Hey guys, what is the smallest radius that one would want to run on n scale. I need to set up a layout on  maybe a 4x6 for my grandson and he will want as much track, sidings, turnouts etc, as i can put on it. thanks, david

Hey guys! I am putting in a fairly long span bridge with concrete abutments. What colors have you used for old weathered concrete? I cut all the bridge and supports out of wood so that is what i will be painting. Is there a specific color i can buy or is there something i can mix? Thanks ahead of time for any advice....David

 Any of you guys that have made a river ever used Magic water? I have formed a river out and painted varnish onto my base, which is plywood. I want my river to be fairly clear. What colors do i use for the bottom? Will the varnish seal good enough? I.m pretty well set on using the magic water so that's not the issue. Just dive right in, pardon the pun! thanks, David

How about some more advice!
Based on info from you guys i have decided to change a couple of switches out in order to run a new steam loco. I have seen some hand laid ones on ebay that look good. I know some of you guys lay your own. Would one of those be better than a "store bought" one from Atlas or others. I am using code 83 track, although i don't think that matters. I'm not ready to start that aspect of modeling yet, mainly because of time constraints. In other words, my grandson is impatient! What say ye?    thanks in advance, david

Sheldon,
          Yes i am using flex track although not everywhere. I'm using some straight pieces and all are 22 degree radius. I'm not having trouble on curves. thanks, david

Ebtbob,
         I haven't looked yet but i'm pretty sure that the switches in question are the same length as a straight piece of track which would make them 9" long. Do you feel pretty confident that the 2-10-2 would operate well if i switched, (pardon the pun) to # 6's? thanks, david

By the way, thanks everybody for your input, your answers to my questions on here have become invaluable to me.

Bob,
      I believe those turnouts are numbered 451 and 452. One is a left and the other is a right. It does not have a number elsewhere so i don't know whether they are #4's or#6's or what else they could be. just from looking at pictures i would guess that my switches are shorter than the #4 or #6's. I am assuming the problem lies in the length of the turnout?  Everything i have is 22 degree radius, while obviously these kind of switches are straight with right or left turnouts. thanks, david

Bob,
      I suspect you are correct about the terminology on snap switches. the correct information for me would be that i have atlas #540 series left and right remote turnouts. Would # 4 or #6 turnouts be a better option? I am running an 83 code 22 degree Atlas track. I only have one curved switch and it is a walthers with, i think, a 24 degree radius. Sory for the confusion but don't let it stop you from giving advice........ thanks, david

Just purchased one of these. I love the engine but it just doesn't seem to go through the turnouts without derailing. Does anyone else have that same problem? Why is that? i can run my diesel engines all day with no problems. I have all atlas snap switches except one Walthers curved switch. The two wheels on the front are the problem. Right now i'm running it with the 2 front wheels off. Also the drawbar just slips over the post on the tender and doesn't seem like it stays hooked as it should. Anybody out there? thanks, david

ABC, so a o-6-o would be better than a 2-4-2 and not as good as, say a 0-8-0? More wheels would add a little more weight, right? Of course, a heavier loco would pull better also, right? thanks, david

Could someone tell me if it makes a difference in pulling power if the steam locos have more wheels. I think ones with more wheels (drive?) look a lot better. Which numbers do better if any? I am just talking about from Spectrum on down in cost. Thanks, David

Have any of you guys ever tried one of these? I have been wanting to go to dcc but am not interested unless i can get a system with 5 amps. I just don't think i would be satisfied with anything less. However, i don't have the money to purchase one quite yet. The sound box sounds like i could use it for a while, without spending much money, and get sounds and a horn. That way i could hold off on purchasing a dcc system as well as loco's and still have sound for my dc engines while i continue to work on my layout. I have a grandson who is really looking forward to hearing the diesel engine. I have read some pretty good product reviews elsewhere but value your input. thanks, david

Hey guys, whose system would you recommend, Bachmann, Digitrax, Nce, Mrc? Lhs guy says some don't have enough amps to blow horns,etc. How many amps are needed when you have roughly 60 to 65 feet of track and probably won/t run over a couple of trains. Really interested in sound on locos. talk to me, thanks david

Hey guys, if i decided i just wanted to have sound on my dc loco could i just buy a loco with sound and run it on my track and it work? I have a mrc 1500 tech 11 power pack. Would that work? Which models work better for sound? Bachmann, Atlas ? I think dropping in a sound decoder would probably cost around a 100 bucks? Is that right? How much would a decent sound loco cost? just wondering......

Thanks everybody for the responses.

Ray: Would you have a pic of that ballasted weathered track? thanks david