom M. on December 20, 2012, 10:46:03 AM
For the LED, depending on the brightness level you want to achieve, you will want to use a resistor with a value of 1K ohm to 2.2K ohm.  The lower the value the brighter it will be.  If you are using a standard Tsunami decoder, the lighting output is just a bit above 12 volts.  An LED will go "poof" in a matter of seconds at that voltage.

The resistor is generally placed on the (-) leg of the LED circuit.  For a headlight, that would be the white wire.  While you are going through all this effort, I suggest you convert the tender light over to an LED as well.  The LED will last a thousand times longer than a bulb and will not generate the heat that a bulb will.

Tom

I'm a bit confused.  If it's a Spectrum, it should be DCC ready.  All you have to do is wire to the numbered pins (after you remove the dummy plug).

If you bypassed the DCC ready board that was preinstalled, then the tsunami directions say use a 680 Ohm resister which is safe for 20ma up to 14.25 VDCC.

Quote from: keystone on December 20, 2012, 10:46:22 AM
;Digitalgriffin................You hit the nail on the head !! I did order these 2 cars from Walthers. I have contacted them, but haven't heard back as yet.
Yes, appears to be wired for lites but no lights. Yes, 2 screws at top of truck. You solved my problem.
Now any idea as to futher dismantle, so lites can be added ?  Wondering if Walthers has an exploded diagram ?  Will await a Walthers reply.

Thanks so much.
Joe

This is a video on how to open them.  Even Walthers recommended this way.  Although I never did this method myself...made me a little edgy to twist them this much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr2A-QrqiPc