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Shinohara did #4 and #6 Code 100 double crossovers at one point. The #6 is roughly 19.25" long, the #4 is a bit shorter. You can still find them here and there on-line. Some type of roadbed/shims would be needed to bring them up to the same height as EZ-Track.

Len

If you're starting with a DC powered set containing 18" radius curves you could do something like this:



The switches are #4's with 1/2 sections of 18" radius curves to bring the diverging legs parallel again. Create 'blocks' by creating gaps in the rails where the red lines are. I got tired of destroying track trying to get the rail joiners off, so now I just use a cutoff disk in a Dremel tool to cut off the part that extends beyond the rail and put a bit of styrene between the rail ends to keep them from touching. File to match the rail profile.

Feed power to each block section. As noted above, the Atlas electrical controls make wiring fairly straight forward. If you add a second power supply, you could actually have two trains operating at the same time and use the inner tracks as passing siding. Or you could do your original plan and have one train running and two parked.

Len

Soldiering is a skill that has to be learned, like airbrushing without leaving splotches or runs. One of the problems people run into is they don't have the right equipment. They use an iron that either too small, or too large. Or they use the wrong solder or flux. Etc., etc. Like airbrushing, it takes practice. It doesn't hurt to take a precision soldering class if a local community college offers one.

Len

Glad to hear the Kadee 118's are working out for you.

Len

The curve legs of the Fleischmann "Profi" turnouts is somewhere around 24" radius. The standard, not "Profi", curve legs are around 15" radius.

Another issue to watch out for is the flangeways of most European turnouts, Peco being an exception, are way too wide for RP25 profile wheels. At one time inserts specifically for Fleischmann turnout flangeways to make them RP25 compatible were available. No idea if they still are. If not, styrene strips can be used to narrow them.

Len

My layout will not be anywhere near as good as Sheldon's work, plus I'd be more than embarrassed to show my haphazard work at this point in time. 

The only one your layout needs to please is yourself. I've known folks who were perfectly happy with a 4x8 sheet of plywood painted green and a few Plasticville buildings here and there. Not a tree or hill to be seen anywhere. I asked one of them about it and he said, "I like operating the trains, I can imagine the scenery. If others have fun building scenery, they should go for it, but it's not my thing."

Len

It's probably a "tomayto" (US) vs "tomahto" (UK) thing. Or someone just thought it would be funny.

Len

The Fleischmann track I "inherited" when my repair shop was open was for two rail operation. No center studs.

Len

You'll need to clip off the connectors on the end of the EZ-Track pieces that will mate to the turnout. The roadbed on the Fleischmann track looks thinner than the EZ-Track, so you'll probably need to shim it with thin basswood or cardstock to match heights.

I use a heavy duty staples to keep dissimilar track from seperating from the EZ-Track. Mark the location of the staple legs and drill small holes for them. Add a drop of white glue to the holes and insert the staples. The glue keeps them in place, but they are still removable with a pair of needle nose pliars if needed.

Len

Have you tried the Kadee #118 SF Shelf couplers?
https://www.kadee.com/118-ho-scale-sf-shelf-whisker-metal-couplers-medium-932-centerset-shank

Len

I don't own a 44-tonner, but all the other Bachmann 'DCC Ready' locos I have were plug and play out of the box. The only time any hard wiring was involved was when I also wanted to add sound.

Len

Darn!
 I just bought 100 of the 36-inch wheels thinking that was the size for freight cars.

Just think of it as a reason to start building a passenger fleet.

Len

Like I said over in the 'General Discussion' forum where you asked the same thing, any 14-16V AC or DC wall-wart power supply rated at least 1 amp (1000ma) will work to power the switches.

Len

From what Jeff says, if you really want a DCC w/sound GP30 you need to take a serious look at the Soundtraxx TSU-PNP8 sound decoder and 810113 oval speaker.

Len

If the GP30 has a can motor you should be able to add DCC & sound by swapping out the light board with a Soundtraxx TSU-PNP8 sound decoder and 810113 oval speaker.

Len