I am putting together some plastic model structures. Some of the walls are warped. Can a hair dryer or heat gun true them up?
Thanks Guys!
Dave T

I posted my gripe concerning this situation recently. I have been looking for a stiffer needle spring. I think I have located a solution at a good band instrument repair shop. Woodwind instruments use needle springs. I have a few and will try them as I get the time. I will let you know.
dave T

I have a large investment in EZ track. I change my layout frequently. All of the diesel locos go through crossings and turnouts with no problems. My steamers on the other hand hate the remote and #5 turnouts and crossings. I checked wheel gauge - no problem there. The needle springs in the turn-outs are too flimsey to anchor the points to the rails. The frogs on turnouts and crossings also seem to lift the front trucks of the steamers, causing de-railing.
Anyone have similar problems and/or solutions?
Thanks and Bah-Humbug!!

I found a Bachman Dash 8 40 C #9202 item number 85003 (on the box). The coupler is a hornhook. If I purchase this locomotive, can a knuckle coupler be installed? Space seems to rule out a draft box like the Kadee #5 or #148 outfit. Any advice?
Thanks,
Dave

Hmmmm....Milliput...Is that auto body stuff?...Sounds like that might be my answer. Thanks, Guys.

What material is good to fill in seams and holes in plastic models?
Thanks....

I have the same problem. All my diesels work just fine through the turnouts, but the front trucks of my steamers will not go through. IIf I manually keep the points against the rail of my #5's, I get good results (weak needle spring?)