Those are all powered Bachmann pancakes. With the exception of the lead unit, the rest have had their traction tires replaced with solid metal wheels to minimize fighting between them, even though they are pretty evenly matched.

I had the group up to 6 locomotives, which was truly awesome - it was incredible how well they ran as a unit, and they also had incredible pulling power. They drew very little amps, no more than what you might see with a couple of Athearns running together, maybe less.

As you can imagine though, that string of locomotives was pretty long, approaching the length of the consist itself - so I pared the group back down to four units, with the other two on standby - just for a better look.

Model railroading is fun! 

Another one was recently posted on the Tyco Forum. Scroll up a few...

http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17802&#112931

Quote from: K487 on February 07, 2017, 10:07:06 AM
My 2 cents:

For over 26 years I've put 2 or 3 small drops of Wahl hair-clipper oil close together (from a hypo syringe) on the top of each rail (Code 100) about every 20' apart and just continue running the train(s).  The railcars' wheels spread the oil on the rail heads - very lightly. (Does this make the loco wheels spin?  No.)   Except of for a few very small dots of oil/dirt mix on top of the rails in about 5 places, which occur from a lot of running, and usually show up in the same locations time after time (which are easy to rub off with a cloth or a cloth with a little oil on it) - that's it.  How long between Wahl oiling time?  About 4 to 6 months, and I run one or more trains at least every other day.

As info, I've never used any type of abrasive rail cleaner.  The most "abrasive" cleaner I've ever used has been a piece of thin cloth (often with a drop of oil on it to help loosen the dirt/oil mix on the rail tops) wrapped around my pointer finger.

Hope this is helpful.

K487

I follow a similar procedure with LaBelle 105 track conditioner - which seems to be very close to Wahl clipper oil.

I clean the rails with alcohol, then rub with a pad soaked with 105 over the entire layout - followed by a wipe with a dry pad to remove the excess.

The trains like it, so I like it.

The only time I've used a Brite Boy is after I paint the rails, to insure all the paint is removed from the rail head.

Why are you attempting to pull the wheel off the axle?
Your attached diagram shows the wheelset fully assembled.

NWSL may be your best bet, I have got repacement gears from them before for a Bachmann. They have great customer service. The downside - they are pricey.

Quote from: HoModeler on February 05, 2017, 07:49:01 AM
Like everyone else is saying don't be quick to buy anything do your research as well before you go Some Train show venders sell JUNK... The train show that comes to my area SELL's ALOT of JUNK & not worth the $8.00 admission fee. Go to Vendors that offer Test Track so you can see if Loco's are working & ASK a lot of questions to the vendors watch there body language if the vendor operator seems he does not seem interested in your questions WALK AWAY.... ( For example if you see a box of train cars & a sign everything in this box $ 10.00 chances are it's JUNK don't waist your money )... Trust me it happened to me I thought I was getting a good deal on some rolling stock & every car turned out to be JUNK & I wound up throwing them in the garbage a waist of $9.00 I threw away.

Just a point or two about the above...
Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned veteran, if you see a box that says 'everything in this box $10', yeah it might be junk but you don't know until you LOOK at what's in the box BEFORE you part with cash. Nobody is going to put premium items in a box like that, nor should we expect them to...but there may be parts/pieces/shells/etc. that are worth $10 or more to YOU.
Second point - NEVER throw anything away! 

All good advice. That said, it's a train show - have fun! It's your first show. You WILL overspend. You WILL get things that are impulse buys. It's OK!
I make up lists before train shows too, and have a budget (the cash in my pocket). 99% of the team I find nothing on my list, but I DO find other things that turn out quite well.

BTW, it is like walking into a wonderland - your grandson will be in hog heaven 

Quote from: richiy on January 24, 2017, 06:56:28 PM
Searched for a while but have not found anything except someone in the model railroader forums asked the same question and it was suggested to give it a try with some extra track. Make up a test track. Part of model railroading.
I remember years ago having issues with S curves on a layout.

richiy

Yeah, I would if the layout wasn't in a storage container at the moment, along with my extra track....and I owned the car in question.  Being a Bachmann forum I thought there may be a chance someone here had one.

Quote from: HoModeler on January 24, 2017, 09:09:47 AM
I would stay with bachmannn's suggestion of 22R turns I would not go any lower.

Thanks...

I assume they would look odd or "Lionel-like" on anything less than 22, just wondered if it was possible. I have some Walthers cars that they suggest not be run on anything under 24, but they will.

Quote from: jbrock27 on January 15, 2017, 09:32:41 PM
Or Ebay.

Or GOOGLE Search.
Or search the Net in general.

Yes you can, and I do even when I have a LHS. It's still nice to have a real store to walk in and grab some paint or couplers.

Hello folks, been away for awhile.

Does anyone here own one of the new 89' Colorado Rail full domes? Was wondering about it being able to negotiate smaller than 22R curves. Bachmann recommends a 22R minimum, but wondering if that could be pushed to 18R?

And just curious, does it use the same coupler mechanism as the old full dome, that turned with the trucks?

Thanks in advance 

Quote from: Catt on May 21, 2014, 11:19:24 AM
Roger T.The locomotive runs very well thank you.As far as I am concerned it is well worth the investment involved for DCC. As for the Athearn's I have they all run sweet with a little TLC which even the much newer units require at times.I also have a Bachmann SD45 that will be recieving DCC.

Amen, Catt - I agree. And you know, I do wish that when folks come onto model railroad forums with a question about one of their locos, that the supposedly wiser, more knowledgeable veterans would kindly attempt to answer the question to the best of their ability - rather than simply disparage the loco as not worth their time and money.
It is - in my own personal opinion - simply bad manners and smacks of elitism.

You want better pulling power, with 'all things being equal' pick the heavier loco. Neither the track or the train you are pulling cares if it's a diesel or a steamer. I have a simple F7 diesel with a NWSL can motor and the 'super weight' that will pull right with my heavy Allegheny. Weight (traction) + good motor = pulling power.

I took two non-running Bachmann DD40s (with the pancake drive) a few years ago, cut them apart and rejoined the non-cab ends - making a fantasy DD40B. It was a fun project to see "what if?" and now makes a fun dummy running mate to my new Bachmann DD40AX. It is, of course, shorter than the original Centennial - but it still tracks well on 22"R. It will run on 18 but like the Centennial, starts looking a little odd with the overhang.

That would be great, would like to see them.