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Messages - Vidshooter

#1
HO / Bachmann motors - pros & cons
March 09, 2013, 08:33:04 PM
I have a number of Bachmann steamers. I think they are great value.

I have a 2-10-4 Santa Fe #5016 which has a Tsunami sound decoder.
I like running long trains and this engine used to slip on a grade, so I put some lead inside the engine to improve its hauling capacity.

I then found that on a grade with a big train the motor would slow down quite a lot.
Rather than slip, like other locos do, the motor would just grind to a stall if I let it.
Also, even though the loco was running really slowly, the Tsunami chuff still chuffed away at running speed.

So I deduced that Bachmann motors don't have as much torque as other motors, which I initially thought was a failing.

But then I installed a wheel cam and switch assembly, which synched the chuff to the wheel rotation.
I also removed some lead so the motor won't stall.
Now the overall effect is that the train slows right down until the motor almost stalls, then it slips. 
And you can hear the chuff slow right  down, then slip - just like the real ones.
So now I think the low torque motors are an advantage.
#2
HO / Re: J Class tender coupling
March 09, 2013, 08:04:58 PM
Thanks for all the replies.
I ended up making a rigid coupling - like all my other Bachmann.  Made it out of brass and it works fine.
#3
HO / J Class tender coupling
February 22, 2013, 08:09:06 PM
I am having trouble with my Bachmann J class engine-tender coupling.
The coupling jerks a lot when the engine rounds a curve - more specifically as it comes out of the curve.
It often throws the tender off the track.
I've checked it but  - apart from the design of the thing - I can't see anything wrong.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Is there a solution - other than making a rigid bar coupling?

Thanks
#4
HO / Tsunami?
March 26, 2012, 12:54:04 AM
Dear Mr Bach-Man,
Is the sound decoder in HO C&O 2-6-6-2  BAC 84814  a Tsunami?

Thanks
#5
HO / Dear Mr Bach-Man
March 14, 2012, 06:37:38 AM
Having produced the superb 2-8-8-4 EM1, does Bachmann have on their drawing board plans for a C&O H7 or, better still, an H7a?
I'm thinking a 2-8-8-2 should be pretty easy after the 2-8-8-4.

Thanks
#6
HO / C&O H4 vs H5
March 14, 2012, 06:31:10 AM
I have an H5, which is a great loco.

I understand the prototype H5 was a USRA, whilst the H4 was C&O design.

Can anyone tell me the difference in the models between the H4 & H5?
Are there any significant prototype differences not represented in the  models?

Thanks
#7
HO / Re: EM1 body removal
March 02, 2012, 06:08:20 PM
Bill,
You need the board because it has the connectors for the track power, but you dont need the caps and inductors.

So, bypass them:

Unsolder the motor wires from the motor and from the M+ M- pads on the board that the large socket is soldered to at the rear bottom.

Solder new wires from the motor to the M+ M- pads on the socket board.

Erik
#8
HO / Re: EM1 body removal
February 28, 2012, 08:30:05 PM
Thanks Jonathan,
Erik
#9
HO / EM1 body removal
February 28, 2012, 02:12:33 AM
Just took delivery of an EM1.  Bachmann's best engine yet.
Can anyone tell me how to get the body off the chassis?  Thanks
#10
HO / Tsunami
February 26, 2012, 02:59:23 AM
Does the Tsunami fitted to Bachmann steamers have the facility for a chuff cam?

Thanks
#11
HO / EM1 sound
February 10, 2012, 04:13:34 AM
Is the motion decoder in the EM1 a Tsunami, ie, with back emf?  Or is it one of the first gen Bachmann?

Can you explain what the sync is, referred to in the shipping post?

Thanks
#12
On30 / Shay drive shaft clips
February 08, 2011, 05:06:26 AM
I had cracked gears and obtained a replacement set.
I refitted one of the shafts OK but one of the little clips for the other shaft won't stay in place.
I have used a new clip but I can see that the amount of metal that the clip has to clip onto just wont support a firm grip of the clip.

So what do I do?  Has anyone worked out an alternative way to hold the shaft in place so the gears mesh? Because my clip is never going to clip tightly.

Thanks
Erik
#13
HO / Re: Fabulous sound in 2-10-4
February 05, 2011, 03:28:26 AM
Dear D,
I run it at about 15% max volume for all the reasons you state.
Having all that audio gain means that at low levels, you get an excellent sound.

It's like having a 500hp car.  You only use a bit of the power but its there if you want it.
#14
HO / Fabulous sound in 2-10-4
February 04, 2011, 11:49:26 PM
For anyone installing sound in a Bach 2-10-4,  here's a suggestion:

Use a Hi-bass speaker and Hi-bass speaker enclosure.  Mount the speaker in the enclosure upside down, ie, with the solder pads outwards.  That makes it easy to solder to.

Araldite the speaker into the enclosure so it is an airtight fit.

Locate the speaker/enclosure with the enclosure end down in the front of the tender over the grill. It is just the right height and is held snugly in place when you tighten the screws holding the chassis to the tender body.

I used a QSI Revolution A and the sound is seriously loud and good.

#15
On30 / Colorado Mining Co font
July 11, 2010, 07:01:58 PM
Can you tell me the font type and size on the Colorado Mining Co Shay? Thanks.