I just received a brand new, sealed box Crossing Gate Kit for a "fun" layout on a family room shelf.  It is a simple dog bone.  When I installed it, I was a little surprised to see it was a mechanical gate closing system.  There is a plate between the tracks that the train presses down to close the gates.  This plate sits HIGHER than the rails.  The first loco I tried was a Kato F3A, which hit the plate, stopping dead in its' tracks.  Next, I tried an Atlas GP9, which hit the plate, but did cross.  Going the opposite direction, it barely cleared.  I rolled one box car over, and it hit, too.

This is a layout I like to just run unattended in the evening and listen to the clack clack.  This accessory was supposed to add a little interest, but I am afraid to run anything across this unattended.

There were no instructions at all beyond where to stick the cross bucks.  Is this plate height normal??  Is it adjustable??  Does anyone else have this accessory?  Does it work for you??

I just received a Spectrum FT7 from repair (replacement unit).  It had not been properly packed, and arrived with the rear coupler knocked off.  It does not appear damaged, just loose.  I have no instruction sheet, and I have been unable to find a sufficiently detailed sheet to see how to reattach it.  It is not obvious how to remove the truck to get to the coupler box.  Can someone please help???

Gordon

I am relatively new to N scale. I have purchased several cars, both new and used.  Some are Rapido, others are knuckle couplers of various brands.  Some are great runners.  Others, not so much.  I have replaced some trucks and couplers with MTL, which sometimes works.  I have added weight up to NMRA recommendations, which sometimes works. 

Any suggestions??

I also have a couple new cars which like to "lose" their wheels (one set, out of warrenty).  Is the only fix to replace the trucks???

I have some cars that roll smoothly, but have excessive drag.  What do you suggest?

Thank you in advance.  The folks on this site are truly experts and very helpful.

Gordon

I have recently gotten into N scale.  I have purchased quite a few pieces of used rolling stock. How can I tell the different manufacturers' products apart?  Most of these cars are older with Rapido couplers.  Any "words of wisdom" for changing trucks / couplers?

This board has provided excellent help in the past.  Thank you in advance.

I just got a new Prairie Steamer.  It is a beautiful little loco.  My layout has 11 ¼ curves and a short (12 inch) 2% grade.  The loco could not pull 5 Old Tyme passenger cars up the grade.  It has some trouble pulling just 3 cars up the grade.  The loco wheels spin.  Any suggestions other than running on absolutely flat track only?  Is there any way to weight the loco to improve traction?

MR. BACH MAN

I purchased a Prairie 2-6-2 last Christmas.  It ran 4 or 5 times around my small (10 feet) layout when it basically quit.  The front two drive wheels were loose on the axle, flopping all over and impossible to get on the track or keep on the track.  I returned it to Bachmann and they sent me a new one, (I think) .  Because of other track issues, I rebuilt all my track, and just completed that job today.  With much anticipation, I got my new Prairie out.  It went around the track 5 or 6 times.........  The front two drive wheels are no longer on the axle, just like the last time.

WHAT IS GOING ON?

Is this a recurring problem?  If (when) I send this in for repair AGAIN, what can I expect?  One that works or another expensive paperweight?  Do I have any other options?

All my other locos (all diesel) run fine on the new track.

I am relatively new to small scale model railroading.  I model N scale.

Is there any way to distinguish an F3 from an F7 from an F9?  I know the HP is different, but in model locos, this is a moot issue.  Are there any physical or appearance differences?  What does a passenger steam / power package look like?

Thank you in advance.

I am new to N scale. Where can I get  instructions  on how to fix or replace a coupler?