I have a 51511 2-6-2 B&O Prairie loco/tender, and have lost the parts list.  I need 2 sets of Pilot trucks and 3 sets of trailing trucks.  I'd also like to order the appropriate springs and screws to attach the trucks to the loco.

 I know this diminutive loco has had its problems, but I like it.  If somebody could tell me how to order these parts, I'd be most appreciative.

 Thanks in advince.

  John Murphy

Hi, all.  I was very ill from mid-Jan.'08 - late April '08, but am now ready to restart my little 4'x4'9" Christmas railroad.  Hopefully it'll be up by Dec.
  IMHO, the key to keeping a small road looking right is to keep buildings small.  Detail is critical, and to that end, I'll be using Plasticville Kit Barn, Suburban Station, and perhaps several Cape Cod Houses kitbashed into a farmhouse/Bed+breakfast.
  No building is over 2 stories, and, unfortunately, the Plasticville Gas Station is a bit too big, though I will be using parts from it.  (As a sight gag, I plan on putting a Mom, Pop, and 2-cub Polar Bear family at the Coke Machine, with poppa getting the soda.)  It's too bad the Plasticville Gas Station lost it's clock tower it had in the mid-1960's -- Now THERE was a distinctive structure!  I might have even tried to intigrate that into the layout -- Santa's sleigh in an open bay up on the rack getting a last-minute tune-up?  Hmmmmm....  Will think on that.
  Will keep all interested posted.
   John Murphy

Quote from: lvrr325 on January 27, 2008, 11:44:09 PM
Surprised no one replied.

At some point in the 60s or 70s the clock tower was eliminated from the gas station dies.  Originals can be found at shows if you poke around, they're hard to find but easier than the Tyco gas station.

The reason for the omission is simply to avoid paying the rights to use the trademarked name in the kit.  It should be a fairly simple matter to find an old magazine with an Esso ad and use a color photcopier to reproduce and re-size the logo to the right scale to use on the building.

One other interesting thing about the gas station; the pumps (1940s-50s era) are really too big.  They shouldn't stand very much taller than the roof of a car.   What I think this was a result of is using the O-scale pumps with both the HO and O kits.  The N pumps are more the right size for HO, being scaled down from the pump in the HO kit rather than being sized for N-scale. 

Thanks, Ivrr325.  I was hoping I hadn't remembered wrong.  I had the old clocktower version when I had a "simple" HO 4x8 two loop rr in the 1960's.  Also, thanks for the tip about fuel pumps -- that helps more than I can tell you.  Sorry for taking so long, but I've just recovered from a severe illness.

John Murphy

Quote from: taz-of-boyds on December 07, 2007, 12:34:09 AM
I did not realize 36" was popular with tenders?  I thought they were 33" like regular freight.

Thanks,
Charles

The salesman who helps me at my local hobby shop assumed the same thing -- until he snapped a 33" wheelset in.  He and I were both glad he checked because this Bachmann steamer uses 36" wheels for the tender.
    There ARE times you're better off going to your local hobby shop -- This one is one I've frequented since 1972.  Loyalty does have rewards, just don't abuse the privlidge (sp?).
    John Murphy

Quote from: SteamGene on December 06, 2007, 09:06:24 AM
Your trailing truck wheels may cause the front trucks of the tender to ride too high.  Take a look and see if the front truck is straight on the rails.
Gene

I must've lucked out because the standard Bachmann 0-6-0 shares the exact same chassis with the 2-6-0 and 2-6-2 -- even to sharing the same screw holes and indents.  If you transfer the lead truck/spring/screw (ditto for trailing truck) from a damaged 2-6-2 (one where the drive rods don't go into the cylenders currectly) the conversion is easy --- just remember not to tighten the lead/trailing truck screws tight enough to hinder truck pivoting.

   Tender conversion with new wheels went well - tender doesn't roll as freely as it did with its plastic wheels, but those metal 36 inch wheels aren't going to be falling out any time soon -- for me, the tradeoff was well worth it, since it was either changing wheelsets or trading bad trucks for good ones when tender wheels started to fall off.

   Also, Bachmann's new Southern 2-6-2 would be a good match for a replacement for the "White Christmas Express"....  Keep you all posted on progress and reliability....

   John Murphy

Maybe this should go on the HO board, but here goes:

I've always been attracted to the deminutive 0-6-0/2-6-0/2-6-2.  The older Christmas loco (green/gold) 0-6-0.

  Since purchase, I've converted it to a 2-6-2.  Loco ran well as 0-6-0, and still runs well as a 2-6-2, plus it looks better.  However, tender wheels have started falling out of their trucks.  I plan to remedy this by replacing the plastic wheels with 36 inch diameter wheels from Proto2000 (WALTHERS item # 21257).  Will post what happens.

   John Murphy

To all at Bachmann:

Many thanks for the HO NP&S Box car.  It's going to be a great addition to my Christmas train.  I only hope more cars in HO follow in following Seasons!

John Murphy

Is there any chance the 1950's MoW Jeep "wagon" will go DCC on-board?

