I am having problems with a standard remote Atlas Snap Switch turnout. The switch is set for the train to turn off to the right. The loco makes the turn without any problem but the rolling stock it's pulling insist on going straight.  Needless to say, this don't work so good. I don't know if it would make a difference but the switch machine is not yet wired and being operating manually. Any thoughts, anyone?

I am planning on expanding my DCC layout. I was going to add two reverse loops that send the train back and forth with a fairly short run btwn them so they will be used heavily. Would there be any danger of the auto reversing modules overheating?

I have had my first layout up and running 3 months now. During that time I have observed that if one flips a remote switch machine back and forth a few times quickly the response of the switch machine seems to get weaker and weaker. It seems to recover if left alone for a few seconds. My understanding is that remote switch machines utilize two solenoids. I am guessing that by flipping it back and forth quickly, the solenoids not being given enough time for the magnetic fields to dissipate and are working against each other until they do. Is my guess correct or am I seeing the beginning of some kind of problem?

I got a power loss problem that does not seem to fit in with the others I have read about. I have had my layout up and running now for about 2 months. I am running 2 Bachmann DCC on Board locos with a Digitrax Zephyr Controller. I haven't had any power problems until today. One of locos will run for 15 to 20 seconds and then stop dead. After sitting there for about 5 seconds it will start up again. Then it runs again for 15 to 20 and dies. This pattern keeps repeating. The other loco is having no trouble. Anyone ever seen this before?

I have my first layout up and running. All I have left to do is to wire the remote switch machines. My soldering skills are non-existent. Are there any wire connectors that are made for wire as fine as the wire on Atlas HO remote switch machines?

I have been playing with the Kadee HO Magne-matic delayed uncoupler and Bachmann Silver Series rolling stock with the original couplers. Sometimes it works. Often it doesn't. Anyone have any advice about how to make it work consistently?

I am looking at using 2' x 3' x 1/8" or 1/4" cork sheets to cover the entire top of the benchwork I am building which is 5' x 8'. I am building this above our garage where the temperature is going to go from 65 in the winter to 90 in the summer. Will I have problems with the cork expanding and buckling and/or shrinking and leaving gaps?

I am going to need a power pack for my turnout switch machines and other accessories. Any suggestions as to what I should get?

I keep seeing this. Can somebody, please, explain it?

The E-Z Command power booster comes with a cable with 2 bare ends which it says is to be used to connect for another manufacturer's DCC control system. They say connect according to the DCC controller specs. I do not see anywhere in the Zephyr Xtra manual where it addresses how to connect a power booster.

The possible connections on the Zephyr are

Jump1
Jump2
Prog A
Ground
Prog B
Rail A
Rail B
Loconet A
Loconet B

Jump1 thru Rail B the only connections for a bare wire. Loconet A & B are (don't know the proper term) the type of connection you would have for ethernet cable connection

Digitrax support has been no help. Has anyone put these two together? Please help

I am working on my first model train layout. I was planning on putting down 1/2 inch styrofoam insulation sheets on top of the plywood. However, I just got a package of Atlas track nails and see that they are only 1/2 inch long. They will never get down to the plywood. Will they anchor the track well enough in the stryofoam? I would think that they wouldn't. I didn't want to get into the cork road bed. Any suggestions, please?

I am just getting started in this hobby. My son and I are going to build out first layout this summer. I acquired the above locomotive. I know it is not DCC equipped but is it DCC ready and how do I tell? Help, Please!