I have an 0-6-0 Christmas train which ran perfectly last year ('06) but now has a tender wheel problem -- the front wheel/axle of the rear truck fell out.  As I have several models with the identical tender, I thought the simplest, fastest way would be to buy better trucks from my hobbyshop and simply swap them out truck for truck.  My problem is that I want the tender coupler and drawbar to be in the right plane.  Does anybody know the tender wheel diameter or otherwise advise me?  Thanks.
BTW, the little 0-6-0 (without valve gear) is a great little runner, and has been upgraded to a 2-6-2 with no problem.
- J

What size micro-screws are used to secure the EZ-Track Bachmann turnouts to the plastic roadbed?  00? 000? Other?  Please help.  Thanks. - JohnM

Quote from: Hunt on May 30, 2007, 11:09:15 PM

Quote from: John Murphy on May 30, 2007, 10:16:48 PM
...
   After that debacle, I rethought the layout and came up with a 4'x4' w/ 3 seperate ovals....
    Will try your suggestion, but am having serious 2nd thoughts about EZ Track's flexability (or rather the lack thereof) as far as wiring and track insulation.  I'm disabled, so ease of track assembly is vital.
John Murphy

John,
You were informed a short wheelbase locomotive would not run through a #5 turnout unless it has a polarized frog. Your test proved what you have been told is the case. That is not a debacle. If there is any debacle, it is you did not apply the information you have been given.


You will find no easier track system to use than E-Z Track.  Reading between the lines of what you have written in this and other threads on the Board it is probably best if you avoid track plans requiring the use of any track piece other than straights and curves.   Stick to the basic oval of track. Successful completion of a model railroad track plan requires a fundamental understanding of electric wiring that you seem to have not yet acquired.

I've wired various HO guage railroads in the 1960's (atlas sectional track) and 2 "N" guage railroads (The last one was a loop to loop with homebuilt track detection, CDS to power turnout and automatic semiphore "motors", even a constant intensity LED headlight which worked (for an E-8).  This last layout used Atlas sectional track, and Atlas, Pico, and Rapido turnouts, and lasted for nearly 9 years (mid-1970's to early- mid-1980's)
   I just started back into HO in the last several years, so you're right, Hunt; this is all brand new to me.  (sigh)  At least I try to gain knowledge, but for me, it seems that EZ Track has definite problems for me.
   Sincerest thanks for putting up with me.  - John Murphy

I'm planning to put an HO gauge airport "ramp" (where airplanes are parked and boarded), and needed a large hanger.  Guess what? The Plasticville "O" guage hanger works well (The old "K-line" "O" hanger is better because you don't have to kitbash new entry doors for people)....
   Just something to consider....

Quote from: Hunt on May 30, 2007, 01:19:42 AM

Quote from: John Murphy on May 29, 2007, 09:28:55 PM
Did a test last night w/EZ Track #5 turnout and motorized handcar (shortest wheelbase I have.  On straight DC, Handcar sparked and stalled on the metal frog.  Turnout was straight out of the box, no mods.
   Any ideas on what went wrong?  ...

Sure.

DC or DCC has nothing to do with what you experienced. The same thing would happen on any other brand of #5 turnout with a non-live frog or on a straight track piece with the same length of a rail isolated from power. What happened…  lost contact with power on one side.

Does the Spectrum 0-6-0T make it through?

Attach the wire to polarize the frog and try again. Even doing this you will need some speed for the motorized handcar to make it through the turnout. If it stops again at the frog, follow the instructions on the back of the turnout package about flipping the plug and check the wheel gauge. Does the Spectrum 0-6-0T make it through?

By the way, what was the track plan you used to do the test?
Was it as I suggested or did you have two ovals using two turnouts to connect them with power feeders to each oval from one DC power pack? If the two ovals, where did you place the insulated rail joiners?

I rigged up a test track w/one 9" rerailer track on either end of the straight portion of the #5 turnout hooked up to a standard DC powerpack.  Have not tried other locos yet
   After that debacle, I rethought the layout and came up with a 4'x4' w/ 3 seperate ovals....
    Will try your suggestion, but am having serious 2nd thoughts about EZ Track's flexability (or rather the lack thereof) as far as wiring and track insulation.  I'm disabled, so ease of track assembly is vital.
John Murphy

2 short questions:  Did the 1960's era Plasticville Gas Station have a clock and a top piece on it over the roof?
        How come the new Plasticville Gas Station decals have the Esso Tiger and catch-phrase "Happy Motoring" yet omits the Esso Logo?  (or am I the only one who has caught this?)
John Murphy

Did a test last night w/EZ Track #5 turnout and motorized handcar (shortest wheelbase I have.  On straight DC, Handcar sparked and stalled on the metal frog.  Turnout was straight out of the box, no mods.
   Any ideas on what went wrong?  I tested no other loco, and am seriously rethinking my Christmas display to be only 4x4 and three continous, yet seperate loops.  Considering locos I'll be using, this might be best - and that I want to use straight DC.
    I'm seriously doubting EZ Track is best for DCC.  Any suggestions about which track is best for DCC?  I'll be using steam (mostly Spectrum with a smattering of other brands.  (Shortest wheelbase is Spectrum 0-6-0T)  Thanks in advance.
   John Murphy